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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an amplifier that is acting odd. I attached it to the key ignition about 1.5 months ago. Now the amp will only turn on and off whenever I turn on the HVAC system. Any idea why this might be occurring? I'm thinking I got a blown fuse and somehow I'm backfeeding. Another good remote wire locaitons in the 2009 Ford Escape XLT (no nav, no audiophile package)
 

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any +12vdc supply should turn on your amp. yes it's best to have it connected to your radio so the amp is not on at all times or when you don't want it to be on. as for your other problem, not sure. possible bad connection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I found that the system cross fed into my ignition switch somehow. Personally, I think the guy that helped me run wires was an idiot and had a bad connection. I just wired my remote to the fuel pump switch. That works well since the amp will shut off whenever I turn off the vehicle and will be on whenever the vehicle is running.
 

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memnon79 said:
I found that the system cross fed into my ignition switch somehow. Personally, I think the guy that helped me run wires was an idiot and had a bad connection. I just wired my remote to the fuel pump switch. That works well since the amp will shut off whenever I turn off the vehicle and will be on whenever the vehicle is running.
That's actually brilliant. I have always had trouble with Fords and their 12v ignition on these newer cars. Typically I have to use a relay or some other smartbox to take the tiny signal they send to the radio and turn it off/on that way. The fuel pump route is smart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just got tired of messing around. I'm an electrical engineer who is frustrated by the way cars are laid out electronically now. I had hooked up to the ignition switch previously, but as you saw from the first post, somehow the amp turned on and off with the hvac system. I figured the fuel pump is its own dedicated circuit, therefore I got nothing other than the fuel pump to contend with for electronic control.
 

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Just a thought from a different perspective, but the fuel pump is probably on a different circuit because it's very important. While it may never pose a problem, I'd personally be a little afraid of interfering with it in any way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
That's why I put a 1 Amp diode in line with the remote in. The amp cannot possibly do any damage to the fuel pump switch wiring should it ever fail.
 

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Can you elaborate a bit?

I have some very strange things happening with my system, in that the amp will not kick on for anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour after I start the truck, but ONLY in the morning after it has been sitting for 12+ hours. Once it comes on, it comes on immediately every time I start up for the rest of the day.. Also, the amp actually turns on, just no output to the speakers. So I tested everything with the multimeter, and it turns out the switched power lead that originally went to the factory amp is only putting out 6V. When I first start up in the morning, it is 6.01 or so, but by the time I finally get sound it is 6.10-6.12 V.

I don't know if this is causing my problem, but it certainly can't be good. I am going to take the HU back out this weekend and look for a 12v switched lead. Any advice would be apreciated!
 

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The easier but more costly way is to buy on eBay the correct harness which has the proper "magic box" to do a 12v signal we are all used to.

But yeah, I have been bad about it too and I just turn the deck OFF manually sometimes.
 

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Can anybody tell me where the fuel pump wire is, and where I can find a 1 amp diode?

I tried switching my 3sixty.2 to remote out mode, using the speaker-ins as a turn on signal. It does send 12v to the amp remote, but there is a horible pop/thud about 15 seconds after I turn off the system when the 3sixty shuts down.
 

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kkreit01 said:
What about a LOC with built-in Remote Turn-on? Seems like a great idea -- if it works:

PIE EIS-LOC-T

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_112 ... LOC-T.html

1 review was good.
This works assuming you haven't replaced the deck. But if you have, then the rules change. The 3sixty.2 has a similar RTO feature with stock decks, just reading a voltage variance in the speaker leads.
 

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fourthmeal said:
This works assuming you haven't replaced the deck. But if you have, then the rules change. The 3sixty.2 has a similar RTO feature with stock decks, just reading a voltage variance in the speaker leads.
Except that my 3sixty.2 makes a loud and painful sounding pop when it shuts down about 15-20 seconds after I turn off the Escape.

Still going to look for a switched 12v this weekend if anybody has any experience or knows where one is.
 

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09Ltd said:
fourthmeal said:
This works assuming you haven't replaced the deck. But if you have, then the rules change. The 3sixty.2 has a similar RTO feature with stock decks, just reading a voltage variance in the speaker leads.
Except that my 3sixty.2 makes a loud and painful sounding pop when it shuts down about 15-20 seconds after I turn off the Escape.

Still going to look for a switched 12v this weekend if anybody has any experience or knows where one is.
Maybe we covered it, but have you switched the jumper in the body of the unit to handle the RTO?

The amps might be getting something else like a back-emf signal. It hasn't happened to my Tribute but it has happened to other vehicles. Also that pop can and will blow speakers if is loud enough. It happened when my battery suddenly died and during a start attempt (barely cranking), the audio system went POP!!!
 

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Well I have been defeated for tonight. I took the HU back out, but there doesn't seem to be a 12v switched coming out. Used to be Yellow/Blk but there is no Y/B wire. I don't want to just start hacking into wires trying to find something. Now I am really frustrated :mad:

FM, yes I switched the jumper to the Rem Out position on the 3Sixty. It seems like it should shut the amp off first, then shut itself off. But it is doing something at shutdown before the amp is off and that is what is making the pop. I am worried it is going to damage the speakers so I need to find something pretty quick.

