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well I have tried three of four time to join Escape centrial and it stills wont let me so I will go with this.

Well where to start, I have checked out your install and I am loving the amp rack you did. I want to do the same thing but my problem is I want to use one 15 inch sub. and I sitll want everthing to be a little show. and the other problem is trunk space when we travel, "once a year." And I want to know more about inverted subs and what kind of air space is needed. hear is a list or gear I plan on using.

planet audio TQ1601D
TQ404
BB215D sub
Infinity Reference 6830cs "front and back"
Panasonic CQVW100U head unit

going to do the big 3 and I am using 0 guage wire from batterie to cap and grounding with the same. going to a distribution block with 0 guage and splitting off with two 4 guage for power.

hear is what I know. the spare is under the car and unlike most escapes my jack and lug wrinch is in a side pocket. I have a covered cargo area where most would have there spare. I can fiberglass but hate it. and I have done this stuff before but thats been a while ago and now I am rusty... any thing would be great. If you need pictures let me know.
 

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head monkey said:
well I have tried three of four time to join Escape centrial and it stills wont let me so I will go with this.

Well where to start, I have checked out your install and I am loving the amp rack you did. I want to do the same thing but my problem is I want to use one 15 inch sub. and I sitll want everthing to be a little show. and the other problem is trunk space when we travel, "once a year." And I want to know more about inverted subs and what kind of air space is needed. hear is a list or gear I plan on using.

planet audio TQ1601D
TQ404
BB215D sub
Infinity Reference 6830cs "front and back"
Panasonic CQVW100U head unit

going to do the big 3 and I am using 0 guage wire from batterie to cap and grounding with the same. going to a distribution block with 0 guage and splitting off with two 4 guage for power.

hear is what I know. the spare is under the car and unlike most escapes my jack and lug wrinch is in a side pocket. I have a covered cargo area where most would have there spare. I can fiberglass but hate it. and I have done this stuff before but thats been a while ago and now I am rusty... any thing would be great. If you need pictures let me know.
Hey there,

a 15" sub will not stealth in. If you want to use the sub in question, you are better off building an easily removable box that sits on top of the cargo floor. I'd find the ideal .707 Qtc airspace for the sub, and build the box to that. Remember that an inverted sub works fine if the sub doesn't create noise from its backend, which some subs do and some don't. If you do invert, you need to measure how much space the cone ADDS to the airspace of the box. You can do that with math or with an educated guess, or some form of liquid if the cone is waterproof.

I would highly encourage you to work more on a couple things: Deadener, and your front sound stage. Basic coaxials will NOT be able to keep up with a big sub, so your acoustic image will be pretty muddy and weak in the upper range, not to mention Infinity's just do not reproduce the sound spectrum correctly without massive EQ work.

You probably won't need a cap. I am running well in excess of 2 thousand clean watts of power, and there is no cap in my system. I also have NO "big 3" wiring done. The most important thing is a solid secure ground in the back. I always go overboard with grounding, and it always pays off. I went with the center rear seat bracket. I ground down with an angle grinder and a wire wheel the entire bracket's bottom, as well as the chassis bottom to bare metal, and sandwiched my ground termination in between the bracket and the chassis. I bit of conductive grease and its done. I highly recommend using this ground point on this vehicle, it has proven to be extremely solid. Even on the hardest of bass hits and the loudest passages, I can't dim my lights. BTW, I have overdriven +80 Philips headlight bulbs and +30 yellow fog light bulbs, none of which dim at all when I push it. I myself am still surprised at this, because my sub amp can push a 2ohm load into nearly 1440W of unclipped power, and my main amp running my tweeters and woofers maxes at around 400W of clean juice as well. If you consider that I've even clipped my subs (bottomed them out, at 23mm one-way excursion!), I've probably put over 2000W through the system at times, all without any dimming at all.

If you don't want to fiberglass, you could do simply what I did for my 3rd build. That system contains zero fiberglass. It also approximates what you need to do with your build.

So, to recap:

add deadener (and foam), consider a better front stage, build more like my 3rd install for your equipment without fiberglass, and don't worry about a silly cap or the "big 3" and focus instead on a very solid ground.
 
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