[10Escapeguy]

OK last update probably for the night. So I on a whim with the caliper as it is opened the bleeder valve and nothing came out of the new caliper. The only way I can get fluid to come out is to take the caliper off and with the brake bleeder open using a clamp to push the piston in and then fluid shoots out. I don't know if this is a symptom but it's at least a reference point. It's almost like the fluid is getting blocked from releasing back up into the line, the hose is new so it has to be beyond that. Could it be the abs distro box where the line connects into? Or is this still looking like a master cylinder or even brake booster problem?

When I crack open the driver side it dribbles out like I'm used to seeing from calipers. This makes me think it might not be the master cylinder because wouldn't it affect both sides the same?

Is there a way to flush the hard line from the master cylinder distro box to rule out a blockage there? I don't think there is one because with the bleeder loosened I can bleed the caliper and fluid squirt out its like there is a valve closing and not allowing return of fluid only delivery to the caliper is this a possibility?

Edit
Just had a laying on the couch contemplating why I don't buy cars with warranties idea. Could I leave the brake bleeder closed and undo the brake line from the distro box and then try to clamp down on the caliper piston and see if it will collapse? My thinking is that if it indeed collapses and fluid shoots out of the line then I can move to the brake master cylinder itself, reconnect the line to the distro and connect everything back, pump up brakes till its stuck again and then this time remove the line from the master cylinder, if it again allows me to collapse the piston and fluid shoots out of the line from the distro to the master then I've successfully narrowed down the problem to the master cylinder. Or is this crazy?

 

[smario259]

I don't know if this is characteristic of the Ford ABS system, but only on my Escape the caliper pistons are hard to push back. None of this on the other (older) cars that I've had. Sometimes the passenger side gives some, but with an effort. The driver side is tougher. I found the pads and rotors to wear quicker on this side too, but it never went to an overheat so I did not went further on this issue, as the brakes are doing okay after 17 years. Two years ago I changed the rotors, pads, and the passenger side caliper. Haven't done much mileage since, thanks to the coronavirus, so I did not even have to take them apart to clean

and lube the pins yet. I did try to push the new piston through its bracket, to see if I can give some play to the slides, but it did not work, but this may very well be because there is simply no noticeable play with the new pads and rotors.

 

[10Escapeguy]

I don't know if this is characteristic of the Ford ABS system, but only on my Escape the caliper pistons are hard to push back. None of this on the other (older) cars that I've had. Sometimes the passenger side gives some, but with an effort. The driver side is tougher. I found the pads and rotors to wear quicker on this side too, but it never went to an overheat so I did not went further on this issue, as the brakes are doing okay after 17 years. Two years ago I changed the rotors, pads, and the passenger side caliper. Haven't done much mileage since, thanks to the coronavirus, so I did not even have to take them apart to clean View attachment 2518
and lube the pins yet. I did try to push the new piston through its bracket, to see if I can give some play to the slides, but it did not work, but this may very well be because there is simply no noticeable play with the new pads and rotors.

At first I just thought maybe the caliper was setting in but I drove it around the block and the scrapping of the pad against the rotor was very pronounced, it sounded like when a pad was completely worn out. I know pads need a break in but I've never had pads be that loud before and when I took the tire back off the caliper was pressed out completely. However I could rotate the wheel so it wasn't completely clamped down its just the caliper won't fully come off the rotor. My brake pedal is firm and I've always been told a classic sign of a failing or failed master cylinder is a squishy brake pedal feel. I'm afraid I may have to tow this to a shop.

 

[smario259]

Did the wheel heat?

 

[10Escapeguy]

Did the wheel heat?

Going up and down the block with slight braking it got pretty warm but I was still able to touch it. Both sides felt equally hot with a slight edge toward the troublesome passenger. However, the scraping was very loud so I didn't want to push it and ruin a new rotor and fairly expensive ceramic pads. Raining all day here so tomorrow I'm going to seperate the master cylinder from the booster and check for leaks and visually inspect the booster. Having to wait on funds to get a new MC so figure I would try to do some more diagnosis while I wait.

 

[10Escapeguy]

OK so after doing some more research while I wait out the rain delay I've decided that in addition to checking the Master Cylinder I'm going to also look at the abs assembly, I've found a couple articles that state while rare a stuck closed/open solenoid could cause the issue I'm having with my brakes. Due to contaminated brake fluid (which mine needs replaced badly its very dirty looking) can cause rust to build up inside and valves can get stuck. I always thought though that if you disconnect abs with the fuse it completely bypasses the ABS. However, since fluid does pass through regardless of pump activation I suppose I could see how a stuck closed or mostly closed valve could cause the caliper to not return as it's blocked in the distribution box under the MC. Is this a wild desperate theory or something worthy to check into? Anyone heard of such a thing causing this sort of problem? Prior to part replacement when I got the C1095 code I tapped the HCU with a hammer and it seemed to fix it for about a week. The light went out for the ABS but then came back and that's when I pulled the fuse. Feel like I'm going in circles lol.

 

[10Escapeguy]

Bit of a weird update.

