Getting Ready for Austin!!!
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we are going to be using 0 gauge wire, from the alternator to the dry cell battery i have... from there i have 2 3000 Watt Merlon MEAN1300/PRO, hook them up to 2 15s Merlon SPL series there 6000 Watts subs in a ported box, also have a bass restoration processor... ill take pictures while making the box and installing everything.. Oh yea imma be running at 1 Ohm so imma have 1500 Watt RMS to each sub...
What cha think bro???
What cha think bro???
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I'll ask the obligatory question.
How in the world are you going to get the rated power output of each one? I know "fuse-checking" an amp is a crude way to establish if the truth is being told or not, but right away something doesn't seem right.
It has 3x30A fuses on each amp. Each amp is rated RMS at 1500W, and even at 14.4V in an ideal world with the efficiency of a typical amp, this isn't possible.
Have you popped the cases and taken pics? Looks like realmofexcursion.com doesn't have any pics of the Merlon lineup yet. You could help that cause.
Rough calculation, you are going to have right around 1800W of real power RMS (both amps total), and you could probably burp 2200W or so...but you'd need to over-regulate your voltage. That much power can do a decent job, but the box is going to need a major tune peak to work with the resonance of the car. Have you measured for that resonance?
How in the world are you going to get the rated power output of each one? I know "fuse-checking" an amp is a crude way to establish if the truth is being told or not, but right away something doesn't seem right.
It has 3x30A fuses on each amp. Each amp is rated RMS at 1500W, and even at 14.4V in an ideal world with the efficiency of a typical amp, this isn't possible.
Have you popped the cases and taken pics? Looks like realmofexcursion.com doesn't have any pics of the Merlon lineup yet. You could help that cause.
Rough calculation, you are going to have right around 1800W of real power RMS (both amps total), and you could probably burp 2200W or so...but you'd need to over-regulate your voltage. That much power can do a decent job, but the box is going to need a major tune peak to work with the resonance of the car. Have you measured for that resonance?
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I'm about to pick everything up this weekend... So I'll take pics of the items asap bro... But I have not measured the resonance.. Do u know it by any chance... I'm thinking of tuning the ported box a 55 hz... What do u think should it be lower... Thanks for the advice...
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I have not measured this car for resonance because I don't build SPL systems. In the world of SQ, the goal is deep bass response but FLAT (or musical) response at the full spectrum. For this reason, I often do not port boxes in cars. The cabin gain is so great in a typical vehicle that quite literally the car is acting like a ported box itself in gain structure. In fact, most builds I work on including my own need EQ work to tune OUT the cabin gain, so it plays into the proper response anticipated on a musical system. Cabin gain is measurable...02Xcape said:
Take a calibrated mic, and go out to an open field with your sub box and the mic. But the mic 1 meter (3.3 ft) in front of the sub, and play tones (or calibrated white noise), and record the graph on a laptop of what the mic reads. Now, that's your "anechoic" or non-gained response of the sub. It can be a good idea to move the mic to another 1 meter away location, or perhaps 3 or more, if you need to create an average that is more realistic (since there may be peaks) Put the box in the vehicle, this time you can measure with your mic where people's heads are, and play the same sounds and record the response. The difference between these plots is effectively the cabin gain of the vehicle. That stays constant for that vehicle no matter what you put in it, unless you change its shape dramatically.
Another far more simple thing to do is to play a sub known to play flat and pure from a very low frequency up to a high one (say, 10hz to 150hz) without distortion, and mic that at the head location. The peak in response indicates the cabin gain structure, but a little less accurately than doing the outdoor test.
If you are tuning for SPL and SPL alone, it would be a smart idea to find approximately or very accurately the high point of this cabin gain, and then tune the box for it. If you are looking for a "streetable" box that will play loud but sound acceptable for SQ (reasonably flat and very musical), then you are after a totally different box design.
Either way, WinISD Pro is my go-to for box modeling. It is free of course. Try it if you haven't before.
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It really depends on what you are after. You won't win SPL comps with a sealed box, that's for sure. But, it might be the right thing for the right subs in the right car. Really, the sub's specs and the intended purpose of the system is what you should choose your box style from.02Xcape said:
If you want me to model the subs up, I will. I just need the detailed T/S specs from the sub you are going to use. Then I can post up graphs of the response expected from various box design.
