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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys.
2015 Ford Escape Titanium 2.0. Roughly 86000.
Lately been experiencing a rattling/grinding noise. When I go to start the car and shift into drive, with my foot on the brake I can hear a rattling noise and if I turn the wheel to the right it gets worse (turning left is fine). When I go to drive and make a right turn I can hear a grinding noise that will continue even when I straighten the wheel and will slowly dissipate as I continue to accelerate. Once I've been driving and the car has warmed up this will no longer happen and if I go to drive the car later in the afternoon it seems to be gone so for most part I only experience this early in morning on the startup. Although I'm in Florida its been cold and I noticed it more.
I've taken it to my mechanic and he initially checked the brakes, suspension, etc. and after I had him try driving it in the morning he seems to think its something to do with the power steering wheel rack.
Anyone experience this?
I have an appointment scheduled with Ford dealership just to get a diagnosis but wanted to see if anyone here has feedback.
I seem to agree with him that it is the power steering rack but curious if it could be something else. I know its an expensive fix too!
Thanks!
 

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A rattling noise can be a loose heat shield on the exhaust pipe, you can easily crawl under the car and see if they are loose once the car cools down. A grinding could be a wheel bearing or CV axle Joint.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Got it in to dealership and small leak on right CV joint and also a motor mount that needs replaced. Hope this will fix my issue. They said wheel rack seemed fine so we will see.

Side note. I had the shifter bushing replaced for the safety recall. I noticed the automatic shift between park to drive is stiffer now which I assume is due to this fix? Also I was curious about something. I rarely use Sport but I shifted to Sport and noticed that to shift back to Drive you just need to push the shifter up to D (without pushing the front shifter button). is that normal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's normal shifter function, like slipping from drie into neutral in most auto vehicles.
Well, all the other shifter positions require pushing the locking button before shifting between gears (P-D/vice versa) but shifting from Sport mode to Drive doesn't require it and I honestly can't remember if it did before having the recall fix done. I do know the shifting feels tighter than before. Just wondering if that is how it should feel and maybe it being loose was part of the recall issue?
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
UPDATE: So after having the passenger engine mount along with the transmission mount replaced as well as the right CV axle the grinding noise disappeared altogether for a while. Just recently I noticed that if I put the car in reverse and accelerate it will make a similar grinding noise but now it sounds like its coming from the driver side. This is without turning the steering wheel. Put it in Drive, and no noise. I have had all four brakes done prior to the original grinding issue and the only other work I've had done recently is a tire rotation/balance. Any reason it would now just be in reverse without turning the wheel?

EDIT: Took it out for a test drive today and hearing it while in Drive and traveling straight too. Wandering if it has anything to do with tire rotation? Will keep you posted.
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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UPDATE: So after having the passenger engine mount along with the transmission mount replaced as well as the right CV axle the grinding noise disappeared altogether for a while. Just recently I noticed that if I put the car in reverse and accelerate it will make a similar grinding noise but now it sounds like its coming from the driver side. This is without turning the steering wheel. Put it in Drive, and no noise. I have had all four brakes done prior to the original grinding issue and the only other work I've had done recently is a tire rotation/balance. Any reason it would now just be in reverse without turning the wheel?

EDIT: Took it out for a test drive today and hearing it while in Drive and traveling straight too. Wandering if it has anything to do with tire rotation? Will keep you posted.
I have seen dust shields for the rotor bumped, when doing service, which does make a weird rubbing noise like you are describing. I have also seen a rock, or other debris caught between the dust shield and the rotor.

The only way to really find it is to get all 4 wheels off the ground, and put the vehicle in drive, does braking affect the sound at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hard to tell but as far as I can hear the brakes do not change the sound. It still sounds the same if I press the brake slowly to decelerate or if I decelerate by letting the car coast then brake. Also the grinding doesn’t really get louder as I accelerate but is more of a constant but when I roll to a stop you can hear the grinding sound spiraling down if that makes sense.
 

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Hard to tell but as far as I can hear the brakes do not change the sound. It still sounds the same if I press the brake slowly to decelerate or if I decelerate by letting the car coast then brake. Also the grinding doesn’t really get louder as I accelerate but is more of a constant but when I roll to a stop you can hear the grinding sound spiraling down if that makes sense.
Yeah, you're going to have to get all four wheels off the ground… Spinning free each tire, feeling for resistance, inspecting drive shafts… You could do it in your driveway if you have jackstands and a floor jack
and a level driveway.

don't do it under power first, it helps you isolate if it's coming from the engine

you may have something as simple as a piece of inner fender well splashguard rubbing on the tire

A lot of mechanics don't wear the correct ear protection, when you take it to the shop you are talking about, ask them if you can go out into the shop with them… Stay clear of areas they tell you...
you have to use your ears
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well should be pretty easy fro them to hear from inside when you are driving so they can’t really say it’s nothing.
One thing I noticed. Took it to a vacant lot and did some turning tests. You can hear it driving straight and hear it when turning left but nothing when turning right. I did circles each way and the sound is not there when circling right.
 

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Well should be pretty easy fro them to hear from inside when you are driving so they can’t really say it’s nothing.
One thing I noticed. Took it to a vacant lot and did some turning tests. You can hear it driving straight and hear it when turning left but nothing when turning right. I did circles each way and the sound is not there when circling right.
I don't think they will say it's nothing… I didn't mean that
Sounds like you got a wheel bearing going out, whichever side you were hearing it on. I advise to change them both at the same time if you got the dough, they have about the same longevity, when one fails, the other is not far behind, usually...
you have somebody do the work, expect around 200 per side. Alignment should not be necessary after
Your initial post about the rattling may be unrelated… There are a few parts to inspect when off the ground
Don't rule out exhaust hangers. I have heard exhaust making noise, turning one way and not the other… Rattling at idle.

hearing inside of the car really doesn't matter, except front rear/left, right
you have to shake down everything with the car up in the air to locate what is going on(meaning raise your hood, hold your phone recording over the engine bay and have a friend turn the wheel like you are describing to change the sound-try to follow the sound with your ears)

without you posting captured audio, I'm just guessing
 
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