Nothing wrong with a 'halogen' colour. Lower colour temperatures will have better penetrating power for poor weather conditions.
HID Install Guide
14
Received my kit today that I ordered on Ebay, rushed home to install it. Total time, 90 minutes to install, JPark's comment THREAD really sums up the process. My advice, if you're against drilling holes, this is not for you (2005+). You will have to drill a hole (mine ended up being 3/4" to fit all the connectors through) in the light door, to run power OUT to the ballast, and then back IN from the ballast to the bulb. There is no way to stuff the ballast into the light assembly...
I purchased 5000k bulbs, 4000k-5500k is the most functional range of HID available. Lower than 4000k and you get a "goldish" with lower lumens (brightness) and above 6k you go from blues to purples, each reducing in brightness. Aesthetically it looks cool, but visibility at night is of the utmost importance to me. Your average OEM runs in the 4000k-5500k range.
Contents of kit:
2 Digital Ballasts
2 Electrical connector
2 HID Bulbs (H11, low beam @ 5000k)
2 Ford light connector
2 Double sided connectors
12 zip ties
User Manual
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Up until now, I had never actually taken a look at the headlight assy, so this is a shot. The silver bar that runs across pushes down and that whole back side comes off, and "unseals" the back side of the headlight. This pic is the only confusing one, the top of the shot is the Front of the car...
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This is the electrical connector that plugs into the factory headlight connector, and brings power IN to the ballast.
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This part took about 20 minutes to plan out how I wanted to run the cables. The bulb has connectors on it, both ends of the electrical connectors has connectors, and the "out" of the digital ballast has connectors. I decided to connect the bulb outside in the engine compartment (all connectors are sealed) and the electrical connector inside the headlight assy. I drilled a 3/4 hole in the center where i didn't effect any of the "ribbing" molded on both sides.
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Here is the HID bulb installed, and you can see the factory connector that will be used later. Be sure to cover the bulb opening in the light assy. with tape or something to avoid getting dust or debris in there.
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Here I have plugged the 12v (going to ballast) into the factory connector.
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Another shot
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I completed the connection, and this portion will reside INSIDE the light housing. Black is ground, and Red is 12v. You can confirm this by checking voltage with the lights on to be safe.
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I have re-installed the rear panel of the light housing. Red/Blue in the background is the HID Bulb will connect to ballast power out, and the Red/Black in the foreground is 12v electrical power to ballast power in.
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Here's a shot of the bulb before I installed it on the right side. I managed to not have to unhook the battery, but it is definately tight behind there!!
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Here is the right side completed:
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I got a carried away and forgot to take pics, so I'll do my best to sum it up. At this point you've got both headlights installed, and you have 12V power ready to plug into the ballast for power in. You've also got the bulb connectors ready to hook up to ballast power out. Nothing is connected to the ballast as of yet.
I took the time to check voltage at this point - I turned on the vehicle and turned on the lights. I used a digital multimeter on each 12V power TO ballast in and I got 14v, which is what you should have with the car on. If the car is off, you'll end up with somewhere around 12, if it's lower than 11, you may want to have your battery charged and/or replaced ... Acceptable input voltage is listed on the ballast, 9v - 35v. I switched off lights, plugged power INTO the ballasts, connected the bulbs (they're idiot proof, you can't do it backwards) and turned lights on....
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HID LIGHTS!!
You can see the ballasts on the far left and right sides, about halfway inbetween the firewall and the radiator. I have them in a spot, but I haven't found a "perfect" spot for them as of yet. I'll work on that one and update this post later tonight probably.
I had to have a pic with the cycle too...
![]()
OOOK, so that is the functional portion. Unfortunately I ran into a snag, which I recalled reading a comment about. THREAD JPark talks about pulsed power. I guess that the 2007's can be included - I have the flicker problem, for several seconds, and then the lights ignite and stay lit. I burned them in for 15 minutes, and then had to run to the Mall of America for something, so they were on for about 35 minutes. I thought it might be a one time thing, but I had the same issue when I started them on the way home. It kicks off the computer lamp checker, and I have to clear that message from the console. I don't want to damage the bulbs, it's bad for them to flicker from what I have read. Fortunately I can revert to stock in about 10 minutes if I need to until I find a solution... Anyone with ideas on what to do let me know. I re-checked voltage at that point, and the results were the same as before.
