[dwightbresemann]

So I took a look at my service information, and you may be correct. Almost half the vehicles built had drums in the rear. There is an adjustment or service which needs to carried out from time to time. As the brake shoes wear, the built-in self-adjuster need to take up the slack. This adjuster only works in reverse while tapping the brakes, or sometimes they don't work at all.

Get a couple or cans of brake clean and some cardboard. While at the store, buy some brake shoes, just in case you need them. You can always return them if not needed. Some stores well lend/rent the brake spring tools also. Watch some YouTube videos on how to properly set the shoes to the drums using the self-adjusters.

Item #5 is the self-adjuster. You don't have many springs to deal with.

 

[Mountain Escape]

So I took a look at my service information, and you may be correct. Almost half the vehicles built had drums in the rear. There is an adjustment or service which needs to carried out from time to time. As the brake shoes wear, the built-in self-adjuster need to take up the slack. This adjuster only works in reverse while tapping the brakes, or sometimes they don't work at all.

Get a couple or cans of brake clean and some cardboard. While at the store, buy some brake shoes, just in case you need them. You can always return them if not needed. Some stores well lend/rent the brake spring tools also. Watch some YouTube videos on how to properly set the shoes to the drums using the self-adjusters.

Item #5 is the self-adjuster. You don't have many springs to deal with.

My Vin number says I have four wheel disc, but I have drums in the rear on my 2009.

I think setting an emergency brake regularly will move the adjuster too, unless seized.

 

[10Escapeguy]

If you're unfamiliar with drum brakes, make sure you only take one side apart at a time. That way you have reference to look at while you're reassembling. Or take a bunch of pictures.

Thats a great idea to take pictures for reference thanks!

 

[10Escapeguy]

So I took a look at my service information, and you may be correct. Almost half the vehicles built had drums in the rear. There is an adjustment or service which needs to carried out from time to time. As the brake shoes wear, the built-in self-adjuster need to take up the slack. This adjuster only works in reverse while tapping the brakes, or sometimes they don't work at all.

Get a couple or cans of brake clean and some cardboard. While at the store, buy some brake shoes, just in case you need them. You can always return them if not needed. Some stores well lend/rent the brake spring tools also. Watch some YouTube videos on how to properly set the shoes to the drums using the self-adjusters.

Item #5 is the self-adjuster. You don't have many springs to deal with.

View attachment 2487

Ok thank you and thanks again for the schematic. In going to get a brake drum tool set from harbor freight it's only 8 bucks and seems to have some specialty tools that might make the job easier. Planning on getting new brake shoes and replacing either way so I can have a mileage stamp for all 4 brakes. My daughter will be taking over this car when she heads off to college and I want it to be in the best shape I can, especially safety equipment. She'll have all new brakes and all new tires when she leaves and all fluids changed. It has 140,000 miles on it now so if I can get it to 180/200000 I'll be happy enough lol

 

[Mountain Escape]

Ok thank you and thanks again for the schematic. In going to get a brake drum tool set from harbor freight it's only 8 bucks and seems to have some specialty tools that might make the job easier. Planning on getting new brake shoes and replacing either way so I can have a mileage stamp for all 4 brakes. My daughter will be taking over this car when she heads off to college and I want it to be in the best shape I can, especially safety equipment. She'll have all new brakes and all new tires when she leaves and all fluids changed. It has 140,000 miles on it now so if I can get it to 180/200000 I'll be happy enough lol

My friend, I do drum brakes with a phillips screwdriver, and a big pair of straight split jaw pliers. You don't need special tools, you just have to disconnect your battery so you don't blow out a wheel cylinder.
The only PITA that I have experienced is when the new shoes do not come with the parking brake lever, and you have to swap it from the old shoe

If the drum does not readily slide off, do not be afraid to hit it with a BFH, I put the Lugnuts back on so don't screw up any threads beating with the hammer, and lube the axle-drum bore with light grease when you put it back on
Most times you have to manually set a new adjuster so there is the slightest drag when re-installing the drum.
If the adjuster does not spin freely, a brake adjuster kit is only like 20 bucks per side. If the adjuster is frozen with corrosion, I would replace brake hardware kit. Replacing all hardware could be as much as 50 bucks per side.

