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New alternator problem or something else?

1466 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  litleboy
I just changed the alternator on my 2003 Escape, (w/ help o a friend en his tools) I still have some power Issues, w/ AC and Light on, I can see how the panel lights dime, and the AC temperature drops and fan slow down. If I push the gas it goes back to normal, but on the highway The Ac fails the same way. even if I push the gas.

Is there something else to check beside the alternator? any voltage regulator box or something? I bough the recommended alternator from checkers. could it be a faulty alternator? how can I test it? I'm getting:

car off --- 12v
car on, no accesories, --- 13.5v to 14v
car on w/ AC, Hi Beams and stereo --- 13v
car on w/ AC, Hi Beams stereo and radiator Fan, 11V

when the fan turned off voltage went slowly back to 13v

there was no change on the voltage by increasing the RPM.
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litleboy said:
I just changed the alternator on my 2003 Escape, (w/ help o a friend en his tools) I still have some power Issues, w/ AC and Light on, I can see how the panel lights dime, and the AC temperature drops and fan slow down. If I push the gas it goes back to normal, but on the highway The Ac fails the same way. even if I push the gas.

Is there something else to check beside the alternator? any voltage regulator box or something? I bough the recommended alternator from checkers. could it be a faulty alternator? how can I test it? I'm getting:

car off --- 12v
car on, no accesories, --- 13.5v to 14v
car on w/ AC, Hi Beams and stereo --- 13v
car on w/ AC, Hi Beams stereo and radiator Fan, 11V

when the fan turned off voltage went slowly back to 13v

there was no change on the voltage by increasing the RPM.
11V!

I'd look at that fan!
where do I find the specs for the fan? volts, amps? how much current is supposed to draw?
I would make sure those fans are rotating freely. If the bearings are going bad in the fan/s, it could be creating exessive drag on them causing them to draw more power to keep the speed up. Make sure they spin with little effort. I don't remember if you said the battery was good. If it has dropped a cell, that's another thing that could be causing the alternator to work harder to charge a failing battery. Just some thoughts. Sorry if they're repeats.
4 batteries and 2 alternators in less than 2 years ( including the original battery and alternator) I have a brand new battery and the shop recommend me to change the alternator again.

thks for the reply, all comments are appreciated.
What I would do in your case is search by asking for a good and reliable car electrician in your city.
You have serious drainage and / or ground issues with your car.
If you leave it parked for a couple of days does it start normally or with some hesitation?
litleboy said:
where do I find the specs for the fan? volts, amps? how much current is supposed to draw?
The manuals of newer vehicles don't include troubleshooting info like they once did! Specs like that just aren't given.
I had it,,, i need an auto electrical GURU.. I change my alternator again... and is the same, or worst because the new alternator is noisy as hell and the fist miles I drove, the battery warning turned on and light dimes,, I took it back to the shop and the car didn't show anything... its been 2 days with the new alternator and no warning lights but I still have the same problem... voltage drops below 12.2v when radiator fans are on at engine IDLE... I notice too that the voltage drops even more when I push the window elevator with the windows already closed.

Also the voltage drops when I start to move fast, for 2 seconds then it goes back to normal..

Could it be the computer not sending the necessary power?
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