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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All...Newbie here, but had to get started right away on tinkering with stuff. I stole this idea from a guy on another forum however, it works great/looks great(for 15 bucks) so I thought I'd share. I simply took a garbage can and cone filter adaptor then shaped everything around the factory cool air duct that pulls from behind the headlight...It seals against the hood to keep warm air out.

Materials Used:
- aluminum MAF sensor adaptor w/ filter included: 10.00 on ebay
- 1 black rubbermaid garbage can: 3.00 at lowes
- 1 5ft strip of high temp pipe insulator .97 cents at lowes
- 1 pack of zip ties

Tools Needed:
- Dremel: cutoff wheel, sanding discs or wheels, and cutting bit for the MAF adapter hole.
- Flat head screw driver

Time Needed: I'd call it about 1.5 hours after all the cut, test fit and repeat procedure.

See Pics Below of Finished product: (sidenote...i know my battery is still disconnected ;) )




 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well it's the same thing that many people spend 200 bucks on from a functionality stand point. More/cooler air = more power, if you just add a filter it likely wont work...The key is isolating less restricted cool air from the factory inlet tube(the one under the fuse panel).

I left that tube in place as our escapes have a good set up to begin with...they just don't breath well through a paper filter. The heat is kept out by the insulation foam sealing against the hood so any warm engine air is minimal...It definitely runs stronger. I will follow up with more info on mpg gains after a full tank. - I definitely feel it the most on top end power...gets up and goes alot quicker at highway speed.
 

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OUT'FREAK'N'STANDING!!!!! Not bad let us know how it works and more instructions on how to :thumb:

ALSO using a open tip end air filter would work better dont you think?
 

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agreed more in depth directions and this sounds like it will help me on the trails as well.
K&N was going to build me one for the 08 escape but I let it go at that thinking to myself it's 40 just for the stock fitting K&N filter.
looking forward to reading more about this..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the kind words...I think you're right on the open tip filter however, that one came with the MAF adaptor and for 10 bucks I was just gonna roll with it.

Honestly on the how too...it's pretty much just take some quick length measurements and start trimming bit by bit. I made one to get an idea and then used it as a template for a more perfect fit. I highly recommend a dremel as you can cut your MAF hole perfectly by tracing the adaptor and marking your mounting holes.

I'm not sure if if it would work the same for the later models as the key to the whole thing is isolating the cool air...without an 08/09 to look at it's tough to say.
 

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Nice job. Unfortunately, the 07/08 have the MAF sensor built into the airbox. This makes it a little more difficult for DIY jobs -- unless you want to hack at the OEM box.
 

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Good job!

It looks alot like the 08/09 Ford Mustang Bullitt factory CAI. The main difference being that it is factory, and the inlet air comes in from the leading left (drivers side) air above the headlamp. Yours is most certainly less expensive! ;) But looks pretty good to me. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi guys...I'll post some new pics tonight hopefully as i made the swap to an open ended filter. I also found a reducing coupler that fits perfectly over the stock tube and into the open tip of the filter going from 3" to 2.5" basically creating a perfect ram air function of cool air from the stock tube. It was an extra 30 bucks for a spectre filter the the coupler but it looks/works great and I'm getting the same if not better(due to the heat shield) function than the 200 dollar weaponR intake for about 50 bucks and 2 hours of work. - Not to mention the sense of accomplishment.
 

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I personally wouldn't cheap on the actual filter. For oiled gauze, I'd chose S&B, K&N, or Airaid. For dry, AEM or aFe. I'm going to try dry next (aFe).
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I hear ya...but quality and price shouldn't be mistaken for the same thing. I've used K&N, Amsoil, etc...not gonna rip on their product quality, they're fine...but K&N filters are grossly overpriced. There are a thousand good reviews of spectre filters to be found with a simple google search at half the cost as well. I will be using my K&N oiling/cleaning kit with the spectre filter...pics and mpg gains will be posted tonight and probably this weekend as I'm taking a long hwy road trip and will be fully loaded down.
 

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Im curious about the plastic trash can and how to cut it. And really the break down of all steps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
hey guys sorry I got really busy with my puppy tonight and didn't have time to take/post pics...I'll try to measure it and do a good write up with updated pics tomorrow.
 

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stlxlt05 said:
hey guys sorry I got really busy with my puppy tonight and didn't have time to take/post pics...I'll try to measure it and do a good write up with updated pics tomorrow.
Can you post some pics of your puppy in the pet pics thread too? :)
 

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This is freakin sweet. I can't wait to see a write up on this! Awesome ingenuity! :thumb:
 

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stlxlt05

Thanx for posting your CAI DIY kit. I'm following intently.
It's members like yourself making contributions here that help all us Escape enthusiats.

