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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I recently ordered an Infinity Kappa five and Phoenix gold RSD65cs Speakers. Wanted to give some pics of the install. BTW, all pics are expandable to 640x480, just click on them.

First off, I started out by installing some Dynamat. I know the cost is prohibitive and I would have gone with Raamat if I hadn't had a bunch of Best buy gift card laying around. Not knowing what else to do with them, I went ahead and purchased some deadening materials before install. I still plan to go back through with CCF and MLV and soon as I find a place I can drive to for the MLV. Still can't justify shipping costing more than product. Anyways, I had used pegboard before to close car door holes, so decided to try it again. I had been told to use sheet metal, but I was afraid of vibrations so went with Pegboard, not only to add weight, but so I didn't cut the hell out of my self. Doing siding for a few years left me with many scars. I would definetly recommend that people use sheet metal as I had a hell of a time getting the door panels back on. All of those contours to the door panels fit in those holes in the door, so you need something that contours easier and isn't so rigid.







Next, I removed the rear wet trunk and deadened the back door and trunk.





After prepping the door, I ran 16G speaker wire to the front. I decided to mount my crossovers in the back near my amp in case I needed to change anything later. The Ford wire harness at the side of the door are a pain, but you can drill through one of the divet on the side of the harness and still keep your speakwire protected by the rubber sleeve.





The rear doors already have a hole that you can run the speaker wire through so no drilling is required.





I went ahead and cut out my own adapters out of 1/2" MDF and treated them with spray paint so they don't get damaged from water or general weather. I tried to cut them with a rototool, but kept breaking bits. Ended up using a jigsaw. Couldn't have been easier to cut. took about 10 minutes per ring before waiting for paint to dry.





Currently I used weather stripping as I have been told this is made from Closed cell foam, but as soon as I do the rest of the sound proofing, I would like to replace this with a solution similar to what Sinister Mob did.



I wil post more pic of the install tomorrow along with a review of the Amp and speakers. This uploading crap takes forever.
 

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Looks nice. I especially appreciate the picture of the back cargo area completely opened up. I was thinking of mounting my amp in the same place you put yours. Did you have any special issues getting that puppy mounted in there? I figured that since that was the location of the factory amp and sub, there would be enough space for at least ONE amp in that spot.

Can't wait to see the rest of the pics.
 

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Great job!! and man those molex are a pain! haha
 

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hey just wondering, i have a 2010 escape as well, my doors have a white liner across the whole inside door panel, i thought that was factory deadner, it didnt appear like a had to do much else. did your remove yours or did it have it at all?
 

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All of them have it, it is a moisture barrier first, and a sound deadener second. If you end up covering everything in closed-cell foam, technically you've met the moisture barrier requirement.

Oh, and awesome job bud!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, for the rest of my install.

I mounted the tweeters at the windsheild. I figured I put them in the floating mounts until I find out where they sound the best. I can just doubleside tape them any where I need to. Once I figure it out, I'm either going to mount in the doors or in some PVC end caps.





Then I moved on to the amp. I had put this board in before when I removed the factory amp and sub, so all I really had to do is remove my old Directed 750d amp and mount my new Infinty Kappa Five Amp. It's fairly easy to put a mountable surface back there as the factory scrws for the factory system are long enought to re-use. Just make sure you slot it out so you panel fits back on.



I like having my amp here as it is hidden, but I can still adjust it without having to rip the car apart. As I said earlier, I mounted the crossovers in the back as well so I can adjust those as needed and if I ever change the system, I am able to fairly easily.





I still need to adjust the settings on the amp to get the sound I want but from going from just and sub and mono amp to all of the speakers being powered is quite a leap. The sound quality is already impressive and the sub channel is powering my sub more than enough. So far I really like the Infinity Kappa Five amp. It's got a very clean sound and the new speakers give out so much more detail. I've already been asked if I had 8's in the doors. The PGs are really powerful. I believe as long as I get the placement and settings correct and get the MLV and CCF down, this should ber exactly the type of system I was looking for. I am a 34 year old guy and didn't want to vibrate down the road like some 16 year old high school kid. Just wanted good crisp clean SQ and I think that I have it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
BTW, someone may notice the Ground loop Isolator. I seem to be getting some buzz on my tweeters without it. I tried switching the phase on the tweeters but no luck. I think I'm going to run my ground straight to the battery. I think that will get rid of it and I can remove that thing.
 

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You don't need a ground loop isolator. Buzzing is probably a bad ground. Use the seat brace bolt under the floor. Where the little flip back square door is on your false floor, under that is the bolt. It is an awesome ground location. That is where I have mine as well as Fourthmeal.

Also check the gains on the amp. Is it altenator whine? If so check those gains. Also double ground the HU (if not already done).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's definetly not alternator whine as it doesn't get louder and doesn't change tone as I drive. I will definetly try the other ground. I believe I have the ground currently to the a bolt behind the wood. Did it a while ago and didn't take pictures so I don't quite remember. The funny thing is that it's only on the front channel. I did double ground the receiver. Thanks for the advice. I'll probably do it this weekend.
 

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YouKnowMyName said:
Then I moved on to the amp. I had put this board in before when I removed the factory amp and sub, so all I really had to do is remove my old Directed 750d amp and mount my new Infinty Kappa Five Amp. It's fairly easy to put a mountable surface back there as the factory scrws for the factory system are long enought to re-use. Just make sure you slot it out so you panel fits back on.



I like having my amp here as it is hidden, but I can still adjust it without having to rip the car apart. As I said earlier, I mounted the crossovers in the back as well so I can adjust those as needed and if I ever change the system, I am able to fairly easily.



I'm very glad to see these pictures. This is exactly as I had hoped the back space would be where the factory sub/amp would normally be. I didn't expect there to be an access panel but that's even more added value. I'll be able to get all my amps hidden inside the panels. This install is going to look clean and sound sweet man. Keep up the good work, and thank you for the photographic documentation.
 
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