Ford Escape Automobiles Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Preface:
Planning on moving out of state, so I was just looking for an suv in the same price range as a 1-way Uhaul(around 5k). My only requirements were: it needed to be 4x4, rust free, low miles, moonroof.

Vehicle:
2004 Escape Limited V6
4x4
123k miles
Roof Rack
Running Boards
Stereo

Paid:
$4600

The body/undercarriage are in immaculate condition. Not a speck of rust. Apparently it's been in a dry climate its whole life. The interior has light wear and tear appropriate for the age. It ran beautifully on an almost 3h drive home on the freeway, and other than a beeping from the dash that eventually goes away, and an oil leak, I wasn't worried. Right off the bat, I knew Id be dropping some money since I wanted all the routine maintenance done asap, so id have a fresh baseline moving forward.

Just got a call from my mechanic...
  1. Every seal that can leak oil, is leaking. (mech says just replace the seals in vicinity of more important fix's)
  2. The airbags are non-op due to a sensor/module that'll be big money to replace. (That was the beeping, not a dealbreaker)
  3. Accessory pully's need replacing(routine)
  4. Rear shocks need replacing(routine)
  5. Water pump(or maybe power steering pump) needs replacing(routine)
  6. Spark plugs(routine)
I don't feel scammed. I got the important things that I wanted. I guess I'm just bummed that it's not in tip-top shape. The mechanic was all doom and gloom, and pushed "lets get the maintenance done, and see how she runs for the next 1000 miles before we dig any deeper", which only makes me worry more. Of course my dad, always the optimist, was all "So what?! Keep it topped off on oil, and drive it! It's almost 20 years old!"

Any words of encouragement? Lol.
 

· Premium Member
2020 Ttanium Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
Joined
·
775 Posts
Preface:
Planning on moving out of state, so I was just looking for an suv in the same price range as a 1-way Uhaul(around 5k). My only requirements were: it needed to be 4x4, rust free, low miles, moonroof.

Vehicle:
2004 Escape Limited V6
4x4
123k miles
Roof Rack
Running Boards
Stereo

Paid:
$4600

The body/undercarriage are in immaculate condition. Not a speck of rust. Apparently it's been in a dry climate its whole life. The interior has light wear and tear appropriate for the age. It ran beautifully on an almost 3h drive home on the freeway, and other than a beeping from the dash that eventually goes away, and an oil leak, I wasn't worried. Right off the bat, I knew Id be dropping some money since I wanted all the routine maintenance done asap, so id have a fresh baseline moving forward.

Just got a call from my mechanic...
  1. Every seal that can leak oil, is leaking. (mech says just replace the seals in vicinity of more important fix's)
  2. The airbags are non-op due to a sensor/module that'll be big money to replace. (That was the beeping, not a dealbreaker)
  3. Accessory pully's need replacing(routine)
  4. Rear shocks need replacing(routine)
  5. Water pump(or maybe power steering pump) needs replacing(routine)
  6. Spark plugs(routine)
I don't feel scammed. I got the important things that I wanted. I guess I'm just bummed that it's not in tip-top shape. The mechanic was all doom and gloom, and pushed "lets get the maintenance done, and see how she runs for the next 1000 miles before we dig any deeper", which only makes me worry more. Of course my dad, always the optimist, was all "So what?! Keep it topped off on oil, and drive it! It's almost 20 years old!"

