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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey, I just received my new clarion vx400 double-din Head Unit. I'm having install problems. I tried to order an install kit to mate the new HU to the factory mach system but everyone is out of stock or can't seem to get it to me (tried ordering two kits already). Basically I need someone (foruthmeal... or Jpark maybe) to explain how to strip and make the Rca to factory harness from scratch, So I can get this hooked up. I know most will suggest that I just get a new amp but it's just not in the budget right now.

Thanks Jesse
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok I've Pm'd fourthmeal. but I'll update here and maybe do a write up with pics If I can get this figured out. Essentially what I want is to add RCA's to the end of the stock amp harness (small square 8pin connector) to plug into the back of my new clarion vx400. and get the stock amp and sub to work off my new HU.

I'll keep you posted

Jesse

P.S. If anyone has done this let us know
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
SUCCESS!

Well after much searching I finally have everything working. and it sounds great!! I think this is going to be a great start to an eventual full system. So here's what I did to get my Clarion vx400 sub RCA's to power my stock amp and sub on my 2002:

The stock amp has a 4 wire 8 pin connector. the wires are as follows:

1- light green and black + (pos)
2- light blue and red - (neg)
3- black ground/sheild
4- gray and black amp turn on (they call it mute)

Now to convert this to work on an aftermarket HU:

1-you'll need an rca cable (you only need a single) like this (I got these pics from another site but it gives the idea) and strip it back like so:




2-The center wire of the RCA gets mated to the green and black wire from the vehicle harness
3-The outer shield (-) gets mated to the light blue and red wire from the vehicle harness
4-The gray and black wire gets mated to the (usually) blue and white amp turn-on wire from the new HU.
3-The black is a ground

So far it's working great, the only thing I've noticed is a slight popping sound when the radio is first turned on. There is a company that makes an amplifier interface circuit to prevent this, and I may look into getting one. Here's the link

http://www.sminntech.com/ampinterface.html

I hopes this helps someone who is considering doing this it really is a major improvement over stock.

Jesse
 

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Yes, now get a Y splitter to connect L&R to that sub out. Good job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks fourthmeal, What is the advantage of the "y"? I had originally hooked it up that way and when I disconnected one of them there was no noticeable difference in sound. Also the aftermarket ones (metra etc...) only have one RCA plug in the kit. Which also brings up another point, the Rca outs from my HU are called sub1 and sub2. why do you need 2 + and 2 negs to run the amp? considering each rca has a pos and a neg?

Thanks Jesse
 

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Belovian said:
Thanks fourthmeal, What is the advantage of the "y"? I had originally hooked it up that way and when I disconnected one of them there was no noticeable difference in sound. Also the aftermarket ones (metra etc...) only have one RCA plug in the kit. Which also brings up another point, the Rca outs from my HU are called sub1 and sub2. why do you need 2 + and 2 negs to run the amp? considering each rca has a pos and a neg?

Thanks Jesse
When you connect only one side of your sub out, you are not getting full voltage potential to your sub amp's pre-amp in's. This is if there is a left and right output on the back of the head unit. I am unsure of what is going on with your head unit, with this sub1 sub2 stuff. that's a new one for me. I probably need to read the owners manual online.
 

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OK, read the manual, it was horrible at explaining what sub1/sub2 means. My impression is that unless they offer separate control, best to use a splitter. This will give you the most voltage out and will result in a stronger signal to the amp.
 
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