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I finally got to host some photos, but some are sideways because I took them with my iPhone and haven't figured out how to change that in webshots yet.

I decided to install a Nav HU only because I was able to keep SYNC, and make it a plug N play solution with out chopping wires during the install.

Here are some pics of the install, again you have to turn your head sideways to see them correctly :lol:

First I sound deadened all four doors with Stinger Expert Roadkill, which is essentially the same as Dynamat Extreme but allot less expensive. Also I make-shifted speaker wrap ups kindof like Sinistermob did, but with rubberized foam insulation :yes: . I figured It was cheap and I needed something fast to get it done on a Saturday, and it worked out very well with an adhesive strip to help stick it in place.



I wish I took more pics along the way of the process, but here is the mess before I grouped and secured all the modules and wires. I used the PAC MS-FRD1 for maintaining SYNC functions and RAP, which worked out awesome for the navigation deck because they provided VSS, E Brake, and reverse leads which where all needed. I used the PAC SWI-PS for steering controls which work for both SYNC and the AVIC seamlessly, also the MS-FRD1 has a plug made just for the SWI to make things easy. I did have to call PAC to help me program the HU wo do all the necessary functions on the wheel controls. Instructions were a little confusing since things had to be done with in certain intervals and such.



I decided to mount the NAV antenna as far back under the dash close to the vents behind the display cluster. Pioneer suggested to put it on the dash or rear deck with the magnetic adhesive square. I decided to stick the magnetic square under there, and used some Velcro tape to hold the antenna in place. There's no metal above to block the signal and it works perfectly. I like things stealth.
As for the Sirius antenna, I took the plastic OEM clip off the factory antenna lead and plugged it into the new receiver. Also I secured the receiver on the plastic lip inside just above the glovebox. As far as the microphone goes, I attached that to the harness to the rear view mirror with electrical tape since ford used that to secure the black harness cover anyway, it worked out very well. The mic just pokes out of the headliner, and is really out of sight, also I ran its wire under the headliner across the top of the passenger A pillar cover then down under it by removing the rubber seal to access under there to sneak it under the dash above the glove box.



I purchased most of the goodies from Crutchfield so they provided me with the Scosche bezel which I realized I wasn't very happy with because I was up and down on that matte look when there used to be a piano black piece in its place prior. I also had an OEM bezel on its way, but didn't make it in time for the install, so it came in the next day and I got a bezel that was from a METRA ford 500 kit to fill in the gap.

With Scosche Kit :roll:



With OEM nav bezel, and ford 500 trim ring. :thumb:



I used high quality felt tape to line the inner edge of the bezel to give the HU a snug fit, and to prevent plastic on plastic rubbing.



The unit sits flush, which took a little "shimming" of the mounting screws to get it right.



I am really really excited about the way this all came out. It's funny, the other night I driving with the roof open, GNR Appetite for Destruction cranking, and the NAV lady muting my tracks to tell me to make the next turn. I feel like It's even more of a pleasure to drive the Escape now.

Next on the agenda, I will be returning a set of JL' C2's and putting the C3 convertible components up front. I have to decide where to hole saw for the tweets. I hear A Pillar but need TA even more for that location, and I hear the doors sound better for a bare bones system. I also have a JL 12 W3 in an enclosure that I wan to put to use, but I might try to drop in a cheap 8 in the stock location, poly-fill it, and dynamat it and see what happens. This HU actually makes that factory sub come ALIVE, it's unbelievable. Soon enough I will get a compact 5 channel amp of at leas 75x4 and 150 for the sub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
US MARINER 1 said:
Great turn out.
Thanks,

Now all I need is an amp down the road.

Any suggestions on a decent 5 channel amp? I used to have an Alpine PDX-5 in my Element. How's the new version of the PDX series amps, any better?
 

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shanes said:
US MARINER 1 said:
Great turn out.
Thanks,

Now all I need is an amp down the road.

Any suggestions on a decent 5 channel amp? I used to have an Alpine PDX-5 in my Element. How's the new version of the PDX series amps, any better?
Yes, better.

I like using Soundstream amps because they can go active without a processor. Big advantage IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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From what I understand, their amps are about the only thing they have left that is actually good. I know their subs were beast back in the day but that seams to be ... well, then. The active processing on that amps 4 channel brother is why I chose it for my build. It was cheaper than the X4R I found by about 50 bucks. If I weren't intending to run more power to my subs, I would have chosen that amplifier.
 