Any words of encouragement? Lol.
Your dad is right, minor leaks don't need to be addressed right away, brake fluid, engine oil, and coolant are the vital fluids.

it sounds like it just needs some maintenance, don't be discouraged!

you can get control modules from salvage yards for pretty cheap… I have not heard of too many airbag modules going out… Meaning, if you find one it will probably work.

water pump, and power steering, and accessorpulley replacements are not routine. I can't believe that they are all failing. I had over 190,000 miles on mine when I sold it, and the only thing it ever needed was an idler pulley.

are your rear shocks leaking? Is your car really bouncy going down the road? I am not convinced on the ethics of your mechanic.

if all of your 'seals that can leak' are leaking oil, I would verify this by throwing a hunk of cardboard underneath your car overnight, and see what stains you see in the morning… And whether it is a trace amount of liquid, or it is something needing to be addressed now.

if you do not have an owners manual to consult, they are available online. I would look at regular maintenance intervals…
I drove a Chevy citation across the nation, that needed a quart of oil at every fill up. It made it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
[QUOTE="Mountain Escape, post: 602638, member:
[/QUOTE]

If I remember correctly, the pulleys are ok. It’s the belt, the water/power steering pumps, oil pan/valve cover gaskets, oil change, and the shocks are leaking,
 

· Premium Member
2020 Ttanium Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
Joined
·
775 Posts
If I remember correctly, the pulleys are ok. It’s the belt, the water/power steering pumps, oil pan/valve cover gaskets, oil change, and the shocks are leaking,
You can inspect the serpentine belt yourself, within 1 inch there should be no more than 16 visible cracks(you can YouTube how to do this)
I can believe seepage on the oil pan/valve cover… But how much oil does your vehicle go down on the dipstick in between gas fill ups?

I can't believe that both the water pump, and the power steering pump had failed/are leaking.

Have you ever heard the saying get more than one doctors opinion?
It really applies for auto mechanics as well

you can change your rear shocks yourself with a set of sockets, and about an hours worth of your time in your driveway.
If you do not own a set of car ramps, back your car up into your driveway and stop when the rear wheels are just on the curb. Maybe backing up to the curb, without going off of it, would be easier…
You need to see how much oil you are losing between fuel refills
Is your power steering stiff?
Is your car overheating? If the pulleys are fine, you don't need to replace the pumps.

based on your second description of what's going on, I would say you are due regular 100,000 mile maintenance. Serpentine belt, tune-up, all air filters, fluid changes, and chassis inspection. Look at the battery installed, there should be a sticker telling you the date of installation, they are only good for about 5 to 6 years. Just so you don't get a surprise when traveling.

I would turn your steering wheel all the way to one side, and inspect your tires for even wear. Make sure you do not need an alignment, or parts necessary to hold the alignment before travel.

you can tell if you need an alignment by the car pulling off the road one side or the other... like you're holding the wheel to keep the car going straight.

you were looking for a replacement for a U-Haul… I believe your car will get you where you were going, completely loaded, and then some after without doing all this work your mechanic is telling you is necessary.

for the money your mechanic is talking, you can go stick a receiver hitch on your vehicle at a U-Haul center...
and with a U-Haul trailer, you could haul more stuff than you believed to wherever you're going

stay positive, I think you got a nice vehicle.

Google search 100,000 mile maintenance on Ford escape
 

· Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions! I havent owned a car in over a decade, so I forgot what a pain it is to have to take things to a shop to have work done. If i had my tools, or the space, id be doing all this myself. But, i live downtown where parking is scarce, and no one I know has a driveway.

The shop is one of the better ones in town with great reviews, and is always busy.
 

· Premium Member
2020 Ttanium Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
Joined
·
775 Posts
Thanks for all the suggestions! I havent owned a car in over a decade, so I forgot what a pain it is to have to take things to a shop to have work done. If i had my tools, or the space, id be doing all this myself. But, i live downtown where parking is scarce, and no one I know has a driveway.

The shop is one of the better ones in town with great reviews, and is always busy.
Just a suggestion, you can rent a garage sized space in a storage unit facility for $100 a month
You generally have to bring a generator, and heater to work in a space like that

I used to do work in car wash bays, if I knew I could get it done quickly, and not be there longer than an hour or so

most chain auto parts stores have loan a tool programs… Meaning, you would only have to buy the parts, and the garage space
 
  • Like
Reactions: coastalviews
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top