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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently replaced the ecm in my 2005 3.0l v6, and I knew that I was going to have to do the programming of 2 keys to get my car to start. Before I replaced the ecm I only ever had one key, so I bought 2 new ones and cut them to match the one I had. I was checking them before I had a locksmith come out and do the programming to make sure that they would work in the door and also the ignition cylinder, to my surprise my car started right up with all the keys. I contacted the company that I got the ecm from and asked if they did a PATS delete on the ecm they sent me, they said no. After explaining that my car started without the keys being programmed, they were stumped as much as me, even offered to replace the ecm. Now with the second replacement ecm does the same, starts right up without any programming done for the keys. I also had bought new key fobs as I had only ever had one as well, tried the procedure of cycling the ignition 8 times to program the new ones as the owner's manual says, no luck. Call a locksmith out, explain what is going on, and that I need some key fobs programmed. He hooks up 2 different tools/tablets to try and program the keys. First tool doesn't even see an option for PATS, and the second one starts the process and fails almost immediately. He also tried programing 2 keys fobs that he had and couldn't get them to work either.

I have since pulled the trim from the column to look at the ignition switch, it is hooked up and parts number is right for the make/model, the transceiver ring is there, and plugged in so I am lost as to why its starts without the keys being programmed. I know that the key fob works with the Alarm/keyless system kit or smart junction box (parts.ford.com parts #15604 when doing parts search by make/model) but I know it isn't directly tied to PATS, and no I haven't gone under the dash to inspect it. I am just wondering if anyone has a clue to what is going on. I really don't want to spend what my local dealer wants just to look at my car. Any suggestions to point me in a direction would be much appreciated.
 

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it almost sounds like someone stashed the second key with PATS somewhere close to the ignition switch, or dug the chip out (I am not sure what style key you have). But it wouldn't be auto programmed into a new PCM/ECM, so that is weird.

I assume that the THEFT light on the dash blinks the way it should:
  • in lock position, it blinks every 2 seconds or so
  • when turning key to run, light is on solid for 3 seconds, then shuts off
If it continues to blink, or stay lit, there would be a problem (but opposite what you are seeing).

I don't think it seeing a key in proximity to the antenna used by PATS/Securilock would affect getting it into the mode to add/reprogram fobs.

All models in 2005 come with remote keyless entry, so an added module isn't required (and since you have the 3.0 it is at least an XLT anyways).

Having a unicorn PATS vehicle, I got a regular key cut to be able to troubleshoot an issue, and eventually have a spare when I got a very specific PATS key from the junk yard (it was cut for the junk yard key, but I could have it on the ring with the plain key and it worked to satisfy PATS).

I would be curious what a regular did with the THEFT light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had a Ford tech run the Ford IDS software on my car to see what was going on and make sure everything checked out after the ECM swap.
IDS shows no passcodes stored for any keys; this usually causes IDS to default too asking if you want to program new master keys, but it didn't.

Everything else checked out ok with the car and the new ECM. He also has the tuning software and ran it to see if the company I got the ECM from did a PATS delete, and from what he seen it didn't look to be the case, though he said he might not be able to tell in some instances.

I have repulled the trim to check things out again with the Ford tech and everything appears to be correct. He is completely stumped. Told me if I figured it out to send him a text letting him know what it was. He also told me that my old key fob should still be working and swapping out the ECM shouldn't affect it. That the keyless entry runs through the smart junction box/keyless system that is under the dash.

I also went to a local Ford dealer and had them look up the key fob using the VIN, the system didn't show any that would work. When they did it with year/model/engine it comes back with a 3 button 315mhz key fob, which we tried, and it didn't work. Parts guy mention that it was possible that I needed a 433mhz key fob, which Ford doesn't sell anymore for the year/make of my car and that is the reason it didn't come up in the system, and none of the ones I have tried work. I showed him the old one with the Ford logo on the back and parts/model i.d. numbers that used to work. He ran them through the system and could find ones with almost the same numbers except the last two characters being "AA" instead of "AB" like mine has. He also told me that changing out the ECM shouldn't have caused the key fob to stop working. Suggested that I get new batteries and retry it. Which I have done, bought a package of two from Walgreens, and it still don't work.

As for the theft light it blinks like it should and shuts off after the car starts. I even went and had a blank solid metal key cut after reading your post bangster, and the car starts right up, theft light shuts off with it. Doesn't make any sense I know.
I assume that the THEFT light on the dash blinks the way it should:
  • in lock position, it blinks every 2 seconds or so
  • when turning key to run, light is on solid for 3 seconds, then shuts off
If it continues to blink, or stay lit, there would be a problem (but opposite what you are seeing).

I would be curious what a regular did with the THEFT light.

It seems to me that when the company did the programming for the ECM, on two of them remind you, they accidently did a PATS delete somehow. As for the key fob, it might just be that the old one finally died from use, and that my car does need a weird 433mhz one that I can't seem to be able to get anymore. It just seems like that is the most likely scenario as cycling the key 8 times does cause the car to enter programing mode with the door locks cycling as they should, yet no key fobs will work. I am waiting to hear back from my locksmith who sent a message to ILCO to see if they had any key fobs that were 433mhz listed for my car, or any that would work based off the part/model i.d. numbers on that back of my old key fob. I also went by his shop and tried several others types of key fobs made by a company called "keyless systems" or something like that he buys from the online supplier USHARDWARE but had no luck.
 

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I would think it would be pretty easy to find a new compatible key fob for your 2005. While these are all junk yard diving, and 4 button (the fourth does nothing for SUVs), I have yet to find a pre 2013 car I can't program one of these for. The FCC ID is what you usually use to find them. Yes, I swap cases and buttons a lot, and the electronics rarely match the case, but even for vehicles that came with an IKT (key with the fob integrated) like my 2012 Fusion, I found a stand alone fob that worked, it just programmed in like you are doing, not automatically when the PATS part is paired.

The fact that the blank key works and the THEFT light is doing what it does is weird, no taped key in the column huh?

 
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Also many aftermarket eBay special fobs are both frequencies and you can change them by various key press methods (like you press and hold 2 buttons, and press the third one 6 times), however I didn't have much luck with one, I sent it back. I had better luck with recasing an OEM one. But I have done all sorts of Frankenstein's monster setups, my current Fusion key is actually a VW fob with a Ford key blank and a chip hot glued in the end (that flip key with the red silicone cover in my image). I also replaced the IKT (lower left) with a separate fob and key (that red cased fob and PATS key at the top).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I finally got two key fobs to work, both of them 4 button ones. I just kept cycling through a handful of them I had this morning and two of them programmed. One is from a Focus I had at one point, and the other is from a Toyota my friend use to have. I need to by new cases for them, but they work. It only took me trying around 30 of them to find any that would work. The PATS thing still confuses me, but I can live with it. My Escape is back on the road, I can lock and unlock it without having to go to the driver's door, and when the cat jumps on it, I don't have to go out and start it up to get the horn to stop blaring. Thankyou bangster for the responses, I will try to update this if I figure out the PATS thing, and please let me know if you come across something that might help with it.

And no, there isn't a taped key/chip tape or glued on the column. I really just don't get it, the theft light works right, I can physically see the transceiver ring, PATS shows in Ford IDS, but no passcodes, so I know the car is equipped with PATS, it just doesn't seem to work. To me the company I bought the ECM from deleted PATS on both of the ones I have gotten from them. I guess it is what I get for buying the cheapest ECM I could find, I wouldn't have even tried them if it wasn't for the fact that I could drive to their shop. But hey $280 for an ECM that has my car running again I really shouldn't complain.
 
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