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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

For those who haven't been keeping track of my escapades, I've been having a great time building shallow subwoofer boxes for the E-C family. Well this one is a bit different, so I figured I would show you what I'm up to. A member asked for an entire system to be designed, built, and shipped to him for final installation. This sounded like a lot of fun so I took the job and cranked on it all Memorial Day weekend.

This sub box is a departure from my typical design. The reason is that instead of using wood to make the front and back sides, I decided to make it entirely out of fiberglass except for a 1" rectangular frame all the way around to allow me somewhere to bolt up the wood top. Doing this makes the box much bigger, but also increases the difficulty and cost of materials in a big way. I would not advise doing this unless you are very familiar with fiberglassing, btw. Anyway, I got it done, but unfortunately because I was working with fiberglass and resin I took no pics of this adventure. Take my word for it, the camera stays well out of your hands when you're doing this stuff.

Here's the box after I got the fiberglass done, and the top board cut and complete. Notice it is actually two layers thick. The bottom board is attached with resin, and lots of screws. To complete the seal, I used the "milkshake"* technique to create a real strong bond with the bottom frame. The subs are just placed in there for the moment:


This is after I got a few layers of body filler on the top



So this part won't make any sense quite yet, but I'll try anyway. This is the amp rack. I made a fiberglass mold of the rear section of the bottom, back about a year ago actually. I decided this is the right time to use it, and to finish it off I made a few wood sections to create a sense of depth to hold the amps. One piece is a U shape, and the other is that wood piece you see. The U piece is fitted around the wood piece and angled up. Then I took fleece and stretched it over the form, to create some nice curves. This is the form after 3 coats of body filler.



There was no room for picture taking during the construction of the amp rack. Too much bondo-dust. But needless to say it was a lot of work, but turned out pretty good I think. I went and carpeted it as well. With carpet, I think you can see the angle work done now



Back to the sub box, I carpeted it as well.


This is a shot of the two pieces installed in my truck.



This is the beginning of the wiring for the amp rack. The guy I'm making this for is using one amp I have, and one with dimensions pretty close to that notebook's size. I'm prepping the wire (techflex, heatshrink, and wire keepers) so upon delivery it will be close to plug-and-play



The parts yet to complete are the top cover boards. Normally I would make a single piece, but for shipping purposes I'm making a split design. This system will also have lighting in the amp rack section when I'm done.

I will mention that I'm happy to do this for anybody, but it isn't cheap. I underestimated my materials costs by a long shot... I budgeted somewhere around $250-300 but it is closing in on around $500. Wood, fiberglass, resin, hardener, sandpaper, regular body filler, long-strand fiberglass filler, carpet, spray adhesive, silicone caulk, polyurethane adhesive, screws, power/ground wire, speaker wire, techflex, heatshrink, grommets, and I managed to ruin a few of my countersink bits for some damn reason this time around. Total time invested so far: 26hrs.

Ok, so I'll keep it going with the pics as I complete the project. Take care!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
:thumb: Thanks bro!

I'm getting mighty good at working on this truck design, I'm not going to lie.
 

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Getting better and better :clap:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The older model still has potential.

What I would do is build a fiberglass tub of the spare tire well, and install a semi shallow, powerful sub in that space. And the amps can sit on the bottom by the spare tire well curve as long as smallish amps are used.

This would be a walk in the park compared with what you see here. Hell you can even still keep the spare tire itself and fiberglass inside of it, but you would need a smaller sub.
 

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i am totally stoked that a person would take the time to create such a project and take his holiday to devote to a build. Let me tell ya...this thing is IMPRESSIVE! I can't wait to finally have a trunk again. As for the price... you can't beat the fact that you get back a trunk and killer sound quality. This is just an absolute must for me. Well worth every penny for all the hard work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
tomtcs said:
i am totally stoked that a person would take the time to create such a project and take his holiday to devote to a build. Let me tell ya...this thing is IMPRESSIVE! I can't wait to finally have a trunk again. As for the price... you can't beat the fact that you get back a trunk and killer sound quality. This is just an absolute must for me. Well worth every penny for all the hard work.
Thanks dude! Most of the money is materials and tools, but hey gotta pay to play right?

I'm still miffed that I spent $60 in vinyl, $40 in spray adhesive, and the final product came out lumpy. It bothers me greatly! Switching to carpet assures a clean, smooth look but I was dreaming of vinyl. Anyway, gotta finish the project's top covers and lighting and whatnot, then it should be sweet. Black carpet for the top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Looks like Tom's boxes arrived VERY ahead of schedule thanks to getting lucky with priority mail.
 

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Forthmeal did an absolutely excellent job on these boxes for me. They arrived WAY ahead of when i was really anticipating getting them. Far in advance of me going on my trip this weekend for military duty... so im totally stoked to get to try out everything for a 7 hour drive. I will be posting pics tomorrow of the full setup. -- But heres a rundown on the system as it ended up.

-The Ground Work-
Big 3 Upgrade - All to 0 Gauge wiring
250 Amp Alternator - Unnecessary - but I had a nissan sentra that i killed due to over-working the alternator. Decided i would just do it to be safe.
Optima Yellow Top D35 Battery
0 gauge wiring to the amp distribution block
140 Amp Circuit Breaker to the Distro Block
2 Farad Digital Capacitor - Installing within the next day or two
2 Layers of sound dampening - one layer from a supplier recommended by Forthmeal and a layer of dynamat extreme
The layers of the sound dampening were done to the trunk in full - both sides by the tire wells, the trunk itself, and the trunk hatch. All four doors were layered on the outer portion of the door and also the inner layer of the door. Sounds incredibly different when you close doors now.

-The stereo -
Pioneer AVIC-X920BT Headunit
Pioneer HD Radio Addon Unit
Pioneer Backup Camera - ND-BC4PA
Sirius Connect Tuner and Pioneer Addon
Ipod Hookup
Alpine SPX-17PRO Speakers - Fronts - Using alpine crossovers
Kicker RS625 - Rears - Using Kicker Crossovers
Kenwood KAC-9104D for the Subs
Kenwood X4R for the Rears and Fronts

The enclosure - One bad *** custom enclosure made by forthmeal for all the amps and the subs.

Pictures to follow....
 
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