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Very Nice. I am looking to install the same unit sometime soon. I was wondering with that sync adapter if you still retained all of your functions and kept all the displays on your LCD? Does your bluetooth still go through sync or through your new X920BT? I didn't read entire thread, did you install a the SWI? Do the controls work the same? I appreciate an info. I just picked up a 2010 escape. I have been battling with the dealer. Mine came with the 7 spkr premium sound system but i only counted 5 ( 4 doors plus sub ) No one at the dealer knew lol they had to call ford. They finally told me the two tweeters were part of the door tweeters. That doesn't seem like 7 speakers to me. what a scam by ford.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
beachbum said:
Very Nice. I am looking to install the same unit sometime soon. I was wondering with that sync adapter if you still retained all of your functions and kept all the displays on your LCD? Does your bluetooth still go through sync or through your new X920BT? I didn't read entire thread, did you install a the SWI? Do the controls work the same? I appreciate an info. I just picked up a 2010 escape. I have been battling with the dealer. Mine came with the 7 spkr premium sound system but i only counted 5 ( 4 doors plus sub ) No one at the dealer knew lol they had to call ford. They finally told me the two tweeters were part of the door tweeters. That doesn't seem like 7 speakers to me. what a scam by ford.
Beachbum,

Yes the MS-FRD1 will maintain all the functions. I use SYNC for bluetooth phone since the Pioneer VC seems to actually be allot worse at recognizing commands. When a call comes in the HU will mute 20db and will fully mute when the call picks up. Also when the call ends SYNC will go into stand by and the HU continues to play. All functions on the steering controls work for both SYNC and the AVIC. The center display will say DVD when SYNC is in idle, phone info and IPOD info work with it as well, but no more AM, FM or CD, that is HU only. Vehicle health report and 911 connect still works too.

One note, you will lose the SYNC voice if you use an amp on the front speakers, the signal travels through the stock wiring.

Yes I did install the SWI. The MS-FRD1 has a plug and play solution prepared for the SWI. Setting the code can be a little tricky, I called PAC and they walked me though it in 5 minutes.

I think most car manufactures do what Ford did about the 7 speaker thing. Imagine if it was a true 320 watts, I bet the system is only 80 watts RMS if that.

Also I highly recommend this HU, Pandora Link is awesome. I find myself using it as my primary music source these days, and I have Sirius, IPod, and CD also to choose from. You must have the unlimited data plan with the iPhone or you will suck down you data allowance real fast.
 

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Shanes - Awesome work on the install. I am glad that you were able to make everything work. I love mine and getting the SWI was the key. The MS-FRD1 and the SWI combination is perfect - no soldering or splicing. Just plug and play then program. As you mentioned if you don't use the factory front speaker wires, then Sync does not work. That was the only drawback for me. But well worth it considering I have used Sync about 3 times since February. I would rather access my ipod through the USB in the HU.
 

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Hi, Thanks for the info. Sorry i am just now replying. I just got the install done today in my 2010 escape with sync. I got the X920BT installed with MS-FRD1 sync adaptor, PAC-SWI adaptor. The unit is great but the SWI and Sync interface is horrible. I do not think my installer knew what he was doing. Not all of my buttons work and they did a video bypass (which i do not use ) so whenever i try to do a sync function, the unit reboots. It's a mess. If am not using sync and just the head unit, it is fine. I think i may have to take it back. When i hit the skip fwd or back buttons on the steering wheel to change radio presets, it changes stations. The media button on the Steering wheel does not work either. Not sure what the deal is.
 

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beachbum said:
Hi, Thanks for the info. Sorry i am just now replying. I just got the install done today in my 2010 escape with sync. I got the X920BT installed with MS-FRD1 sync adaptor, PAC-SWI adaptor. The unit is great but the SWI and Sync interface is horrible. I do not think my installer knew what he was doing. Not all of my buttons work and they did a video bypass (which i do not use ) so whenever i try to do a sync function, the unit reboots. It's a mess. If am not using sync and just the head unit, it is fine. I think i may have to take it back. When i hit the skip fwd or back buttons on the steering wheel to change radio presets, it changes stations. The media button on the Steering wheel does not work either. Not sure what the deal is.
I think the programming on the SWI (Program # 2?) is set to go to the next station as opposed to the next preset. Same with mine. The media button won't work as the SWI does not interact with Sync. Mine does the same. I actually don't care about Sync - and if I knew that I wouldn't care back then, I would have not purchased the MS-FRD1 adaptor. Plus witht he added amps/speakers, I don't have the Sync voice. Another item that I don't miss at all.

I can play everyting through the HU and I don't have to organize my folders on my ipod for "voice recognition". I can search the current set-up wight through the HU. With BT, the phone also goes through the HU.

Give it some time. I predict that you too will not miss Sync after a short time.
 

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Hey, I just got the X920BT myself, and I have a couple observations:

1. The voice recognition feature is AWFUL...unusable...the most common thing you hear from it is "What was that?"
2. The NAV software is NOT identical to the Z series...no 3D building mapping on the X series.
3. I have the Avic D1 on another car, and the NAV has not improved much from back then...still looks the same...kinda shocking...it's been 5 years now since the D1.
4. The audio features are superb as is the sound. The Avic D1 was lucky to display 8 characters of the artist or song title, now we have such beautiful graphics and controls.
 

