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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As some of you may have seen in my previous thread asking for assistance, I got my rear wiper fixed. Now that's over with, I think it would be awesome if I could get my wiper washer back there working too.

All I hope my issue involves is a disconnected spot. Apparently the fluid I had in there wasn't as anti-freeze as I had thought it to be, and now when I hit the washer fluid it sprays all over up inside the dash.

I traced it to it's source. By pulling out the glove box and reaching way up past the defroster vent I can feel the tube on the inside of the door frame, very close to where the top of the dash and door frame meet. If I hit the washer it sprays my fingers, given the full blast amount it's spraying I hope it is just disconnected.

How do I get in there, from the inside, from the outside, under the hood, under the wheel well? Am I SOL? Any assistance is appreciated, I think if I get this fixed all my luxury items will be working. (Thank goodness I have an XLS.)
 

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From reading past threads on this issue, I'm sure the pump and hoses are located in the passenger wheel well.
So you will need to remove the splash shield and trace the lines from there.
 

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I am having this exact same issue. The line for the wiper fluid seems to run behind that pillar that runs between the windshield and passenger side door. I'm guessing I/we would have to remove that pillar in order to access the tube. If the hole in the tube/ disconnect is further down behind the dash we may be SOL. I haven't take much time to look into it, but I will let you know what I find for sure.
 

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This was a common problem, but mainly in the Escape's first year of production.

First, you should repair or replace the hose. It will obviously be easier to repair it if you can find the leak.

http://tinyurl.com/yj2xgdq

I was more than a little surprised how little that entire hose assembly costs. $6.93? I was expecting $66.93.

Anyway, the service DVD doesn't show how to route the hose, but I can explain it.

First, you need to remove the right front wheel/tire, then the front of the splash shield.

The rear wiper washer pump uses the washer fluid from the same reservior as the front washer pump. You'll see the reservoir on the front side of the wheel opening, and the rear washer pump is on the left side.



The hose from that pump goes through a grommet in the firewall, and I think that there's a coupling near the glovebox area. If there's no coupling, then you have a break in the hose. Either way, if you look at the diagram on the parts.com page, the hose seems to have four push-in connectors on the inside of the firewall, near where you found the leak. The hose then continues under the front and rear door scuff plates, over the rear wheel opening, and up the right side rear pillar to the liftgate hinge area. It's not very difficult to remove the scuff plates and the inside rear body panel.

I wish the service DVD had a better description of this, but that image is all I can find.

I removed the left-side panels when I installed a remote fuel door on my 2005 Escape. That might help you with the disassembly of the right side.

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=397&p=6339&hilit=fuel+door#p6244

For only $6.93 plus shipping, you should replace the entire hose. And the new hose probably has the "fixes" that Ford has implemented since the early models were built.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Awesome, thanks for the info JP. It went and got cold again here in KY :frozen: so I'll have to postpone working on this. :( (Garages must be nice.)

I agree on replacement, it would be the best route, but I'm not sure I feel confident in my vehicle repair skills. In the experience I've had so far nothing ever goes as planned and never goes back like it came off. (Me and Murphy think a lot alike sometimes.) I will try and see if I can access that tube assembly enough I feel confident to replace it, if I do I probably will. If I can't however, I will probably try to go a quick fix route now I know 2 places I can intersect the line, as in find some tubing to patch the section that was cut off. For some reason I imagined that tube running over the headliner, now I know where it runs I'm in better shape than I thought I was.

Thanks everyone, I'll post back after I work on it some and have more to report.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Kentucky weather is crazy, last weekend below freezing, this weekend 60 degrees and beautiful.

Just got back in from working on this, it is fixed! :yahoo:

I removed the kick plate and all I found was a wiring harness, no tubing. So I went to where I imagined it would be. I removed the grab handle on the inclined part of the door frame and removed that interior cover on the door pillar.

Once inside there, the only thing going through that was the washer tube, and my problem was very clear. Apparently they assembled it with some kind of tape, I found a loose piece inside, the adhesive degraded and let go of the coupling, and the hard plastic type tubing in there had pulled out.

