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I replaced the alternator in my 2004 Escape 3.0l with reman. one. Still no charging. The dash light does not light during pre-ignition or while engine is running on battery. Checked fuses and continuity of wire to battery fuse block but unable to locate wire going to inner fuse block.
 

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Did you check fuse F16 under the dash to make certain it is both good and is HOT IN START & RUN?
Did you check fuse F11 under the hood and make certain that it is both good and is A:WAYS HOT?
Did you check for a complete circuit from the alternator B+ terminal back to the battery positive? It goes through the underhood fuse box 120A megafuse.
 

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A quick test to see if the alternator is functioning is to use a VOM. Measure battery voltage with the engine off. remember.
Start the engine and measure the battery voltage. Both measurements should be on the battery terminals at the battery.
With the engine running the alternator should produce voltage above 13V. More likely 14-14.5. If the battery voltage is not increased from resting battery voltage, there is no alternator output. No output can be due to the altenator, regulator or the wiring between.
FWIW, many 're-man' alternators re-use the regulator. Makes me wonder, why do they think these alternators were returned as cores in the first place? To test them in a re-man shop is not the same as testing them connected to a vehicle. IMO.
I would not buy a 're-man' that re-used the regulator that was 'tested good'. Too much labor in the EMTs.
tom
 

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Also once above is verified just because a part is new doesnt mean it is good. Ive seen quite a few AutoZone parts bad right out of the box. Just saying double check everything!
I got bad one from AutoZone and advance auto.
When I took the one back to advance I had them test the replacement before I left the store it failed too. They had to upgrade my alternator. So anymore I get it tested before leaving and tell other people to do the same.
 
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