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Hey Shanes,

I just got a 2010 Escape Limited and I have a Pioneer NAV that i am going to install in it. What Metra Trim Ring kit did you use to make the DD unit work with the limited factory nav dash panel? I want to get the dash piece from ford so it all matches with the black finish.

What did you pay for the part from ford? Just curious.

I am installing the AVIC D1, i think that is the model, so from what i gather from your thread is i will need the following:

The PAC module to make the sync and steering controls work MS-FRD1 ?
The ford dash piece
the metra ford 500 kit
SWI (what is this?) from PAC as well?

Thanks for you input. I am new to the 2010 escape. I had a 2002 Escape before, which was much more simple.

Also, how do i know if i have a factory sub? Where is it located? Is the factory stereo all run through the factory head unit i have now or are there amps hidden somewhere i will have to bypass when putting in my new unit?

Thanks again for your help!!
 

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shanes said:
I finally got to host some photos, but some are sideways because I took them with my iPhone and haven't figured out how to change that in webshots yet.

I decided to install a Nav HU only because I was able to keep SYNC, and make it a plug N play solution with out chopping wires during the install.

Here are some pics of the install, again you have to turn your head sideways to see them correctly :lol:

First I sound deadened all four doors with Stinger Expert Roadkill, which is essentially the same as Dynamat Extreme but allot less expensive. Also I make-shifted speaker wrap ups kindof like Sinistermob did, but with rubberized foam insulation :yes: . I figured It was cheap and I needed something fast to get it done on a Saturday, and it worked out very well with an adhesive strip to help stick it in place.



I wish I took more pics along the way of the process, but here is the mess before I grouped and secured all the modules and wires. I used the PAC MS-FRD1 for maintaining SYNC functions and RAP, which worked out awesome for the navigation deck because they provided VSS, E Brake, and reverse leads which where all needed. I used the PAC SWI-PS for steering controls which work for both SYNC and the AVIC seamlessly, also the MS-FRD1 has a plug made just for the SWI to make things easy. I did have to call PAC to help me program the HU wo do all the necessary functions on the wheel controls. Instructions were a little confusing since things had to be done with in certain intervals and such.



I decided to mount the NAV antenna as far back under the dash close to the vents behind the display cluster. Pioneer suggested to put it on the dash or rear deck with the magnetic adhesive square. I decided to stick the magnetic square under there, and used some Velcro tape to hold the antenna in place. There's no metal above to block the signal and it works perfectly. I like things stealth.
As for the Sirius antenna, I took the plastic OEM clip off the factory antenna lead and plugged it into the new receiver. Also I secured the receiver on the plastic lip inside just above the glovebox. As far as the microphone goes, I attached that to the harness to the rear view mirror with electrical tape since ford used that to secure the black harness cover anyway, it worked out very well. The mic just pokes out of the headliner, and is really out of sight, also I ran its wire under the headliner across the top of the passenger A pillar cover then down under it by removing the rubber seal to access under there to sneak it under the dash above the glove box.



I purchased most of the goodies from Crutchfield so they provided me with the Scosche bezel which I realized I wasn't very happy with because I was up and down on that matte look when there used to be a piano black piece in its place prior. I also had an OEM bezel on its way, but didn't make it in time for the install, so it came in the next day and I got a bezel that was from a METRA ford 500 kit to fill in the gap.

With Scosche Kit :roll:



With OEM nav bezel, and ford 500 trim ring. :thumb:



I used high quality felt tape to line the inner edge of the bezel to give the HU a snug fit, and to prevent plastic on plastic rubbing.



The unit sits flush, which took a little "shimming" of the mounting screws to get it right.



I am really really excited about the way this all came out. It's funny, the other night I driving with the roof open, GNR Appetite for Destruction cranking, and the NAV lady muting my tracks to tell me to make the next turn. I feel like It's even more of a pleasure to drive the Escape now.

Next on the agenda, I will be returning a set of JL' C2's and putting the C3 convertible components up front. I have to decide where to hole saw for the tweets. I hear A Pillar but need TA even more for that location, and I hear the doors sound better for a bare bones system. I also have a JL 12 W3 in an enclosure that I wan to put to use, but I might try to drop in a cheap 8 in the stock location, poly-fill it, and dynamat it and see what happens. This HU actually makes that factory sub come ALIVE, it's unbelievable. Soon enough I will get a compact 5 channel amp of at leas 75x4 and 150 for the sub.
If you're downloading those pics to your computer, youi can get a program (free) called Irfanview and you can reorient those pics any way you want, and save them to the folder you downloaded them to. Go here: http://www.irfanview.com
 

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Hey can you make a list of the things you bought and how you programed the things needed and where you bought the parts? i might give it a try looks pretty interesting.
 
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