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2007 Escape 2wd 2.3l 5spd manual
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, my daughter owns a 2007 escape,2wd, 5spd manual trans. We or I have replaced both wheel bearings and lower control arms. I'm the one she comes to when she has problems with her vehicle. I joined the forum because I know enough to get into trouble but not enough to get out of trouble.

With that said, I have searched the forums and read multiple threads pertaining to CRANK NO START. Most of them deal with the V6 models. I understand there is quite a bit of similarity between the two. Her truck has no codes and cranks, but it's a dry crank. I struck oil when I checked the spark plugs. So I changed the plugs, valve cover gasket, and the coil pack boots w/spring. I can hear the fuel pump engaging and even bypassing the fuel intera switch with no such luck. I disconnected the fuel line from the fuel filter and had my son crank the engine while I got soaked with fuel. Then I did the same under the hood, disconnected the fuel line going into the fuel, and got soaked again. I even sprayed brake cleaner into the intake with no results. I removed a spark plug and grounded it out while my son cranked the engine. I have a spark to the plug. All the fuses and relays are good. The funny thing is the car was running fine last night then this morning my daughter woke me up because it wouldn't start. Also, there was no oil in the engine. I remedy that quick thanking the car gods the engine didn't seize.

I plan to check the fuel pressure switch, pcm case, CKP, CPS, MAP sensor, and the fuel driver module as I have read in other posts. I should be able to update this post tomorrow afternoon. Is there anything else I can check? Right now she is driving my car and she ran dry of coolant. I'd rather have her ruin hers than mine, even though it seems she has.
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/2009 Limited Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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Hi Horton, your daughters name is not who, is it? ( :
Number one, never spray brake cleaner into your intake… Throttlebody, or carb cleaner only. You will damage sensors otherwise. Did you mean starting fluid? I wouldn't even use that.

Sounds like either your head gasket is shot, or the deck plane is warped
Maybe on both cars… Just spit balling here
One, or both cars likely extremely overheated at some point.

first thing I would address on her car is where the oil is going… I would not worry about starting it until then. I experienced failure of the rear main seal at 175k.

evacuating all the coolant on your vehicle is strange, but a visual inspection of both should tell you where the leak is comin from, or at least where the fluids are going.

if nothing else slip a big chunk of cardboard underneath the engine and see where the Grease stains are the next morning

I would start with a compression test of her cylinders, since you got fuel and spark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like either your head gasket is shot, or the deck plane is warped
Maybe on both cars… Just spit balling here
One, or both cars likely extremely overheated at some point.

first thing I would address on her car is where the oil is going… I would not worry about starting it until then.

evacuating all the coolant on your vehicle is strange, but a visual inspection of both should tell you where the leak is comin from

if nothing else slip a big chunk of cardboard underneath the engine and see where the Grease stains are the next morning

I would start with a compression test of her cylinders.
The car she ran the coolant dry on is our POS 04 Chevy Aveo. It's still running as she is driving it for now, but she loves to drive dad's vehicles like she stole them.

I will look into the compression test. I know the oil on her escape was escaping through the valve cover gasket. Some can be seen on the outside. The rest I found when I removed the spark plug. I added oil tonight, so we shall see if it is leaking elsewhere. All her other fluids look like they should.
 

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The car she ran the coolant dry on is our POS 04 Chevy Aveo. It's still running as she is driving it for now, but she loves to drive dad's vehicles like she stole them.

I will look into the compression test. I know the oil on her escape was escaping through the valve cover gasket. Some can be seen on the outside. The rest I found when I removed the spark plug. I added oil tonight, so we shall see if it is leaking elsewhere. All her other fluids look like they should.
The spark plug was covered with oil?
That is going to be major repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The spark plug was covered with oil?
That is going to be major repair.
Yes, it was. I don't know if sticking a rag into the cylinder to absorb the oil helped, but I also cranked the engine with the spark plug removed in hopes of purging any remaining oil. I don't know if this was smart or dumb to do on my behalf.
 

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Yes, it was. I don't know if sticking a rag into the cylinder to absorb the oil helped, but I also cranked the engine with the spark plug removed in hopes of purging any remaining oil. I don't know if this was smart or dumb to do on my behalf.
Didn't hurt anything to crank it, but there should not be oil in your cylinder… without tearing it apart, it would be pretty hard to tell whether the piston rings, or the cylinder head is the issue
unless you're wanting to tear down the top end of your motor, it would probably be easier just to swap the motor/transmission with one from a salvage yard(guessing they would pull out together)

The other big issue is oil does not compress, with the spark plug in, it could've fouled the valve train or something
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Didn't hurt anything to crank it, but there should not be oil in your cylinder… without tearing it apart, it would be pretty hard to tell whether the piston rings, or the cylinder head is the issue
unless you're wanting to tear down the top end of your motor, it would probably be easier just to swap the motor/transmission with one from a salvage yard(guessing they would pull out together)
I believe it was the valve cover gasket as I could see where oil seep from the valve cover on the back of the engine. The cylinder that had the oil in it was the one closest to that end of the valve cover seepage/leak. I will check the spark plug tomorrow and cross my fingers, toes, legs, and arms hoping that it is not the head or piston rings. If it is the head gasket, I can do that in a weekend if not a day. Piston rings though, hmmm......probably do an engine swap as you suggested, because I know it will be cheaper than the stealership.
 

