[Cherie]

Hi guys!
I have a 2008 Escape, 2WD, 4cyl. Basic model w 125,000 miles.
I can smell fuel above rear driver side wheel, below fuel cap, after driving some.
There are no visible leaks underneath, no performance issues, no engine light on, gas mileage is fine, etc.
A new fuel cap didn't help.

At last oil change, I asked the employee (Firestone) and he said probably bad seal on fuel pump, "common on these vehicles".
They offered their $100 diagnostic test where they drop the tank to check.
(google search reveals access to fuel pump on Escapes is under rear seat, surely they would know this?)

I looked at the fuel pump myself, and once I removed the access door, the smell got stronger.

My questions:
1. Should there be a strong fuel smell from the actual fuel pump under the access door under rear seat?
2. If this is a bad seal, could I just replace the seal? I see you can buy fuel pump seals from stores.
3. If a whole new fuel pump assembly is needed, how do I know which one? There are a few on Autozone to choose from, $190 to $340.

I don't want to pay for a part I don't need (whole assembly vs a seal), or labor I don't need (dropping tank vs rear seat removal).

Thanks.

 

[tomw]

1)There should be no fuel smell near the tank.
2)If the seal is bad, you can replace the seal separately.
3) Choose a name you recognize, alternatively choose one with a decent warranty period.

You can replace the pump alone, or the complete 'fuel sender assembly'. The latter includes the pump, mounting bracker, fuel gauge sender in once piece. If you want to replace only the pump itself, it would need to be detached from the sender, and the new one connected to the pickup, the outlet, and the electrical. It is not difficult.
A pump alone is significantly less expensive. Given the pump is readily accessible under the rear seat cushion, under a removable panel, replacing the pump is a LOT less difficult than many earlier models.
You should be getting an error code if you have a significant fuel or vapor leak. You may want to remove the panel and inspect the connections near the pump, looking for evidence of fuel leakage washing away dirt accumulations.
tom

 

[Cherie]

Thanks Tom.
I'll either look into it myself, or I'll hopefully find a shop to give me an honest quote.
(They don't like to be reminded of cheaper, easier options than the ones they provide).

 

[Cherie]

I'm pretty sure I know what's going to happen:
The shop is going to suggest I replace the whole fuel pump assembly, and not just the seal.
They will have a perfectly logical sounding reason too.
I'll ask why not just the seal, and they will have a perfectly logical answer for that as well.

 

[tomw]

Vintage, miles, likelihood of failure in the near future, labor cost, and the list goes on. To replace the seal requires removing the access cover, disconnecting the wiring, disconnecting the hoses, and removal of the 'lock ring'. That latter is the hardest for someone with limited experience. I use a large pliers to squeeze the 'ears' in the loosen direction, and even perhaps a hammer and metal shaft against the ears to break them loose. Rotate 1/4(?) turn CCW, and lift the ring out, then the sender. You'd have to wiggle the sender to get it out, and then the float arm will have to make its way through the port. Done.
Remove the seal from the groove, clean the groove, clean the local area, and the bottom of the sender unit. Install the new seal. Then install the sender, and then the ring. Position the ring so it is ready to push down on the sender and make the seal tight. Grab two ears with the pliers and tighten to move the ring CW. Attach all the stuff removed for access.
If you do the mental math, the time involved is about 15 minutes. The likelihood of the seal being the cause of the vapor(odor is from vapor) leak, or liquid leak if you can find evidence, is not very good. Most times, the seal, being protected between the tank groove area and the underside of the sending unit, is not even damaged when a sender is replaced. They just don't fail that often unless disturbed and wrinkled/etc when repairs are done.
I would look closer at the vapor recovery tubing, the fuel line(pressurized, so would likely leak or squirt liquid fuel), and the filler tube where it goes into the tank, and then back towards the gas cap area.
If you have a leak, the vapor recovery system should be throwing a code, unless the leak is very small. It uses the vapor pressure of the fuel in the tank, with ambient temperature above a given value, and closes all the vapor valves. It monitors pressure, looking for some value change over a time period. It if does not sense the pressure increase it was expecting, it sounds the alarm and posts a code. If the pressure does increase as expected, even with a small leak, it will not post a code. This all happens without the owner even knowing the system is doing self-checks.
Have you looked for evidence of fuel leakage? I would expect 'trails' where the fuel washed away the road dirt, dust, etc that accumulates on the underside. If you have none, try tugging and pushing on the vapor recovery tubes. One could be loose...
tom

 

[Cherie]

Have you looked for evidence of fuel leakage? I would expect 'trails' where the fuel washed away the road dirt, dust, etc that accumulates on the underside. If you have none, try tugging and pushing on the vapor recovery tubes. One could be loose...
tom

I have not, except checking for dripping/puddle on pavement when parked. There is none.
The shop guys looked underneath during the oil change, and one of them came back in to pretty much confirm the fuel pump seal leak.
I'd imagine if they saw something else, another leak, they would have inspected and suggested a service.

Let me say again that when I removed access door to the fuel pump, there is a stronger fuel smell. That should indicate fuel pump area, no?
Where are these recovery tubes?

Thanks for all your info!

 

[FierceDeity]

Did you ever get this resolved? I have the same issue popping up. I have also noticed that the smell only occurs when the tank is above 2/3 which leads me to believe it is the seal and not the vapor lines.

 

[vpasla1]

It's most likely the seal, there was a thread on this a while ago where a member was troubleshooting it. He tried a new gasket, seal, all with no luck. He ended up trying to get stuff to fix it but I think ultimately the solution was to replace the gas tank due to a deformity in the tank that developed over time.

It was a similar issue, only above 2/3 of a tank, or just under 3/4.

 

[tchirbrandon]

i know this is a old post but i had the same thing mine was fuel filter thats around the same area so maybe your smelling that?

 

[Mountain Escape]

i know this is a old post but i had the same thing mine was fuel filter thats around the same area so maybe your smelling that?

I appreciate your update on what solved your problem. No one else had mentioned the fuel filter.
most of the cars nowdays, they're integral to the pump, inside the tank.

welcome to the city, Brandon.
If I have not welcomed you already ( :