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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello fellow Escape owners,

Have any of you ever installed a Joying Head Unit in the 2nd gen Escape (mine is 2011)?

What should have been straight forward process is turning out to be wiring nightmare. There are more wires on the generic Ford harness they provided than on the audio port for my stock head unit. Joying support is of course no help, contrary to what the word on the street is about them. They seem to be pretending that they don't know what the problem is.

I have 4 wires (described by Joying as Brown/Key1, Black/Ground, Orange/Back, Blue/Ant), two of which need to be connected to wires on pins 18 and 19 on the stock audio connector to go to the steering wheel control (diagram attached). I have ruled out the Blue/Ant wire, and any combination of the remaining three will produce errors on the dash and/or relay click sounds.

I attach pics of the connectors.

Any help will be appreciated!

- George
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi George, Welcome to the city

what exactly are you trying to do, splice harnesses together, make the audio controls on the steering wheel work?
What are the wires you were trying to connect supposed to do. have you tried operating the radio controls from the steering wheel yet?

if you have more wires that are on the stock unit, I would assume the others are simply not used- Like the blue power antenna wire.
I would try disconnecting your battery, installing the head unit, then reconnecting the battery. you may have to relearn a module otherwise.
The problem is that the ACC wire coming out of the car that should have 12V when the car is running has no power.
I went to my local dealership an they pulled up the wiring diagram for my VIN and there are actually more wires on my actual car then what the diagram says it should have. They are stumped as well. The white/blue and grey/yellow wires from the above pics (I assume they are the SWC wires are not even on their diagram for my car. It's a puzzle!

The goal at this point is just to get the new hear unit powered up, and THEN get the steering wheel buttons to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I ended up tapping into F47 (30A) and powering it from there. It's proper Accessory Delay power, so it works. I also tried F41 (15A) which also works but doesn't supply enough power all the time - sometimes when the AC kicks in the hear unit goes to sleep for couple of seconds and until the power draw drops.

Now to solve why only 5 of the 8 SWC buttons work. So strange. What an experience with Joying unit!
And then there is the non-functioning CANBUS box they provided. But I don't really need that to use the unit, so I might just forget that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OK, that was helpful. Thanks.
I get the principle now. What I didn't get from that forum post was where I can find the SYNC module and where the two steering wheel buttons would be on it, but I will continue to dig.

Do you think that bridging the "sync" wires with the "media" buttons going into the radio harness would work? Just taking the two "sync" wires before they get to the SYNC module and marrying them with the two "media" wires going into new head unit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I read your post here Where is the Sync 54-Pin Connector Located 2010 Escape which was helpful as well. I will tap the "sync" wires at steering column, as suggested.
Do you see a reason to keep the SYNC module in the car at all at this point?


Also - would the button presses from the three "sync" buttons be traveling on the can bus? I have a can bus decoder but I have not gotten it to work yet. Or are those buttons wires directly into the SYNC box and are not on the can bus?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Any idea where the SYNC module actually is? I googled around but there isn't much info on this for the 2nd gen Escape. I would rather tap the wires for the 3 buttons there, and remove the module, than to mess with the steering wheel column wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Any idea where the SYNC module actually is? I googled around but there isn't much info on this for the 2nd gen Escape. I would rather tap the wires for the 3 buttons there, and remove the module, than to mess with the steering wheel column wires.

EDIT: never mind, I found it, I have to remove the central console.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So I did get the SYNC module out. I also have access to the steering wheel column connectors.

I can't find out which wires are the ones for the three "sync" buttons. You said it would be just two buttons, but searching around for the diagram for the 54 pin connector what I am seeing that the buttons may be separate. Two wires per button going into the SYNC module. Such as this (fits 2013 Escape, mine is 2011): Ford (2013-2016) Sync 1/2 APIM module pinout diagram @ pinoutguide.com. Any thoughts?

I am trying to avoid taking the airbag out to actually look at the buttons.

I attach images of my connectors.

Thanks.



Finger Thumb Electronic engineering Gadget Electrical wiring

Finger Electrical wiring Electronic engineering Computer hardware Cable

Circuit component Electrical wiring Electronic component Adapter Electronic engineering
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have been all over it with my multimeter. Without knowing which pair to look for the number is combinations is huge. I tried pretty much everything that sounded remotely related to what I am looking for, based on the pin out on that link I sent.

Is the clock spring connector the one on top or bottom of the steering wheel column? They are both 16 pin.

Not relying on wire colors too much. They differ from year to year. Pin out diagrams are always the best. :)

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
OK, so once again that was great info. Thanks. They really ended up being wires 14 and 15!

So now my new head unit is detecting the button presses from the 3 sync buttons. I spliced them together with the SCW audio wires going into the new head unit. HOWEVER, a new issue arose - two of the three buttons have the exact same resistance values when pressed as two of the 5 audio buttons! So for all the work I gained just one new button.
I'm thinking I could connect a resistor in one of the sync wires, changing the value to something new. If the unpressed value is ~1kOhm and pressed around 500Ohm or so I could put like a 100Ohm resistor in there. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The exact values ultimately don't matter, I think. As long as the values all differ from each other on all 8 buttons.
I have a bunch of 20 Ohm 1/4W resistors, if one doesn't work I can always put several of them in series. There is enough room between the 5 media buttons values in the table you attached that I should be able to hit the empty space by adding 20 or 40 Ohms.

Will report back!.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
So I have bad news - it did not work. I have tried putting multiples of 20 Ohms, up to 100 Ohms, on both the SYNC buttons and the AUDIO buttons (not at the same time obviously). So that's 10 different combinations. In 9 cases the SYNC buttons were close enough to the AUDIO buttons that they were still triggering the AUDIO buttons actions. In one case only two SYNC button were mirrored, and one of them worked separately, but I didn't make note of the resistor value and I am just too tired of it to go through all that again. Without the resistance values table for the SYNC buttons and figuring out what resistor values I should use, on paper, there's just no way to do this. Moving the two resistance value ranges up and down against each other like this blind just doesn't work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
I may do that at some point. I don't want those 3 buttons that badly right now.

Now I have a different issue. After I put everything together the cruise control buttons do not work. I checked every connection 3 times, everything is connected. All fuses are fine. I can't figure it out. The audio buttons on the other side of the steering wheel work with my new head unit.

I did at one point graze 12V 30A circuit to ground (my temporary wire connection slipped 🤦🏻‍♂️), just for a brief moment, while the engine was running. The engine RPMs lowered for a moment, but then everything seemed to be normal. I can't be sure if the cruise control didn't work before, or stopped working after that. Everything else works fine.

Thoughts? What can I try?
 
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