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well imma start the box on friday... well see how it goes...
plus i love ur set up bro... great ideas man, i know u heard that a millions times already lol... but hopefully everything goes well with making the box and with the whole install... oooo yea forget to mention imma Rhino line the whole box so it wont flex on me and make it stronger... ill take pic of the whole thing... hopefully everyone likes it... should i make a vid of the system too??
plus i love ur set up bro... great ideas man, i know u heard that a millions times already lol... but hopefully everything goes well with making the box and with the whole install... oooo yea forget to mention imma Rhino line the whole box so it wont flex on me and make it stronger... ill take pic of the whole thing... hopefully everyone likes it... should i make a vid of the system too??
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LOL well hopefully everything turn out as planned... Thus is going to be my first SPL competition..futameca said:From the sounds of it I will be able to here him! :lol:RobtRoma said:If you don't see him there's a good chance you could hear him...Dasha said:Good luck!! Maybe I'll see you around!!!
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OK if this is strictly for SPL comps, build the biggest box you can, first of all. Build it double-thick, or at the very least use aggressive bracing. Rhino liner won't do squat for flexing. It does a great job at damping but that's not the same. With the box as big as it can be, then you can calculate the right tune. You'll want to use a slot loaded port or some massive PVC piping with roundover tips. Using WinISD here will help you get it spot on. Again, if you post the T/S specs of this particular sub you are using, I can help develop the right box size and port tuning you will need. It is a very precise science when you are talking ported boxes, you have a tolerance of only 4% or so before things get out of tune and tend to sound completely wrong.
The reason you start with the biggest box you can in SPL comps is that you want the box to contribute as much gain as possible. The bigger it is (up to the limit of Infinite Baffle or 3x the VAS spec), the more efficiency the box will have if tuned right.
So, you probably want to take up most of the trunk, right?
Sealed boxes have tolerances of 10% or more, and are better suited to normal or musical sound, or SQ if you prefer.
The reason you start with the biggest box you can in SPL comps is that you want the box to contribute as much gain as possible. The bigger it is (up to the limit of Infinite Baffle or 3x the VAS spec), the more efficiency the box will have if tuned right.
So, you probably want to take up most of the trunk, right?
Sealed boxes have tolerances of 10% or more, and are better suited to normal or musical sound, or SQ if you prefer.
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imma make the box at least 5 cu.ft. but with all the bracing and the subs taking up space, theres going to be about 4 to 4.2 cu. ft. left to breath... i dont have the specs of the sub as of right now... waiting on the boss man to write the stuff up... then ill get you the specs...
we are an up and coming company here in houston.. we are trying to expand...
we are an up and coming company here in houston.. we are trying to expand...
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Fourthmetal has you on the right track, from my experience so far in these trucks, big box has yielded best results, depending on how you build this you could use a builders tube and resin it to make it solid (sometimes you may not find a pvc pipe or aero port large enough) but you will also want a horn on the end, unless you go slot port. Also not sure how you are building this box but I as well as other have found in these types of suv's sub facing up, and port side firing seems to work. But slot's have worked too, I had a set up like this
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With 2 12's and 1500 watts, was able to hit 142.8 on a termlab, so spend your time on the box! tuning is KEY, in that box in the pic I can hit 140.9 on a jbl cs200.1 which is about 300 watts if I'm lucky, all the gains came from resining the box, adding corners, and spending time on the port, that was the 7th of 8 boxes we tried, took 2 weeks to get ready for that 1 show, ended up coming in 2nd, but the point here is build the box first THEN add the power,
Also when you test, make one change at a time so you know where your gain was, for example me getting out of the truck = +1 db, moving the passenger seat upright and straight to the front =+.7
GOOD LUCK!
With 2 12's and 1500 watts, was able to hit 142.8 on a termlab, so spend your time on the box! tuning is KEY, in that box in the pic I can hit 140.9 on a jbl cs200.1 which is about 300 watts if I'm lucky, all the gains came from resining the box, adding corners, and spending time on the port, that was the 7th of 8 boxes we tried, took 2 weeks to get ready for that 1 show, ended up coming in 2nd, but the point here is build the box first THEN add the power,
Also when you test, make one change at a time so you know where your gain was, for example me getting out of the truck = +1 db, moving the passenger seat upright and straight to the front =+.7
GOOD LUCK!
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Thanks everyone for helping me getting the third place throphy at the usaci slp event... i was surpirsed what db i hit... with my first event and took 3rd, and i never tested it out in houston...i was like opening a birthday present waiting to see whats inside... now i need to save money to buy the testing equipment... and go to more events...
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