I have read about people going "directly to the fuse box". How do I do that? I was hoping one of the big wires on the outside of the box under the hood, but all 3 are constant 12v :( same deal with the cigarette lighter, constant 12v...
 

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09Ltd said:
Well I have been defeated for tonight. I took the HU back out, but there doesn't seem to be a 12v switched coming out. Used to be Yellow/Blk but there is no Y/B wire. I don't want to just start hacking into wires trying to find something. Now I am really frustrated :mad:

FM, yes I switched the jumper to the Rem Out position on the 3Sixty. It seems like it should shut the amp off first, then shut itself off. But it is doing something at shutdown before the amp is off and that is what is making the pop. I am worried it is going to damage the speakers so I need to find something pretty quick.

I have read about people going "directly to the fuse box". How do I do that? I was hoping one of the big wires on the outside of the box under the hood, but all 3 are constant 12v :( same deal with the cigarette lighter, constant 12v...
I'm at a loss. You have the stock HU, right?
 

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Stock nav unit.

RF says you need 6v at the high level inputs to use the RTO feature. I am only getting 5v at the speaker-outs. Maybe this is causing the pop? RTO works, and is sending a 12v to the amp.

Looks like I will need a fuse tap of some sort and I can just tap off the fuse box. I will give that a shot tonight.

What is the best way to check my grounds with a multimeter? I am reading around and finding that bad grounds may cause the pop. My ground is at the bolt that holds the bracket for the back-seat (on the side, near the seatbelt tensioner). I sanded both sides to bare metal then attached.
 

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09Ltd said:
Stock nav unit.

RF says you need 6v at the high level inputs to use the RTO feature. I am only getting 5v at the speaker-outs. Maybe this is causing the pop? RTO works, and is sending a 12v to the amp.

Looks like I will need a fuse tap of some sort and I can just tap off the fuse box. I will give that a shot tonight.

What is the best way to check my grounds with a multimeter? I am reading around and finding that bad grounds may cause the pop. My ground is at the bolt that holds the bracket for the back-seat (on the side, near the seatbelt tensioner). I sanded both sides to bare metal then attached.
That ground should be very good. I use that one (and I assume you chose it based on my suggestion of doing it), and have had zero issues. But I also made sure my ground terminal was dead flat against the bracket, with the part actually holding the wire (the part that can't go fully flat) out and away from the bracket, so full torque can be applied to the bracket nut. Popping can occur due to a bad ground, that is a certain possibility.

Now, this is exactly how I ran my stock radio:

A small amount of a single conductor of speaker wire from the 3sixty.2 to the amp(s.) In my case, I daisy-chained both of my amps. I took one speaker wire from the 3sixty.2 to my main amp, and then ran from my main amp to the sub amp. All of this is nominal.

I then took the 3sixty.2 unit apart and switched the appropriate jumper, from "IN" to "OUT".

I took a 4 conductor speaker wire run, cut the appropriate wires off the head unit connector, and soldered the head unit's output wires on the left front + and -, and the right front + and - to the 4 conductor. I then ran those from the HU to the 3sixty.2 at the speaker level input side. I also (incorrectly) took the twisted pair output from the HU to the subwoofer, soldered on and ran 2 conductor wire and ran that to the sub in speaker level input side as well. Later on I removed the subwoofer in's as they were actually taking away from what the primary outputs were doing! Also after removing the subwoofer inputs to the processor, I made a polarity mistake on the main outputs after I determined there was more bass by balancing far left or far right and getting near zero bass when balanced to center. I swapped two of the wires (I think the left side) + for -, and this fixed the issue.

Other than keeping the inputs of the speaker level down to their lowest setting on the dials on the unit itself, and cranking them up to ~-3dB on the outputs in the software itself, the system worked perfectly. If you are still getting turn-off thump, I'm stumped. It isn't rocket science with the RTO turned to "OUT" instead of "IN". The head unit turns on, which then sends a biased signal to the speaker wire, which then turns the 3sixty.2 on. That takes about 10 seconds to turn on the amps, which then output a signal in about 5 more seconds.

When you turn the car or ignition off, or even if you turn the head unit off, the 3sixty.2 senses no more speaker level bias and stops sending a 12V reference to the amps. Then the amps take that as a sign to shut down. This should all happen without any pops or noises, and you are right if they are loud pops then they can kill stuff.
 

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Just thinking out loud, I think it is the LF that needs a + bias to turn the amps on.

Double check polarity by checking wire color and how you wired the speaker level inputs coming into the processor, and validate that you moved the right jumper to OUT.
 

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fourthmeal said:
I also (incorrectly) took the twisted pair output from the HU to the subwoofer, soldered on and ran 2 conductor wire and ran that to the sub in speaker level input side as well. Later on I removed the subwoofer in's as they were actually taking away from what the primary outputs were doing!
I am using the sub outs from the factory HU to the 3sixty. What do you mean by taking away? When I look at the response curves from the before graph, the sub chanel has 20 - about 200 Hz (with a huge dip right at 50). I am choosing "no" to summing.

I am going to get a fuse tap and tap the radio (or amp) fuse at the box, depending on which one gives me 12v. Radio fuse is 5a, amp fuse is 20a. I will report back on the progress :)
 
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