I did come across some valuable information that would be useful for this thread, as my manual did not have troubleshooting tips:
Troubleshooting 1
Troubelshooting 2
I purchased 5000k bulbs, 4000k-5500k is the most functional range of HID available. Lower than 4000k and you get a "goldish" with lower lumens (brightness) and above 6k you go from blues to purples, each reducing in brightness. Aesthetically it looks cool, but visibility at night is of the utmost importance to me. Your average OEM runs in the 4000k-5500k range.
Contents of kit:
2 Digital Ballasts
2 Electrical connector
2 HID Bulbs (H11, low beam @ 5000k)
2 Ford light connector
2 Double sided connectors
12 zip ties
User Manual
Up until now, I had never actually taken a look at the headlight assy, so this is a shot. The silver bar that runs across pushes down and that whole back side comes off, and "unseals" the back side of the headlight. This pic is the only confusing one, the top of the shot is the Front of the car...
This is the electrical connector that plugs into the factory headlight connector, and brings power IN to the ballast.
This part took about 20 minutes to plan out how I wanted to run the cables. The bulb has connectors on it, both ends of the electrical connectors has connectors, and the "out" of the digital ballast has connectors. I decided to connect the bulb outside in the engine compartment (all connectors are sealed) and the electrical connector inside the headlight assy. I drilled a 3/4 hole in the center where i didn't effect any of the "ribbing" molded on both sides.
Here is the HID bulb installed, and you can see the factory connector that will be used later. Be sure to cover the bulb opening in the light assy. with tape or something to avoid getting dust or debris in there.
Here I have plugged the 12v (going to ballast) into the factory connector.
Another shot
I completed the connection, and this portion will reside INSIDE the light housing. Black is ground, and Red is 12v. You can confirm this by checking voltage with the lights on to be safe.
I have re-installed the rear panel of the light housing. Red/Blue in the background is the HID Bulb will connect to ballast power out, and the Red/Black in the foreground is 12v electrical power to ballast power in.
Here's a shot of the bulb before I installed it on the right side. I managed to not have to unhook the battery, but it is definately tight behind there!!
Here is the right side completed:
I got a carried away and forgot to take pics, so I'll do my best to sum it up. At this point you've got both headlights installed, and you have 12V power ready to plug into the ballast for power in. You've also got the bulb connectors ready to hook up to ballast power out. Nothing is connected to the ballast as of yet.
I took the time to check voltage at this point - I turned on the vehicle and turned on the lights. I used a digital multimeter on each 12V power TO ballast in and I got 14v, which is what you should have with the car on. If the car is off, you'll end up with somewhere around 12, if it's lower than 11, you may want to have your battery charged and/or replaced ... Acceptable input voltage is listed on the ballast, 9v - 35v. I switched off lights, plugged power INTO the ballasts, connected the bulbs (they're idiot proof, you can't do it backwards) and turned lights on....
HID LIGHTS!!
You can see the ballasts on the far left and right sides, about halfway inbetween the firewall and the radiator. I have them in a spot, but I haven't found a "perfect" spot for them as of yet. I'll work on that one and update this post later tonight probably.
I had to have a pic with the cycle too...
OOOK, so that is the functional portion. Unfortunately I ran into a snag, which I recalled reading a comment about. THREAD JPark talks about pulsed power. I guess that the 2007's can be included - I have the flicker problem, for several seconds, and then the lights ignite and stay lit. I burned them in for 15 minutes, and then had to run to the Mall of America for something, so they were on for about 35 minutes. I thought it might be a one time thing, but I had the same issue when I started them on the way home. It kicks off the computer lamp checker, and I have to clear that message from the console. I don't want to damage the bulbs, it's bad for them to flicker from what I have read. Fortunately I can revert to stock in about 10 minutes if I need to until I find a solution... Anyone with ideas on what to do let me know. I re-checked voltage at that point, and the results were the same as before.
I did come across some valuable information that would be useful for this thread, as my manual did not have troubleshooting tips:
Troubleshooting 1
Troubelshooting 2
1 - 2 of 21 Posts
1 - 2 of 21 Posts
