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I was wondering who may have had their oil pan gasket replaced? 2 months ago i took our 04 escape in and the dealership determined that the oil pan seal was shot. So they replaced it along with an oil change. Well 1 week later i smell oil burning again. well they thought this time it was the power stering pump line leaking. They tighted it up and added dye. Well during that week i looked underneath and i still saw the oil leak, but by the time i took it back in it dried up. well i looked under there tonight and its all wet again!!! if you look at the car from the front it is on the back side of the engine and on the pulley side. I am just upset that this has leaked again!!! it bad enough that i also need to replace the front struts b/c of a clunking issue ( already replaced them once about 2 yrs ago and recently changed the stab links) and i need to do the brakes and rotors!! uggg.....i almost wish i could trade this thing in but we still have 2 yrs left on the payments!! i am going to be calling the dealership again and chew their butts out...i think a new seal should last more than 2 months!! esp for 270 bucks worth!!!
 

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Sounds like you need to slow down a second...

If your dealer changed the pan gasket and that did not fix the problem then they owe you something for bad troubleshooting. If the leak was not power steering the second time around then they did it again!

One thing to check out: Leaks from the front rear of the engine (pulley side)...

clogged PCV valve. The PCV is located under the intake toward the back (driver side) of the block. When stuck closed the internal pressure blows oil past the PCV and onto the top of the engine. It can run out next to the Power steering pump and down the front of the block forward driving causes it to run aft. If you see it on the top of the tranny too in some of the pockets then taht's your problem. The harder you drive the more it will leak so sometimes it could seem to go away. Can look like a PS leak, valve cover leak, oil pan leak etc.

of course it could be a PS leak, valve cover leak, oil pan leak so it is best to wipe down the area and try to isolate the leak area before you start spending money.

On the clunk... do a search here... did you check to see if yo have loose front stabalizer ends or stabalizer mounts. These are usually the reason for the clunk and relatively easy and cheap to change out.
 

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Hello all,

I also have this annoying leak - losing about a qt ever 2k miles or so. I presume it's oil pan gasket but one dealer thinks it may be the oil pan. Supposedly, our aluminum oil pans are porus and can leak?? Is this true? Price diff btw oil pan gasket repair vs oil pan is huge so I want to get your thoughts.

Thanks
 

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It's not impossible - GM had a batch of Northstar blocks that were so porous that coolant would disappear. TSBs were issued to techs advising them to add Bar's Leaks tablets when coolant was flushed.

However, this is the first I have heard of any porous oil pans in the Escape. Is your leak visible?
 

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Thanks guys for the reply! Again, the "porus" comment was made by a service mgr who supposedly has seen many similar leask on other escapes.

My leak is slightly visible. I see a film of oil around the oil pan and am losing about a quart every 3k miles. Something I can certainly live with.







I think it's just the oil gasket as opposed to the oil pan. Your thoughts??
 

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Does it leave a mess on the floor? I'd get it fixed if it does. If not, I'd just keep an eye on the oil level. I think your service manager is a dolt.
 

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jonas1022 said:
Does it leave a mess on the floor? I'd get it fixed if it does. If not, I'd just keep an eye on the oil level. I think your service manager is a dolt.
lol. you got that right.

and i could start a thread and use your pics lol, mine looks the same under it. 1/2 a Liter every 5000km
 

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I agree :) I think he is just trying to sell more services.

Honestly, it's not that bad. It does leak on the floor but we are talking a few drops a night. It's a pain to keep checking oil but given that it's at most a quart per oil change, may be I can just live with it. if it's just the gasket, i'd rather get it fixed.
 

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Squishy said:
Overfill by half a quart at every oil change, then you'll just be half a quart from the Full line at the next change.
That's what I did with our Y2K Escort ZX2. It's dead now. Too many miles. :(

My son drove it with the leak for another two or three years. About 60K miles.
 

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What's with oil pan leaks lately? I came home from a short trip and found a few drips under the Escape. It's never leaked before, but similar to the pics posted earlier, wet on the pan, cylinders 1 2 3 side, primarily on the front.
I wiped off oil, haven't started it and nothing else has dripped now for a day. This would indicate an under pressure situation like the PVC pluged. No?
I'd love to just replace the PCV. Question: On the engine light-happy Escape, wouldn't a plugged PCV throw an engine code?

Surfscape said:
Sounds like you need to slow down a second...

If your dealer changed the pan gasket and that did not fix the problem then they owe you something for bad troubleshooting. If the leak was not power steering the second time around then they did it again!

One thing to check out: Leaks from the front rear of the engine (pulley side)...

clogged PCV valve. The PCV is located under the intake toward the back (driver side) of the block. When stuck closed the internal pressure blows oil past the PCV and onto the top of the engine. It can run out next to the Power steering pump and down the front of the block forward driving causes it to run aft. If you see it on the top of the tranny too in some of the pockets then taht's your problem. The harder you drive the more it will leak so sometimes it could seem to go away. Can look like a PS leak, valve cover leak, oil pan leak etc.

of course it could be a PS leak, valve cover leak, oil pan leak so it is best to wipe down the area and try to isolate the leak area before you start spending money.

