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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, 2009 Ford Escape 3.0 here. It's an intermittent problem with a no start situation. I'll refer you to this video I watched with my exact problem

When I use the jumper wire in place of the relay, the vehicle starts and runs fine with the exception of the check engine light sometimes coming on for the evap system. Initially, I thought the PCM was bad but it turns out that may not be the case? My second thought was the relay is bad but swapping it did no good. I checked the fuse that feeds the relay and of course it was good. I just don't understand why the vehicle will run with the jumper but not the relay? I replaced my my anti lock brake module that went bad a few years ago and I do have Fords IDS software if that can help? I'm currently down to one vehicle (this one) as my other, (no names mentioned) threw a rod and made a mess on the shoulder of I-75. Used vehicle prices are outrageous so any help or ideas as to what to look for would be greatly appreciated.

The battery is good and charged
I cleaned the connections on the battery and the ground to the frame.
Checked for power at the PCM, its there when using the jumper.
Checked for loose or broken wires at the PCM connector and engine fuse box.
No blown fuses or burnt smells.
 

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If your E has the same conditions as the one in the video, you have a PCM problem. If you did the checks Makuloco did in the video, you would know that the ground to operate the relay is not consistent. Apparently. That prevents the relay from operating and sending power to the PCM. At least that's what I got from the video.
If you were to supply switched ground via a jumper to the relay, by jamming a wire into the socket that had a switch to ground, you could duplicate what the PCM provides when operating properly. If that worked you would know the PCM is diddled as in the vid.
I would do all the checks for good power and ground at the connector to the PCM as indicated by the pointer Makuloco used to identify the actual connections to test. If you have good power and ground on them... you need PCM work done, at least that's what I got from watching.
Makuloco provides good information and has not steered me wrong on anything he has done. Re-watch and see what he actually recommends.
Too bad about the ventilated block. Someone didn't check oil level? Sorry. It seems that people have forgotten that oil is used by every engine ever made. A minimum check should be monthly, and more often if needed. I sorta have bypassed checking to some degree, but usually do at least monthly.
tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How can I do that if IDS can't communicate with the PCM? I also tried the various methods like closing the doors and turning the ignition off and on 8 times. I entered programming mode, completed it but still have a flashing security light and no start. I'm thinking the transceiver in the steering column is the issue?
 

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What part of the relay are you jumping, the switched side (pins 3>5)? So you have 12v on pin 1 when the key is in the on or start position? How about at the PCM diode?

In the PCM circuit there is 12v that is hot in run and start (pin 1). That comes from the PCM power diode out then back into the BJB to the control side of the relay. The other side goes directly to ground.

There are 2 diodes, and I think they are the same, one for Start, and the other for the PCM.
 

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He's jumping the NO to the C terminal of the relay if he's following the video.

Just as a note, there is only ONE diode in the starting circuit and it's for the bypassing of the OTIS function. It has nothing to do with whether or not the PCM powers up.

Make sure you're using the correct diagram for the OP's car.
 
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