I felt around inside the dash going in threw the glove box which just swings out of the way by pushing in the sides and pulling it on out. I found the part of the hose going up and pushed it on out the top into the door pillar. I pushed the tubing back into the coupling (tested the washer, worked) and then sealed it back with fresh tape. The connection is under a bit of strain due to Ford not giving slack on the tubes. If anyone at Ford (or any vehicle maker) would ever listen one thing I would ask is that tubes, wires, and anything that connects anything have a little slack. I put the cover back on, but the tubing wasn't as neatly tucked in there as before, since it was tight and had to change course.

All in all had I known all this going in, would have taken 10 minutes, even with the exploring only 30 or so. Easy job, wish I had done it sooner. If it happens again, I can just go in and tape it back.

Thanks everyone for the assistance, if I can be of any help to anyone doing this as well just let me know.
 

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Well, I agree with you Airmapper... Wish I would have taken time to fix this earlier. I simply removed the pillar trim and found the hose detached from the coupling. Re-inserted it, applied some fresh electrical tape, and now I'm good to do. Seems like I had plenty of slack to work with however. Now I just need to get a new rear wiper blade. Mine's shot! I'm guessing Rock Auto is the best place to get the rear blade? I have a feeling the dealer will want an arm and a leg, and I don't think auto stores carry them. What do you all think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ISU01XCapeXLT said:
Now I just need to get a new rear wiper blade. Mine's shot! I'm guessing Rock Auto is the best place to get the rear blade? I have a feeling the dealer will want an arm and a leg, and I don't think auto stores carry them. What do you all think?
I got one from Advance Auto, they had to get one (order it, or I think they got it from a neighboring store.) Anyway they can get it and it works, I have complete glass contact on the swipe.

I just found this on a Google search, so I don't know anything about this seller, but this is the wiper I got from Advance. I think it was about $10, which is about what it will cost by the time you get it shipped anyway.

http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/WC/ ... oogle+Base
 

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i had the same washer leak on my 2001 mazda tribute.
thanks for the info. i removed the passenger A pillar cover and there it was! a disconnected water hose!

i inserted the upper tube back in and used electrical tape to seal it.
10 minute job!

here's how it looks like.



up close

 

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Thanks for the pictures Opie!
 

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Just a thought.........instead of using tape, why not use shrink tube? Seems to me it would be a better fix, and last a lot longer. You could even double shrink tube it for a thicker fit....if you know what I mean.
 

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I don't know about electrical tape and longevity with washer fluid...doesn't sound like the two terms should be used in the same sentence if you know what I mean. Heat shrink tubing on the otherhand is not something that I would have thought of and I am an Electronics Tech. by training, if not practice.

Let's keep an eye on that tubing opieNC, eh? :shades: If it works, it's cool! If not :cry: , well you know. :censor:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Great pics Opie, thanks for adding them.

I used electrical tape, and mine is still holding. I doubt the fluid ever contacts the tape, there should be very little fluid pressure on the connection. If I have to do it again though, I'll use duct or gorilla tape. Shrink tubing sounds like a great idea, but honestly I won't make a special trip to town to buy some for a one off job that takes 5 minutes and can be fixed for a year or more with stuff I keep in the vehicle at all times anyway. However if I had that on hand I would probably use it.
 

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yes, i thought of heat shrink, but was in a bit of a hurry so i just used electrical tape.
i don't think there's much pressure at that joint.

one could also use self-fusing butyl tape, used for sealing antenna coax connectors.
we'll see if the electrical tape holds up.

tnx!
 

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opieNC said:
yes, i thought of heat shrink, but was in a bit of a hurry so i just used electrical tape.
i don't think there's much pressure at that joint.

one could also use self-fusing butyl tape, used for sealing antenna coax connectors.
we'll see if the electrical tape holds up.

tnx!
You could also just zip tie the hose to the coupler for a secure fit.
 

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Glad to see this up here. During our most recent ice storm, I have come across this problem. Rather, my girlfriend did when I hit the rear washer, and she was soaked with wiper fluid.
It was kind of funny, for me at least, but I suppose I should get around to fixing it. :shrug:
 

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theescaperoute said:
Glad to see this up here. During our most recent ice storm, I have come across this problem. Rather, my girlfriend did when I hit the rear washer, and she was soaked with wiper fluid.
It was kind of funny, for me at least, but I suppose I should get around to fixing it. :shrug:
Are you still with the same girlfriend?
 
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