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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to replace the ignition switch housing , part # 9L8Z-3511-A on my 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid. I have some questions about the removal process. Do I remove the housing then remove the key tumbler so I can put it in the new housing ? Do I put the key tumbler in the new housing before I install it or after ? After the car kept getting harder and harder to start and having to push in very hard on the key, I found out that something inside this housing wears out. At first I thought it was the ignition switch ( part # CS804) on the LEFT side of the steering column but found out it 's not the problem. Right now I have disconnected the ignition switch from the housing and I'm starting the car by turning that ignition switch with a screwdriver and the key in the RUN position. It was only after DAYS of research on the internet that I found the answer to this problem. The ignition switch housing is on order, hoping to get some help on the replacement process on this site :? If anyone can guide me through it step by step, that would be great :yahoo:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Buy using Google and Youtube, I figured out how to replace the ignition switch housing. I used a cutoff disk on my Dremel tool to make a slot for a screwdriver in the top of the anti - theft bolt rather than try to use a small chisel on the side of it like the directions suggested. I replaced it with a hex - head bolt. :woohoo:
 

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Hey Kimpossible! It's probably IMPOSSIBLE that you'll ever see this...but I thought I'd try...

2010 Mariner Hybrid. Over the last few months, the car doesn't usually "start" on the first push of the key- the MIL stays illuminated and the bottom right green light thing (ready to drive light?) doesn't illuminate. Usually I can push it a second time and it "starts". Just now it took a third attempt. Does this sound like the issue you were encountering? How did you ascertain it was the Ignition Switch Housing? Thanks!
 

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If you push the key in towards the middle of the column while turning it and it works that usually indicates the entire ignition lock module that needs replaced, and not just the cylinder.

 

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Omg
I'm new here on the site and was just going to post a similar question.
2010 v6
When truck sits in the hot sun for more than a few hours.... the ignition on the steering column gets hot and the components inside expand and will not allow key to start the engine. I guess the heat expansion dosent allow to make proper contact? ( my theory)
I found that by laying ice packs on the steering column and around key slot... it cools it down enough to start it.
This has happened to me three times now.
 

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If you push the key in towards the middle of the column while turning it and it works that usually indicates the entire ignition lock module that needs replaced, and not just the cylinder.

Thanks! Came back to follow-up post that I had found this exact video. Sure wish I knew why my notification emails for this site aren't working- probably would've saved me some digging!

And yes, this is in fact my issue. I should've know just to search FordTechMakuLoco to begin with. The amount of videos he has is utterly amazing- and the videos themselves are also amazingly detailed. I ordered the Dorman replacement- it claims to have an improved design that eliminates this problem (although if I still have this car when a new OEM would again wear out it means something went very, very wrong in my life!). I think I'm gonna buy some FordTechMakuLoco swag just to support him and show my appreciation.

On another note, it seems like many, many, MANY people experience these same recurring problems with our 2008-2012 vehicles. I wonder if the car is just that much crap, or is it just a statistical anomaly of sorts since so many of the vehicles were sold and are still on the road?? PCM- ABS Module- ignition lock module- I could go on and on...
 
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