The nicest thing about rear drum brakes, you don't have to bleed after service. ( :

Watch a couple of YouTube videos

 

[dwightbresemann]

Vin mismatch, Forscan won't fix a mismatch. You have to find someone with Ford's IDS. This will fix the mismatch.

View attachment 2482

I wanted to update my post about a VIN mismatch (B2900). I was browsing Forscan this morning and I found this post where the poster fixed his VIN mismatch. Ford ABS Controller Diagnostic Help - DTC B1342-EO - FORScan forum

On Forscan, my profile name is "hueypilot".

 

[Mountain Escape]

On Forscan, my profile name is "hueypilot".

Do you fly hueys, Dwight? Thats cool

 

[10Escapeguy]

I wanted to update my post about a VIN mismatch (B2900). I was browsing Forscan this morning and I found this post where the poster fixed his VIN mismatch. Ford ABS Controller Diagnostic Help - DTC B1342-EO - FORScan forum

On Forscan, my profile name is "hueypilot".

Well that's good news! I called the only local Ford dealership yesterday to get a quote to flash the ABS module and they wanted 200 dollars so thanks for saving me money friend! The parts are slowly trickling in the pads and rotors today hopefully the rest by Friday and then this weekend I can start to work. I'll keep this thread updated with pics as I go in case in the future someone has this same issue and comes across this while desperately searching Google like I was doing. LOL

 

[dwightbresemann]

Do you fly hueys, Dwight? Thats cool

I flew the UH-1H for 20yrs in the US Army. Start out as fixed wing crew chief, OV-1 Mohawk, and two years later I was flying Hueys. Flying was fun, the Army sucked

 

[10Escapeguy]

I was a 13 Romeo in the Army then cross trained to 13 Foxtrot, got out in 2011 as a SSG(P) after 8 years, looking back kind of wish I had stayed in as my next promotion to SFC was in the bag due to my NCOERs being 5/5 and promote ahead of peers and I would be retired at this point but after 4 deployments including a 15 month one that was extended two weeks before we were supposed to fly back home I was done. No real regrets though because if I had stayed in I would have just been continuing to feed the Jody's with my ex-wife and wouldn't have the family I have today.

 

[Mountain Escape]

I flew the UH-1H for 20yrs in the US Army. Start out as fixed wing crew chief, OV-1 Mohawk, and two years later I was flying Hueys. Flying was fun, the Army sucked

Thank you for your service my friend

 

[10Escapeguy]

Today is the day finally to at least get half the work done I wanted to complete. We need the vehicle up quick for next week so I had to narrow down parts. I'm replacing the passenger hub assembly, new pads, new rotor and new brake line. I am also attaching a short 20 second YouTube video of the noise so everyone can get a better idea of what I'm talking about with the moaning/grinding/creaking noise. If anyone has heard this noise before and has a fix please share! I'm going to clean the crap out of the caliper bracket and lube it all up and then bleed the brakes. If this doesn't fix it then I'm going to replace calipers.

This is the video.

brake creak 2010 escape

youtube.com

The sound comes from both sides but when the camera pans over the hood the passenger side is 3xs as loud.

 

[10Escapeguy]

Updating as I go along and find more things so that hopefully this helps others at a future date.

This is my caliper, the piston seems excessively pushed out which I'm assuming is caused by my brake line as it's hard as a rock.

This is my rotor, I'm pointing at bluish areas that are sporadically around the entire rotor, this to me looks like an excessive heat issue like on a flywheel. There are 4 spots that are pronounced and a couple of smaller areas as well that have been blued. If I'm wrong in my assumption please let me know!

These are my pads. These pads are relatively new changed about two oil changes ago so about 6000 miles. The one on the left is from the backside of the caliper and is almost twice as worn down as the front. Again, this is either caused by a sticking caliper piston or a bad brake line. Correct?

