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2005 Escape 3.0L stuttering and throwing P0354 code. I replaced the plugs and COP, as it had never been done with 210k miles. Still throws the code. I swapped the COP in #4 with #5, cleared the codes, code came back. I grabbed a noid light and plugged in in to the connector for the #4 coil to see if it was getting the control signal from the pcm with the engine running, the noid light should have flickered on/off. It didn't, it stayed constant and was really bright. Tried the same method on #5 and the noid light flashed on/off like I expected and was dimmer. I shut the engine off, put the key in the on position, plugged the noid light back into the connector for #4 and it was steadily lit up, switch to # 5 and it didn't light up as I expected. I turned the key back off, unplugged the connector to the pcm, turned the key back to the on position, plugged the noid light back into #4 and it didn't light up. I think that the pcm is bad as if there was a short somewhere in the harness before the connector to the pcm it would have still lit up since this is a ground control circuit. I take it to a ford dealer, he runs the ids diagnostic and says that it isn't the pcm, but a "dead cyclinder", wouldn't explain further i.e. compression, ect... Just quoted an insane price for repairs. So just wanting more opinions as to what to might be going on before I go to buying a new pcm.

Also any suggestions for a pcm other then circuitboardmedics as they have burned me on a pcm for another car already, sent it in for repair and still haven't gotten it back, they have had it going on a year. Hence me buy the Escape.

The noid light idea I got from FordTechMakuloco. h*ttps://youtu.be/ho3Kyps2i34 (I broke the link with the *, didn't want the video showing in the post)
 

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There is no static noid test, the engine needs to be actively firing the coil.

I would suspect an open, an issue with the wiring, the connector at the coil. or at the PCM. Also, as you state, the driver in the PCMs for the coils are known to burn out due to issues with the coil, plug, or wiring.

The wire from the PCM should be the white/pink stripe (same color at the connector to the COP), maybe try the noid light to the connector, and see if there is anything obvious there, check continuity of the wire from the PCM to the coil.
 
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