[Reidermcf]

Hi all,

I converted my escape to electric and trying to get the electric power steering working on my 2010 escape. I think it waits on an ignition signal from the engine for the PCM to power the EPS motor which is why it doesn't run now since I basically operate my car in accessory mode. Does anyone have the pinout for this PCM? Like a PDF or image? I really just need to know the pinout for the middle connector that is for the engine wiring harness.

It's this model PCM: 2010 Ford Escape 2.5L Hybrid Engine Computer ECM ECU AM6A-12A650-DF | eBay

Also here's my youtube if you're curious about my project: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJ9hpFxka5utGt08fklUPRQ

 

[dwightbresemann]

Does this help? Let me know if you need more.

 

[Reidermcf]

That is EXACTLY what I was looking for. THANKS!! 👍

 

[dwightbresemann]

If you need any more help, feel free to ask.

 

[Reidermcf]

So I think pins 63 and 64 on the engine connector are what I'm looking for to spoof a successful ignition and make the PCM think the engine is running. Pin 63 is a 2.5v reference signal, and and pin 64 is 'Signal Return Engine' which I assume looks for a certain voltage when the engine is running.

When I short these two pins the voltage on pin 63 drops to 0.384v. Presumably there is a resistor or potentiometer of some sort between these two pins when in normal operation. Any idea what voltage Pin 64 needs to indicate the engine is running?

 

[dwightbresemann]

What sensor are you trying to spoof?

All 'reference' voltage is 5 volts. There are 3 parts to this circuit. 5 volts out from the PCM to the sensor. PCM ground to the sensor, not a body or battery ground, and a signal return to the PCM from the sensor. This return signal will be less than 5 volts.

3 wire sensors use an internal PCM ground. 2 wire sensors do not use a PCM ground, but body for ground.

When the key is first turned on, the PCM sends a small voltage signal down the 5 volt line to test the circuit.

 

[Reidermcf]

I thought that would be the case, but pin 63 has always read only 2.5v even before I started tinkering with it. Googled it and it sounded like that is maybe how it is for some model years of similar fords.

Thank you for explaining the two sensor types that is very helpful.

So my rudimentary understanding (almost more of an educated guess) is that pins 63 and 64 are for confirming that the engine is running. Pin 63 supplying voltage and pin 64 being the sensor. My original idea before your comment was to just put a resistor inline between 63 and 64, testing with a bunch of different resistors until pin 64 sees a voltage it likes. But that disregards grounding entirely, which seems like something I'd need to do at some point in this little circuit.

How would you advise emulating this without the actual sensor on hand?

 

[dwightbresemann]

What sensor are you trying to emulate? Crankshaft pickup? Camshaft pickup? A pressure sensor? I could follow the wiring diagram for pin 63 and 64 and find the sensor, but give me a clue.

 

[Reidermcf]

Basically whatever is needed for the PCM to think the engine is running.

I think pin 64 is the key: Pin 64 - Powertrain Signal Return Engine

That at least sounds like what I need but I have no idea what sensor that would correspond to.

 

[dwightbresemann]

Ok, I have an idea what you're looking for. Most likely a digital wave form. This is where you got your 2.5 volts from. The sensor itself is generating its own voltage. I'll trace the wiring for pin 64 and report back.

 

[Reidermcf]

I see -- thanks!

 

[dwightbresemann]

So speed control is cruise control inputs (pin 64). Pin 63 goes to the data link connector (DLC).

 

[dwightbresemann]

I would disconnect the battery for 10 minutes. Reconnect battery and crank engine for 10 sec with a full battery charge. Now scan all modules for codes and report back

 

[dwightbresemann]

Btw, does the engine crank? Crank/no-start? Is the anti-theft on? Did you relearn PATS for the new PCM?

 

[Reidermcf]

There's no engine to crank! I converted the powertrain to electric so now it's an electric motor bolted to the transmission and powered by batteries out of a wrecked Tesla. Still have a 12v battery as well though.

So I have only 2 of the 3 plugs connected at the moment, the engine wiring harness has been unplugged and removed as I don't see much of a point in keeping it around. It's the same PCM as the car had pre-conversion.

Also for clarification, it's pin 64 on the engine wiring harness. Realizing I should have been more clear there. Pin 64 here:

 

[dwightbresemann]

Victor Frankenstein, you live!

Is this the circuit you're looking for?

 

[Reidermcf]

Haha!

Yeah that looks like it -- so I guess it would be the camshaft position sensor. Makes sense, if the cam is spinning then the engine must be on right!

I have the old engine sitting outside, it's been out there for a year and a half now and is looking a little worse for wear (no one seemed interested in a 2.5L i4 with 155k miles lol) but I think it still has this sensor on it. I'll take a look tomorrow.

So next step is how do I make use of this sensor: given the description in the screenshot you provided, I am thinking it would output some sort of sinusoidal voltage signal corresponding to camshaft position. So maybe the easiest solution here is to get a tiny 12v motor, set it to run at 1000rpm or whatever, and just have the sensor track that output shaft. Or maybe a little PWM controller would do the trick. I'll have to test and find out.

 

[dwightbresemann]

No PWM involved. Simple 5 volts, to 0 volts digital signal to match the camshaft sprocket tone ring. The bumps on the phaser is what the PCM is looking for. Of course, it varies with camshaft speed.

 

[Reidermcf]

So could I emulate the signal by just switching the 5v on and off at an frequency that the ECU would take as an acceptable RPM? Or do I need to work thru the sensor?

 

[dwightbresemann]

There are automotive waveform generators on ebay and Amazon. The problem is the space in the waveform to cylinder #1. The PCM needs to know where #1 is. Generally, this done with a gap in the waveform. I don't think a signal generator will do this.

And you'll also need the crankshaft waveform to interact with the camshaft waveform to make the PCM happy.

The best way is to find a running 2.5L and copy the signals to a chip for playback.

You'll see the one tone ring on the harmonic balancer and the other on the camshaft phaser.