Old hub next to the new one. The old one has a grinding noise when I spin it and is a bit stiff to actually turn not really hard but significantly more power needed over the new one.

Next step is getting new hub put on and torqued down then I'm going to clean the caliper bracket as best I can with a wire brush and replace the hose. I'll update once I get that done.

 

[dwightbresemann]

So, do you think the noise was a bad bearing?

 

[10Escapeguy]

So, do you think the noise was a bad bearing?

I think I had multiple issues, my thought train as of right now is bad brake hose caused a sticking caliper, caused way to much heat to build up and it fried my bearing. The groaning is hopefully from the sticking caliper although it's weird it's both sides but much more pronounced on the passenger. The bearing was definitely bad once I tested it off the vehicle. I now have the hub back on a torqued to spec and am starting to work on the caliper brake to clean it up and then I'll lube it all up and reinstall then attack the brake hose. The hub nut was a bear and my poor torque wrench only goes to 150 and factory wants 215! So I just got a long breaker bar after maxing out my torque wrench and gave it another half turn around. I'll have it checked by a buddy later who has a torque wrench that goes to 300 for his diseal mechanic business.

 

[smario259]

Looks like a frozen caliper problem. The creaking noise video shows pads pressing on the rotor because of a frozen piston. I've had that noise, but on a rear disc. Get a new caliper, a kit with the bracket and the rest of the hardware. Since the rotor has blued, the rubber seals in the piston are possibly toasted.

 

[10Escapeguy]

Looks like a frozen caliper problem. The creaking noise video shows pads pressing on the rotor because of a frozen piston. I've had that noise, but on a rear disc. Get a new caliper, a kit with the bracket and the rest of the hardware. Since the rotor has blued, the rubber seals in the piston are possibly toasted.

Thats what it looks like to me as I went further into the project. I went to squeeze the caliper piston back down and it wasn't budging. I then after a duh moment undid the banjo bolt for the brake bleeder and nothing came out not even a dribble, then once it was fully removed still not a drop. I then clamped down again on the caliper and dark orange fluid shot out and the caliper piston went down smooth. I can't afford a new caliper so I'm just going to finish up with what parts I do have, I've put in the new brake hose and lubed up the ears on the pads and the grooves where they sit with some silicon caliper grease and lubed all over the slide pins. Now I'm taking a break and going to see what happens when I try to bleed the brakes. I'm hoping that the caliper was just stuck due to the bad brake hose but I'm expecting to need a new caliper which I won't be able to afford for a couple of weeks when my new job starts. Sucks but that's the game I suppose lol.

 

[10Escapeguy]

Well after getting everything buttoned up and flushing out all the old brake fluid and then bleeding the caliper took it for a quick drive around the block and the rotor was smoking again. Popped the tire off and removed the caliper and it was right back to before mostly pushed out. Guess it's time for a new caliper. Ugh.

 

[10Escapeguy]

Well I was able to procure some money and got a new brake caliper and all new hardware. Unfortunately having the same issue with the caliper not releasing and the piston being stuck almost fully extended. The only thing I can figure is the master cylinder is bad but I'm open to suggestions. I'm going to try to bleed the brakes one more time just for that one last hail Mary but I'm not hopeful.

 

[10Escapeguy]

I pumped up the brakes and this is what each side shows afterwards. Only the passenger side is dragging but it's ironically even worse now with the new brake hose, new caliper, and new hub assembly.

Passenger slide pin exposure after pumping up brakes

Passenger caliper piston after pumping up brakes

Driver slide pin exposure after pumping brakes (about half as much as passenger)

Driver caliper piston after pumping up brakes

So please help I can't afford to throw any more parts at this thing. The parts I've replaced so far did need replacing but now I'm stuck as I've never encountered this before where replacing the caliper and the brake hose didn't fix a stuck caliper piston before any direction would be greatly appreciated!