[escap4x4snow]

I just got a new Ford Escape 2010 4x4 with the sports appearance package. Coming from an 11year old Ford Explore with a very nice audio system that I installed, I can not stand the stock system. I was going to replace it with the following and wanted some a comments and opinions and if you think this stereo setup will work well in this SUV.

HU: Pioneer AVIC-X920BT
Fornt Speakers: Pioneer Premier TS-A502C 5-1/4" component speaker system
Rear speakers: Pioneer TS-G1343R
Sub: JL Audio CS112RG-W3v3 (already have, sounds amazing)
Amp: PPI5440 (old amp from last car, 5 channel) amp specs:
30W x 4 Channels @ 4 Ohms + 120W x 1 Channel @ 4 Ohms
60W x 4 Channels @ 2 Ohms + 200W x 1 Channel @ 2 Ohms
120W x 2 Channels @ 4 Ohms Bridged + 120W x 1 Channel @ 4 Ohms
Ford Factory Radio Interface (so that I can use all the sync features)

I have several questions:
Do you think my old amp will power these speakers ok?
Do you think that I should use the amp to power front speakers and sub only and use the HU to power the rear speakers.?
Do you think that I can use the factory speaker wire for the rear speakers or should I run new wire and if so what gauge?
What would be the best place to mount the amp?

Thanks in advance for your comments and opinions

 

[sinister mob]

To answer a few questions:

I mounted my amps under the false floor in the rear. Great if you can set them and not need to constantly get at them to adjust. For rear sound if using the HU, then factory wiring is fine. If you add power, definately run new wiring through the molex just like the fronts. It is a pain but needed IMO. Set-up sounds good although I am not fluent in audio matching. I would recommend 6.5" components up front though. I think they fit better into the 6x8 area in the doors.

 

[escap4x4snow]

Sinister,
I was looking at your trunk box(most recent build) and am interested in building something similar. What year is your escape? and is the hidden trunk area larger then the 2010's? My trunk space is small and can only really fit an amp. Did you remove the whole piece under the rug. (sorry hard to explain) So like down to the metal and is that a larger area about the whole size of the trunk. also how deep does it go? I still have 3 weeks till I get mine from the factor. (custom order for the appearance package) I just want to have everything ready for when I get it. can not wait

 

[sinister mob]

Mine is a 2010. The false floor is the large plastic "tub" that unbolts from the cargo area using 4 large bolts. Under the carpet and molded into the black plastic box is the jack hardware which has a removable fiber board top. If you have the towing package, yours may have the "wet trunk" compartment. Mine is just the false floor - no compartment. In front of the jack hardware is where I put the amps. There is about 12 inches of space (front to back) that can allow for amp placement in that gap. There is also a smaller gap between the lip of the cargo door to the jack compartment.

The recessed area under the false floor is designed to house the battery for Hybrid models. I would say it is a couple of inches deep. So overall you have a few inches of room under the plastic false floor.

 

[fourthmeal]

Plenty of room in that false floor. Ask me how I know :lol:

Anyway, I've documented all my different false floor builds here on the site and posted threads of each one. Of all the different designs I played with, you are sure to find something that suits ya.

 

[escap4x4snow]

Fourthmeal,

I have looked at your post and really like what you have done. Coming from an Exploerer to an Escape I am really hurting on loosing that much trunk space and think I am going to sell my Sub: JL Audio CS112RG-W3v3 (powerwedge)(it sounds so good and clean and can rattle me when I want it to, but it just take up to much room in the escapes little trunk).

I am not a fabricator by any means and hate fiberglassing, but I am handy. I was thinking of taking out the false floor and putting in either two pioneer TS-SW3041D or one JL 13TW5-3. I was going to use a pre fab shallow sub box. I found these Atrend 12Pst B Box Series 12-Inch Truck Box Single-Sealed, Shallow-Mount Enclosures or a Dual 12" inch Shallow Mount Subwoofer Box - Sealed Slim Sub Enclosure. I would plan on just putting down dynamat then building a casing or something that would hold the prefab box down snug and build a top similar to yours. Do you think something like this would work?

 

[fourthmeal]

Fourthmeal,

I have looked at your post and really like what you have done. Coming from an Exploerer to an Escape I am really hurting on loosing that much trunk space and think I am going to sell my Sub: JL Audio CS112RG-W3v3 (powerwedge)(it sounds so good and clean and can rattle me when I want it to, but it just take up to much room in the escapes little trunk).

I am not a fabricator by any means and hate fiberglassing, but I am handy. I was thinking of taking out the false floor and putting in either two pioneer TS-SW3041D or one JL 13TW5-3. I was going to use a pre fab shallow sub box. I found these Atrend 12Pst B Box Series 12-Inch Truck Box Single-Sealed, Shallow-Mount Enclosures or a Dual 12" inch Shallow Mount Subwoofer Box - Sealed Slim Sub Enclosure. I would plan on just putting down dynamat then building a casing or something that would hold the prefab box down snug and build a top similar to yours. Do you think something like this would work?

If you have patience and are in no rush, I do produce false floor systems and ship them out. You can ask 09Ltd, 6foot9inchmonster, and tomtcs about the stuff I've done for them if curious. Life for me is getting more busy with a kid, but I can get back in the swing of building things here in a bit. There's an amp rack I need to build for one of the guys but after that I can start yours. Its not cheap, nothing with fiberglass ever is, but everyone seems happy with the design idea which is to build an entire system under the stock deck height, so even the factory carpet goes on top. If you have only seen a couple posts, you might have missed the complete false floor installs I've done.

You can save a ton of money on deadening materials if you check the brands available vs. Dynamat. Also follow the CLD / MLV / CCF rule instead of slathering tons of mat down.