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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a technical enquiry.
Apparently our escapes, have a PCV valve for the crankcase.
My enquiry is: Has anyone ever, replaced their " PCV valve?."

The service tech explained, the function of this valve.
He said it was, unlikely i would need to replace it.
In the event i would need a new valve, the mechanic said the results shall be obvious.
My ' orange ', engine warning light would light up.

But the most obvious would be a, shockingly rough idle as in being felt and heard.
At the moment escape, idles very smooth.
Basically as in , i can hear and feel the competency.
Typical me was paranoid.
Because i have a thing about maintaining escape, i requested a fitting of new valve.
Unfortunately it is in a horrible position.
The starter motor was removed.
But then the problem was, that manifold would need to be disconnected.

The service tech, showed me the position.
Yes, i agree with him it is a ' Pig of a job ', just to install a new crankcase PCV valve.
So henceforth i cancelled, the fitting of PCV valve.
Anyway the idle, ticks over like a swiss watch.
 

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Never replaced mine, but the PCV valve replacement on the 4 cylinder engine sounds to be much more time consuming than the 6 cylinder engine.

3.0L Engine

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Disconnect the PVC tube from the PVC valve and position the tube aside.
3. Disconnect the PVC valve electrical connector.
4. Remove used PVC counterclockwise and discard.
5. Install new PVC valve by reverse.
 

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The pcv valve gets gummed up. On the 2.0L it's on the front of the engine in plain sight. I replaced mine & the rubber tubing last month. Replacing the pcv valve was easy, but the rubber elbow was difficult, since it was basically melted/welded onto the metal crankcase breather pipe. The job should've been done when I flushed the cooling system - there's a radiator hose in the way. The rubber tubing at the back of the engine was fairly simple to do.
 

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yes it is a pain in the butt. It can be done without removing the intake manifold. You will need a 7/8 12 point deep socket, an open ended 7/8 wrench, or a slim adjustable wrench. I did have to remove the air/throttle body and the decorative engine cover. The PCV valve does come out easier than it goes in. and it sits flush to the block when it's fully turned and installed.

Mine engine started to seep oil at the oil pan at 100k miles. So I decided that I would check the PCV Valve and it wasnt moveing freely and didnt rattle, I shook it very VERY hard and I could get it to move slightly inside. The new one rattled with little effort.

My engine ran perfect, with no engine light or spuddering to warn me of a clogged PCV. So I would change it. So you won't have to deal with oil pan or crankshaft leaks. :box: GOOD LUCK.
 
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