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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A quick measurement of the rear bumper of my 09 Escape revealed that the gap between the two ends of the bumper is... exactly 49 inches, maybe a centimeter more. Too good to be true?

I am going to get a RECON Line of Fire soon and see how things work out from there. Keep posted, if interested! Also, contributions/donations welcome. :D :D :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
For the 60+ people who have viewed the string, here's an update.

After a few e-mails with Recon, I have decided to attach the line of fire to the lift gate door instead of the bumper and buy an excessive amount of wire to run up the gate and down to the lights for a clean(er) splicing job. I'm ordering the part on Monday and seeing how the install goes next week!
 

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:shrug:

:stop:

Are you really sticking a light bar to your lift gate? I thought these mounted in the space between the lift/tail gate & bumper?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
With adhesive tape, yes. It can be done, only additional wiring required. I just ordered the part =)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Whoops! So there's a bit of a story to this. Here's an update and some pictures.

For the pictures, the light bar isn't actually attached. What I did was close the liftgate onto the LED bar and test the fitting from there... and it's quite snug. The strip was bad though (can you say poor LED alignment? look at the pictures), and an e-mail to RECON resulted in a second LED bar, which isn't pictured, but the different by just looking at it is significant. The trick to getting it to fit is a lot of wiring and needing to cut the adhesive tape pads because they will have to fit backwards in order to stick to the liftgate. I haven't been able to find any 24-gauge wire yet, but hopefully I can get it done before winter break shows up since it would look pretty darn cool (and be pretty darn useful) during my 11-hour drive home to Michigan.

Pics!



Other notes:
- width of gap in the bumper: 49-1/3"
- width of LED bar: 49"
- wiring estimation: about 30 feet
- tools: wiring tools, something that cuts plastic
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·


Black=LED bar
grey= default 3M adhesive location (has screws)
teal= new location after unscrewing and trimming adhesive pieces
Blue= bumper
Brown= liftgate
Red = LEDs

The traditional connector is a 4-pin, but to make it look clean, RECON recommends splicing (cutting the 4-pin off and running wires)... and with the method they/I proposed, I am going to have to run wire through the liftgate and back down to each light. Nothing like a little project, huh?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I discovered the magic that is a four-pin trailer wiring harness for self-installation and got a 25 foot connector for about $17. Since I don't think I'll actually be towing anything but a bike hitch, I am going to try to wire it through the bottom of the car, along the rear D-pillar, and then tape it along the inner-side of the liftgate. This will remove the scariness that is me working with electricity and trying to splice wires (and any fears that I'll void my warranty). Also, if I do ever need to tow anything, I can just remove and tape over the connector for the LED bar and use the connector to power the trailer lights... or I can find a splitter.

The thing that helps about the D-pillar is that my D-pillar trim on the left side fell off while I was driving one day, and the dealership says the part won't be in until Wednesday the earliest, so if the wiring comes Wednesday, I can quickly sneak it in before the dealership reinstalls the new trim piece.
 

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ophiruchus said:
Whoops! So there's a bit of a story to this. Here's an update and some pictures.

For the pictures, the light bar isn't actually attached. What I did was close the liftgate onto the LED bar and test the fitting from there... and it's quite snug. The strip was bad though (can you say poor LED alignment? look at the pictures), and an e-mail to RECON resulted in a second LED bar, which isn't pictured, but the different by just looking at it is significant. The trick to getting it to fit is a lot of wiring and needing to cut the adhesive tape pads because they will have to fit backwards in order to stick to the liftgate. I haven't been able to find any 24-gauge wire yet, but hopefully I can get it done before winter break shows up since it would look pretty darn cool (and be pretty darn useful) during my 11-hour drive home to Michigan.

Pics!



Other notes:
- width of gap in the bumper: 49-1/3"
- width of LED bar: 49"
- wiring estimation: about 30 feet
- tools: wiring tools, something that cuts plastic
That looks nice. Quite an interesting effect. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Funny that you responded today. I just got back from the dealership where I worked with a dealer tech and this is the final plan (I bought a small hacksaw... that's how final this plan is):

1) shave off the vertical support for the LED bar
2) glue/stick it to the bumper
3) cut open a small hole on the left side of the bumper to make room the trailer pin head
4) run the OEM wire behind the bumper and into the pin. a few rip tie cord things and we're in business.

Making it stick to the tailgate, as decided by the floor tech, service tech, and myself, would be a bit sloppy, and hiding it in the panels would run the risk of moisture, premature wear, etc.

update soon, hopefully!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just had someone help me shave off the rear support for the LED bar... I'm gonna try the wiring trick the dealer recommended and see how it goes from there!
 
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