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I believe it was the valve cover gasket as I could see where oil seep from the valve cover on the back of the engine. The cylinder that had the oil in it was the one closest to that end of the valve cover seepage/leak. I will check the spark plug tomorrow and cross my fingers, toes, legs, and arms hoping that it is not the head or piston rings. If it is the head gasket, I can do that in a weekend if not a day. Piston rings though, hmmm......probably do an engine swap as you suggested, because I know it will be cheaper than the stealership.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. a leaking valve cover would not put oil into your cylinder.

I would check all of your other cylinders for oil, pressure test them all. Call your local parts store, they may have a compression tester you can borrow.

A tool you may only use once in your life.
 
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Reactions: horton.brickman2000

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. a leaking valve cover would not put oil into your cylinder.

I would check all of your other cylinders for oil, pressure test them all. Call your local parts store, they may have a compression tester you can borrow.

A tool you may only use once in your life.
Will do. :cry: We shall see the outcome hopefully tomorrow. If anything I will get a new toy and an excuse to go to Harbor Freight. The wife grounds me from there so we can pay our bills lol.
 

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Will do. :cry: We shall see the outcome hopefully tomorrow. If anything I will get a new toy and an excuse to go to Harbor Freight. The wife grounds me from there so we can pay our bills lol.
If you decide to dig deeper into it, you will need a machinist straight edge, or a carpenters level to make sure that the cylinder head is in plane. I could see a warped head causing both the cylinder oil leak, and the valve cover leak.

either way, if you pull the cylinder head you will know exactly how the oil is getting into the cylinder.
I don't know if you have a magnet pick up tool, but while the plug is out I would definitely stick that down in the spark plug hole, hopefully you don't get any metal debris sticking to it. That would be an indicator of a damaged piston ring. I would also check the oil pan with a strong magnet you can walk around the bottom of the pan, then over to the drain plug hole to see if there is any metal debris there

if the head is warped, find a local machine shop and see if they can mill the head for you. It would be cheaper than purchasing new.(some are not machinable because of valve clearances)

You will still need to address the overheating issue that caused the head warp though...

good luck man, don't let it be a can of worms… Know when to stop! ( :
 

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And congratulations for treating your daughter to the joy of driving(racing?) a manual transmission… I call it a modern day anti-theft device. lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
And congratulations for treating your daughter to the joy of driving(racing?) a manual transmission… I call it a modern day anti-theft device. lol
The car all my children get to drive when they get their permit is the 2004 Chevy Aveo. It is a 5-speed manual trans. and a car that if it gets into a car accident, I won't get angry about it. My daughter bought the escape with her own money which is why I'm trying everything to get it back on the road. Since she doesn't have the money to get another vehicle. Not to mention she is going to attend APP State this summer.
 

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First and foremost, you need to check for codes. After codes, look at the data. Coolant temp and air intake temp must match on a cold engine. Look for fuel pressure PID KOEO.

My best guess, your Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM) is failing. Tap the module with a screwdriver while cranking. Disconnect the connector from the module, look clean?

Check for codes first!

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Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Circle
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I made sure every spark plug had spark, which it does. I know I'm getting fuel cause it's being pushed out through the spark plug hole; one of them even ignited. I then did the compression test............all four cylinders have ZERO compression. Does this indicate a broken timing chain or camshaft or something else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I removed the valve cover and had my son crank the engine. the timing chain and camshafts are intact. I'm going to use a scope camera to inspect the pistons before I pull the head. I may post pics afterwards
 

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="horton.brickman2000, post: 598929, member: 162047"I then did the compression test............all four cylinders have ZERO compression. Does this indicate a broken timing chain or camshaft or something else?
Did the compression tester come with instructions, are you cranking the engine watching for the needle to move?
Or is your son turning the crank by hand while you watch the gauge?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
[QUOTE="horton.brickman2000, post: 598929, member: 162047"I then did the compression test............all four cylinders have ZERO compression. Does this indicate a broken timing chain or camshaft or something else?
Did the compression tester come with instructions, are you cranking the engine watching for the needle to move?
Or is your son turning the crank by hand while you watch the gauge?
[/QUOTE]
My son actively cranked the engine with the key in start, clutch pressed, and wide-open throttle. The needle didn't budge. I tested the compression gauge on another vehicle just in case it was a faulty compression kit from harbor freight.
 
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