On the clunk... do a search here... did you check to see if yo have loose front stabalizer ends or stabalizer mounts. These are usually the reason for the clunk and relatively easy and cheap to change out.
 

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Only submitting an opinion.

The mechanics, have done shocking workmanship. :spank:

##

I would make enquiries.

Sounds like, the dealership is being incompetent. :wall:

***

You might have to, call it quits with them. :shrug:

There must be a garage somewhere, with mechanics who take pride in competence. :yes:

Obviously you need to find a service tech, who is willing to provide craftmanship. :)
 

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Squishy said:
Overfill by half a quart at every oil change, then you'll just be half a quart from the Full line at the next change.
Can the Escape be safely overfilled? Without risk of blowing a seal or something?
I'm asssuming this is a V6.

How about the 2.0L I4? How much overfill can it handle?
I usually add a precise amount & make sure to keep it at the max fill mark on the dipstick.
Thanks. JMK.
 

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I just replace my oil pan gasket...messy but, not too bad even with the exhaust that had to be removed.

Anyway, I purchased a "dry" gasket (Felpro) and installed it. I used a torque wrench to tighten it all...in order as well. But, the darn thing still leaks! :wall: The sad thing is that the leak is barely enough to for a drip but, when it does, it goes right on the exhaust. :roll:

Has anyone tried the "dry" gasket method or does everyone use RTV? I tried tightening the bolts another quarter turn but, the leak is still there.
 

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believe it or not. any gasket that keeps oil in. i soak in oil for a few minutes before i install it, then after its torqued i clean up the oil that squirted out.

its never failed me yet. although i really dont like doing it to motorcycle engines cause they are a pain to clean after doing the valve cover.
 

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hurk said:
Squishy said:
Overfill by half a quart at every oil change, then you'll just be half a quart from the Full line at the next change.
Can the Escape be safely overfilled? Without risk of blowing a seal or something?
I'm asssuming this is a V6.

How about the 2.0L I4? How much overfill can it handle?
I usually add a precise amount & make sure to keep it at the max fill mark on the dipstick.
Thanks. JMK.
I've overfilled my 3.0 by over a full quart in the past (didn't want to deal with an opened jug). You're safe up to when you notice bubbles on the dipstick after running the engine - that's a sign that the crankshaft is hitting the oil and frothing it up. The crankcase has a large volume and it would take a heck of a lot of oil to get to the point where you're blowing seals.
 

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I have the same exact leak on my '02 Tribute as the pictures on page 1. I just bought the car, and reviewing the service receipts of the previous owner, a Mazda dealership replaced the pan gasket only a few months ago. Just because there is oil around the pan gasket, doesn't mean that it's leaking. It took me 2 minutes to figure out that the leak is somewhere higher on the rear, passenger side of the engine.

Using a mirror, I couldn't for the life of me see anything from the top side. I checked the PCV valve: dry. But I replaced it anyway, because you just never know. Still leaking.

With a mirror and an hour of my time, I did find a small leak at the "right" (rear) valve cover gasket where the timing cover meets the cylinder head, on the passenger ("front") side. So, I replaced the valve cover gasket, making sure to use RTV at the timing cover/head joint. New gasket, spark plug seals, and bolt grommets. And while I was in there, new spark plugs. I cleaned up the engine with contact cleaner and went for drive. Still leaking.

Now I was mad. I cleaned the area with contact cleaner again and ran the engine while I laid under it, staring and waiting. Suddenly a drop came from around a corner of the cylinder block casting, but I couldn't see where from. The timing cover joint is dry. If I look higher up the block, it's dry. The only thing I can think of now is a plug in the side of the block on the rear passenger side, just above the main bearing split. It's about an inch in diameter, threaded into the block with thread sealant. I can't see the bottom of the plug because all the stuff in the way. And I don't know how I'm going to get an allen socket and ratchet in there to do anything about it. I may just take it to a local garage and let them deal with it.

I'll post with results later.
 

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Last night I removed the threaded plug, cleaned it up, and reinstalled it with RTV sealant. Let me tell you...it was not an easy thing to do. Removing the right splash guard is a must, as well as unclipping an O2 sensor wire from the alternator bracket. The access to this plug is so tight with the right axle and exhaust pipe in the way, that you can only see the top half of this plug, and only if you look from the side. You can't see it at all from directly under the engine. And it did not look wet like it was leaking oil, but I couldn't see the bottom of it. With a 3/8" allen/hex socket, a universal joint extention, and a 3/8" long handled wratchet with a flex head, I was able to loosen the plug. With my hand jammed in a far as I could, I could just turn the plug with my finger tips. A bunch of oil peed out. I reinstalled with sealant after cleaning the plug with a wire wheel and all threads with contact cleaner. The sealant made the plug slippery and nearly impossible to start in the threads again with such limited access. But, in the end I got it in and tight. I cleaned up the area with contact cleaner, and this morning went for a drive. NO MORE OIL LEAK!!!!!!

So....moral of the story: if you have an oil leak at the passenger side, rear corner of your V6, tracking down from above the oil pan joint, dripping off the alternator mounting bracket, the culprit is probably this treaded plug!
 
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