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Hello everyone. My fiancé has a 2008 Ford Escape. She was in an accident about 6 months ago, I replaced the radiator, oil cooler, ac condenser and had a garage replace one of the motor mounts. Ever since then the car has been vibrating when stopped or in park. And just a few days ago it started making a rattling noise when Parked on an incline, sounds like it’s coming from underneath the vehicle. Any advice on possible problems is appreciated
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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Welcome to the city, Luke.
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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Hello everyone. My fiancé has a 2008 Ford Escape. She was in an accident about 6 months ago, I replaced the radiator, oil cooler, ac condenser and had a garage replace one of the motor mounts. Ever since then the car has been vibrating when stopped or in park. And just a few days ago it started making a rattling noise when Parked on an incline, sounds like it’s coming from underneath the vehicle. Any advice on possible problems is appreciated
I agree with LX, I would go through your exhaust system mounts/hangars, motor mounts, etc.

if you can hear it, while idling on a hill, set the emergency brake and crawl underneath it... follow your ears, my friend
 

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Not related to any accident, the passenger side motor mount, nearest the crankshaft and other pulleys, can fail internally and cause vibration when idling in gear, such as when stopped for a traffic light. Putting the selector into neutral will in most cases relieve the vibration. As I understand the mount has a liquid-filled 'capsule' internally that somehow fails, and allows the fluid to disperse and then you get vibration. There are multiple OEM and aftermarket mounts for that spot at Rock auto's web site. I replaced the one in my mariner, and it definitely helped with the vibration, which had worsened over time. Not at all difficult once you place support under the engine(a good sized block of wood to spread the load on the oil pan seems to work adequately, though Ford says never use the pan as a support...
You will need metric sockets, a breaker bar/torque wrench, and at least a 12" extension, IMO. It is an unbolt-bolt-in-the-replacement type with no real technical skill necessary.
tom
 
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