KUDOS to you brother. :thumb: :woohoo: :thumb: :woohoo: :thumb:

:wave:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ok so i'm gonna skip new pics...I've decided to scrap the coupler that was "ramming" the air in...the filter is pretty much sealed off from engine heat so I wanted the whole thing to breath good. So long story short...minus and open tip filter, it looks the same.

Here goes...
1. aquire supplies mentioned in original post:
rubber maid plastic garbage can, escape specific maf adaptor for the filter on ebay, and some foam pipe insulator. some 1" nuts and bolts to hold it together. 3m double stick tape.

2. Remove stock air box...it's just one bolt as I recall and it just lifts right out after you loosen the clamps.

3. You should have your MAF sensor disconnected by pulling the clip out, which will allow you to loosen the clamp on your sensor housing and pull stock air box out.

* at this point you should have only the stock air box out...you will use the distance from the maf sensor housing to the inner edge of the fender as your box's length.

4. On to the cutting and shaping...take some brief measurments(it's gonna take lots of trial and error, possibly a second can to cut up :lol: *(you can cut the entire side out of one side so you're left with a giant dust pan shaped garbage can. Lay it sideways so the fat side is up. The top will be open to access the filter anyway.

5. Grab your dremel and a re-enforced cut off wheel and begin your trimming.(start small and go cram it in there noting where to keep cutting...you can always take more. I believe the short end nearer the strut tower is about 6" or so and the long end is roughly 10-12"(DOUBLE CHECK)...I'm going off memory as it's pouring outside right now. The tough part is gradually shaping the strut tower curve.

6. take your adaptor plate, mark and drill your screw holes in the lower right corner of the bottom side of your garbage can.

7. When you get your fit just right, you now need to remove that MAF sensor housing as well. It makes the assembly much easier. So now, take your foam insulator and carefully go around the edges this will cover all your cut up edges so it pretty's it up too. I drilled a hole every 6 inches or so and at the corners and zip tied my foam in place(see pics).

8. Now place your sensor housing, the adaptor plate and your box together and fasten them so that your new "heat sheild" is screwed firmly to the adaptor plate through the holes you drilled earlier.

9. Place your entire new unit, back into the intake tube rotate and tighten your clamp so that the angle of the box follows the slope of the hood as close as possible. I used a zip tie in the upper corner to attach it to a high-reaching set of wire loom that held the back end higher.

10. at this point your box should be sitting so that the stock tube is entering it right in the bottom front corner...You can now attach your filter and plug your sensor back in. Should be looking awesome!

11. Now for the tricky part lol, you need to create and attach another foam seal that attaches to the under side of the hood. This closes down and rests on top of your box seal...essentially filling the gap between your heat shield and the hood.

12. Easiest way.... measure your distance from the front edge of the fender, basically right on top of your headlight to right past the fuse box where your box starts. Then measure the distance it goes "in toward the center of the hood", then the length of the box going further up towards the windshield, then to where it goes back towards the strut tower, and then from the strut tower edge to the cowl of your hood up near the wipers.

13. Essentially this gives you an up, in, up, out, up, pattern of measurements that can be transfered to the bottom side of your hood with a piece of chalk and a tape measure. You can then see where you need to make your "u shaped" insulator that will close down on the foam attached to the top edge of your box...thus sealing the top edge. Your goal is to have it sit right on top of the box when the hood is closed.

14. Cut your foam piece to the combined length of the measurements, score your edges for better corner bending and attach to bottom of hood with heavy duty 3m double sided tape.

15. Enjoy your ridiculous amount of time spent and sense of accomplishment.

16. I am not responsible for any mess ups or damage you cause your vehicles if you mess up, I'm just a dude with a hand tool and some spare time. I have no mechanical inclination lol, so please dont trash me if it doesn't work for you. I'm sure there's a million ways to skin this cat...this is just mine. I spent a few nights perfecting it, and still don't know if I'll keep it, I need a few weeks of testing to decide. But enjoy it if you go for it...it looks, and sounds amazing. :rockon:
 

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I SEE!!!!! I get it now on how to make the trash can box. ON the first pic of the post we see the bottom of the trash can points towards the MAF.... :wave: :rockon: :thumb: :cigar: :box: :happy: :yahoo:

Also to help, add high temp insulation, to the trash can, you know the one that looks like DYNAMAT. I THINK that would work :confused:
 
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