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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I've shown you what the past systems looked like. Now, I'd like to show you the current setup. It is a work in progress, but the core structure and design is in place. I lack some carpet, vinyl, and paint work, but otherwise it is all there. I also need to take more pics of the processor, and front drivers. Still, here goes:

This system is one of my most powerful and uncompromising. I initially was going to do a false floor again, but the subs I chose simply DO NOT fit any notion of stealth due to their massive size. Instead, I went for absolute sound quality while still being able to fold the passenger seat flat if need be.

Equipment (that I remembered to take a pic of):
The sub and main amp look identical in shape.


1/0 gauge wiring kit (and kitteh "Bristol")

The DIYMA R12. All hail the DIYMA. It is a god among subs.





Construction of the new false floor. This time I want something exactly factory floor height, unlike my last build.



Test Fitting

Cutting holes and starting a hinge setup.


False floor installed, and hidden nicely.


The ~1 cubic foot box built for the subs.


Subs mounted inverted, so pretty!





This was a casualty of the build...a misplaced razor blade went under my fingernail and tore the meat up underneath, then exited through the nail.


I still need to do some finish work and I also need to show you the front drivers and processor, but I'll get those later.
 

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Wow, lotsa pics!!! :thumb: I see you have a curious cat too!
Glad your casualty wasn't worse!
 

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WOW!
 

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Yikes -- all was great until the last pic. I can almost feel the pain.

What -- you weren't happy with the factory sub? :lol: I need to start building the system in the Mariner -- but it's primarily the wife's daily driver. Mine comes first! :rockon:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you want me to help model some things up, just ask. I have tons of 3D drawings with different solutions, and given enough time I can probably model just about anything for anybody here. All I need is accurate floorplan measurements and your goals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
epi4561 said:
Very nice and clean install, but honestly, I like install #2 much better.

thanks-epi
Hey there, this install isn't as elegant and sleek, I agree. This one does sound better though, that I can promise you. I will probably be swapping the subs for something more shallow, like the Stereo Integrity BM subs that are coming out. I'm considering some smaller amps to get it all to fit like #2 build was. All in due time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
epi4561 said:
fourthmeal said:
This one does sound better though, that I can promise you.
Hey, why do you think that is? Is it because of the actual equipment used, or because the subs are less confined? or a combination of the two?

thanks-epi
These subs are extremely accurate and responsive, and they are clean playing at higher frequencies than the subs I had in there before (in the stealth install.) This lets me set the crossover point higher, which helps blend in with the midbass frequencies the front drivers play. The subs prior simply couldn't do this, so the midbass range was always a little weak.

This new build also has better front components (Alpine PRO's), so this has also helped. Finally, the replaced head unit makes a big difference as well.
 

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Question: How hard is the Mazda Molex plug to work with? Is there enough room to run 2 sets of 14 or 16 guage wires or do I need to look forward to drilling to go active up front?

I ask because I still need to tear into my fiancee's 2006 Mazda Tribute. I am planning on doing a single Memphis M Class 12" subwoofer sealed under the rear cargo floor. Up front I plan on installing a pair of 6.5" Genesis Profile 16 components run active. Her head unit will be a Clarion DXZ785USB.
 

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Love the false floor. Outstanding job Fourthmeal!! :thumb:
I have a 2005 and would like to attempt the same thing. I was wondering if my 05 is the same size back there as yours and would it be possible to get step by step instructions on how you
built it, type of wood used and the measurements?
I know a lot to ask considering you don't know me but I thought I would ask.
Thanks.

Matt
AKA Hex
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hex said:
Love the false floor. Outstanding job Fourthmeal!! :thumb:
I have a 2005 and would like to attempt the same thing. I was wondering if my 05 is the same size back there as yours and would it be possible to get step by step instructions on how you
built it, type of wood used and the measurements?
I know a lot to ask considering you don't know me but I thought I would ask.
Thanks.

Matt
AKA Hex
Hey there, I added some info to your other thread about door cutouts.

I will gladly help you with a false floor install. Since so many others learn from these threads, would you make a full install thread and make me aware of it? From there we can go part by part. If you would, start with your trunk bare, and take a few pics and measurements? I am not sure if yours is the same but if not I have a solution for the other older design as well. My truck has the spare on the outside underneath. Yours I think is in the trunk. But if you have the budget I have a solution all around....
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ha, I forgot to show you guys the final product with the new sub. I never finished the amp rack w/ carpet or whatnot, primarily because I knew that in order for me to have a "permanent" system in the car, it will have to be completely under the floor. That will be system #4, coming up in a few weeks to a few months depending on how much time I have.

Here's some quick shots of the final outcome:

Doors use Alpine SPX-17PRO tweeters, mounted high on the door panel. In retrospect, I think I should have tried the A-Pillars. You get one shot at it though, so this is where they will stay -



The main front speakers were Alpine SPX-17PRO woofers, but I came across Mark at H-Audio and he made me an offer on a pair of his Ebony mid-woofers. Because they are nestled behind the door panel, here is a pic of them in the raw from H-Audio directly -



The RF 3sixty.2 processor has never really been pretty to look at, but it sits under the passenger seat on a simple suede trim board to hide the wires around it. It clears people's feet well.

The subwoofers I was using, the DIYMA R12's, well one died so I pulled the huge things out and installed my favorite spare woofer, the Eclipse SW8000. And I built a rudimentary box for it in a hurry (again, temp stuff.) Did manage to put a cute M logo on the grille though. The material you are looking at is Fleckstone sandstone color, with 6 coats of clear. The box turned out OK except for some spots where the screw holes didn't get filled in fully with bondo because I ran out. Check it out:




And the amps are still in the same spot under the factory floor.

I'll soon be working on what I hope is the final false-floor build. I went on a slight amplifier buying spree and have a bunch of amps on their way to me this week or the next. With these, I'm hoping to come up with a two or three amp solution that takes less space than the current pair of monster Phoenix Gold RSd's. With less space consumed, I'm hoping to install a pair of Stereo Integrity BM's (mentioned them in another thread for you guys that wanted something to fit tiny spots), all of this below the factory floor height.

As for the rest of the system, I am adding a high-voltage line driver that will push a hotter signal from the head unit to the processor to reduce some of the hiss I have now. With that, I think the entire front stage and processing section will be in good shape.

That's all for now.
 

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Good stuff - minus the dead sub and all. As far as mounting on the a-pillars, what direction would the tweets be pointing at? I am getting new components (as you know from my 40 PM's) and in looking at the pillars, I assume you would mount low where the piller widens and point them inwards towards the center? Just trying to see how they would mount there to get the best location.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
sinister mob said:
Good stuff - minus the dead sub and all. As far as mounting on the a-pillars, what direction would the tweets be pointing at? I am getting new components (as you know from my 40 PM's) and in looking at the pillars, I assume you would mount low where the piller widens and point them inwards towards the center? Just trying to see how they would mount there to get the best location.
You'll need to test to find out, but generally you want your tweeters to point approx. towards your rearview mirror. just hook up long test wires and play, take notes, and move them around. You can use those command adhesive strips over and over, for instance.
 
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