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Anybody ever used the MTX thunderform custom enclosure? I saw one on ebay and I was curious as to how difficult it is to install and if they enjoy it. I was thinking about buying one for myself to save on cargo room
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MTX Thunderform Custom Enclosure
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I don't have one yet but plan on buying one the 1st part of '10 purely for the enclosure. Pretty much for the same reason; to save space as we take alot of trips. I cannot remember the specs off the top of my head but the driver is kinda mediocre, so I plan on putting something better in there soon after. I don't need anything that will annoy people a block over,I just remember the driver cut off somewhere in the 38 to 42hz range and would like a little more bottom end.
As far as install goes, from what I've read it's a piece of cake. Just a little more work for the amplified model, of course.
As far as install goes, from what I've read it's a piece of cake. Just a little more work for the amplified model, of course.
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Hmmm I was thinking the same thing. I already have a JBL sub I really like, so I was gonna take out that MTX and just keep it as a backup. If you get one before I do let me know how it works out!JoeyK said:
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Sweet :thumb: I just took a look at your pictures, it looks very sharp and frees up ALOT of space. I might just have to buy one tonight :angel: Did yours come with the grill?Surfscape said:
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I don't think they make them for 09-10. The rear plastic piece that the "hole" in the MTX goes around is not longer on the new models. I have also seen a box that fits where that one does but does not have the "hole".
This rig:
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This rig:
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1,126 Posts
i have a thunderform enclosure. I'll see if I have some pictures. I have the medium/dark flint interior. and the box matches the medium flint. It accents well with the dark flint peices. There are a few things that I have done to make it better. I took the driverside rear cargo compartment panel off and put very thin tape/foam insulation (1/16th inch)under the mounting snaps/clips. I did this because the unit is heavy and it wants to make the panel clips squeal when driving down the road. This insulates the panel from the body. You can get some at a hardware store. Just make sure its super thin and sticky on one side.
This is the panel.
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After I removed the factory insulation. You can see where the rivets have to be melted off to remove the compartment.
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Here is the body with the panel removed.
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The thunderform.
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Thunderform installed. Amplifier is mounted above the spare tire. It just fits.
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This is the panel.
After I removed the factory insulation. You can see where the rivets have to be melted off to remove the compartment.
Here is the body with the panel removed.
The thunderform.
Thunderform installed. Amplifier is mounted above the spare tire. It just fits.
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That is such a clean install I can't even take it anymore, now I have to order one! Very Nice :clap: The only other fun part will be deciding on where to put my amp and 4 farad capacitor. Both are HUGE and mounted to the back of the left rear seat right now.ajc6882 said:Thunderform installed. Amplifier is mounted above the spare tire. It just fits.
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1,058 Posts
Agreed, useless. A VERY strong ground and quality wiring is all you need.
I must say, I think this is the most cost-effective semi-stealth system for any E/M/T with the older platform and styling. With the new type, because of the floor design I think a true false floor is more appropriate. That's due to our spare tire being under the car, which changes the game.
I must say, I think this is the most cost-effective semi-stealth system for any E/M/T with the older platform and styling. With the new type, because of the floor design I think a true false floor is more appropriate. That's due to our spare tire being under the car, which changes the game.
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kkreit01 said:
I wish I knew before I bought it lol is there any reason then so many people swear by them? Is it just ignorance, or they good in certain applications? (Honest Question)fourthmeal said:
I only installed it because of the dimming lighting issue, do you think a new Optima Yellowtop battery should do me? I need to replace my battery as it is, as I mentioned in another post. I had also ran the idea of a HO alternator, but I was warned that those can sometimes overheat the stock wiring and cause fires. As I would not like to practice my fire extinguisher capabilites, :fire: and I really wouldn't know what I'm doing, I don't think I want to take the replacing an alternator route. That is unless I need to get it replaced, and I will have the dealership, and my oh-so-wonderful U.S. Fidilas :roll: warranty take care of that.
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The only thing I can say is that with amps with enough capacitance inside (read: high quality amps), and with your wiring technique (especially ground) as good as you can get, you should not have dimming headlights.gmercedesbenz said:
Case in point and I've brought it up before, I have a true 1200-1400W (continuous) capable sub amp, and a main amp capable of several hundred watts continuous as well. Even at full tilt (before clipping), I get zero dimming in the car. I get more dimming trying to roll up a window that is already up. You've probably seen that before, so have I.
But what does it for me? A REALLY good ground point, and amps with a lot of capacitance built right in. And now that I have HID lights, there is zero worry of it ever being an issue. Try those if you can find some that don't glare. I recommend pointing them down more than a regular light which seems to make it a non-issue for glare.
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For our model years, you can easily do a false floor, probably much cheaper!2010ec said:
Take a peek at my build threads, you'll see what I mean.
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That's a real clean look
What are you guys using for a grounding point? I have a 2011 Escape and I have it currently grounded to the bolt holding the plastic false floor down. I wanted to get it on the bolt holding the rear seat down but I couldn't budge that nut for anything. Is that an acceptable grounding point or should I change it?
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1,126 Posts
Choose a bolt that holds one of the cargo attachment points. That is what I did and It works great. Just hit the area with sand paper or a wire brush attachment to clean the paint off that way you will get good a ground. If you don't have the four brackets then just use the seat bolts. You may need a breaker bar to get them loose. Good luck. Remember keep your power cable and sound cables away from each other and if they cross make it at a 90* angle. I use two pull ties to keep them at the 90* creating a X. :shades:
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