If you plan on keeping it around for awhile and have no factory warranty, forget the 5w20 oil. Move up to 5w30. There is a lot of arguement and debate about this on random parts of the net between the factory knows best type people and factory doesnt know best people. What it pretty much comes down to is 5w20 is sufficient (or else factory wouldnt be calling for it), but sufficient doesnt always equal ideal. 5w20 doesnt perform as well but does get those few extra points for CARB emmisions/mpg type stuff for the makers which is why it came about. My 2 cents is use 5w20 like it calls for during warranty in case of some freak catastrophic failure, so they cant come back and deny warranty claim simply cause you used a different weight oil then they call for. Once warranty is up though, def move to at least 5w30 as it protects better, will not have a noticeable effect on mpg, engine running characteristics, anything (it isnt THAT much thicker like dumping some 20w50 in it or something), and is much more common (you can find 5w20 about anywhere now, but usually a much smaller variety anywhere you go).
Intervals depend on personal taste. If you are an every 3 or 5k kind of person, just get the cheapest rated stuff you can find since your not using near the potential. Use any type of synthetic and do 10k or 1x a year, with a good synthetic, you could comfortably do 12-15k+. Oil change intervals have been pretty wastefull in the US for a good while, and unfortunately it is drilled into peoples heads. Look at other parts of the world like europe, many cars have right in the book to change oil upwards of 30k. Of course dont call for using off the shelf conventional oil though. Point is intervals are dependant on how you operate the vehicle, the oil you are using, and what you are comfortable with.
ATF....as mentioned...you want to use the exact type that is currently in it for top offs. You dont want to mix types. If it came with one type and now recomends another type, do a complete change before going to the new type. About changing the fluid...most should be changed more regularly then what the book calls for, and if you have a lot of miles on it without it never having been changed, it is often better just to NEVER change it at that point as you will likely cause problems you didnt have before.
Rotors....these are not high performance vehicles by any stretch of the imagination. Just use the cheapest out of the quality rotors you can find. You can use the cheapest of the cheap with no difference in performance, but it gets pretty hit or miss with premature warping and such with bottom of the barrel ones. A solid disc rotor is a solid disc rotor as far as brake performance goes. All you brake differences come from the pads you use barring mods like drilled rotors, bigger rotors, 2 or 4 piston calipers, etc. Just talking normal off the shelf replacement stuff here.