So I finally was able to get to work on the Escape thanks to the weather clearing. I first attempted to see if I could push the caliper while it was all hooked up via the ears of the brake pad. No dice didn't budge at all. So I unhooked the brake line on the side of the Master Cylinder and tried it again. This time I had some success and I saw fluid squirt out of the line. Based on this I deduced that whatever is causing my brakes to not return fluid is at the Master cylinder. I also took a closer look at the driver side and it appears that at one point it was dragging as well. The pad is noticeably shorter on one side. Next I pumped up the brakes with the car running at temp. I did 5 quick short pumps then a hard holding pump. As I held it the brake pedal very slowly crept to the floor. I then detached the master cylinder from the brake booster and a lot of vacuum was released. I checked behind the master cylinder and didn't notice any dampness nor notice any dampness in and around the brake booster. I'm thinking based on my symptoms and after looking through alldata for this vehicle I can safely assume I need to replace the master cylinder. My best guess is the return spring is faulty and not allowing the piston/valve(?) to return to rest position. This in turn could presumably cause the hole for the return of the brake fluid to be either fully or partially blocked.


More strange is that after doing all this I decided to go ahead and just see what would happen if I drove it again. Last time there was immediate scraping of the pad into rotor so much so in fact it left gouges on the rear engine side up high. This time it backed out silently. I was then able to take it down the road without scraping going in a straight line. However, when I would turn the wheel to the right it would have a scraping sound, not nearly as bad as before but for sure present. Turning left little to no sound. I was able to run the car up to 55 mph (I live in the deep country lol) then brake moderately down to 35 mph. I did this 10 times and no smoke from rotor. I then let the brakes off for about 15 minutes at 55 mph to cool them off.

While driving I could hear an intermittent rubbing sound which I assume and it felt like a bit of brake drag.

I also reset the C1095 code and plugged the good fuse back into the ABS module and no codes after driving for 30 minutes straight with multiple brake applications.

Any pointers? Any comments?

Next I'm going to flush the brake lines all around and then do an ABS service bleed.

*edit

Just had a thought, I wonder if it actually could be my brake booster? Could the rod be too far forward and when I popped it off the MC it reset a bit and that's why I have such a drastic change in brake behavior? I wonder if it would be OK to put a small washer on the bolt stud to move the MC forward just a hair to see if that would solve it. Maybe the rod is just barely applying the piston in the MC at brake pedal rest position? Is this even possible?

 

[10Escapeguy]

Got a liter of brake fluid this morning and flushed each brake in accordance with the shop manual. I went through the whole bottle and probably need to do it again. The brake fluid was pretty dirty. I'd describe the color as the amber urine you have from drinking beer all night then that first pee of the morning. Now it's slightly yellowed but I ran out of brake fluid to replace so going to get two more liter bottles.

Took it for a drive down to the local deserted blacktop road and got it up to 65 then did several brake applications including 3 emergency stops. The ABS kicked in all 3 times and brought the vehicle down to a stop in a decent amount of time. I then drove it hard with mutliple stop and starts then drove about a mile with easy braking back to my house. At the house I used a laser thermometer on the calipers and passenger read 176 and driver read 174. Driver rear drum was 136 and passenger rear drum read 119. I may need to do some adjustment on the rear passenger drum and see why it was so much cooler. Still have a slight scraping sound when turning the wheel left or right more pronounced going left now. When I inspected the driver caliper I noticed the caliper bracket was dry as a bone and there was a bit of rust build up. I need to get some more caliper grease and take the bracket off and clean off the rust. I'm thinking that's what is causing the slight grinding problem on the driver side. The grinding noise on the passenger that was in the video I posted in a previous posting is gone now.

Problem is still not fixed but it's much better. I'm still thinking I may need to replace the master cylinder and am going to order a brand new Motorcraft one this coming weekend and install. I'll post pics of the install as it will be my first time and it may help others.

Conclusion:
I think the fact the brake fluid was very dirty (probably original) caused all the problems. Dirty fluid did something to the master cylinder which in turn did possible damage to my abs module which caused the C1095 code, damaged MC caused both front brakes to drag but the passenger for some reason (possibly the weak wheel bearing) was affected the worst. Brake flex hoses were both probably on their way out and when I replaced the driver side months ago but not the passenger (which in hindsight was stupid lesson learned replace in pairs!) it helped the driver side to release a little bit but the passenger was still fighting with dirty fluid, weak wheel bearing and deterioration of the flex hose.

Final thought for now:

If you can't remember when the last time you had your brake fluid replaced do it now and then every two years or suffer substantially more in repair costs. LOL

 

[dwightbresemann]

Bummer, still having problems.

Some more information concerning hex code and as-built within the ABS module. The member asking the question on forscan forums is also a member here.

.ABT file and the VIN - FORScan forum

 

[10Escapeguy]

Bummer, still having problems.

Some more information concerning hex code and as-built within the ABS module. The member asking the question on forscan forums is also a member here.

.ABT file and the VIN - FORScan forum

Thank you Dwight! I haven't had forscan for long but I'll definitely be using the links you've provided when I finally get the ABS module in a couple weeks. Just need to figure out how to save the as built data first lol

 

[dwightbresemann]

You'll figure it out. Once in ABS module, at the bottom of the screen is a save button. You can also write the as-built numbers on paper.