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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok.. so the image in my last post won't work so I'll write it all out.

Beware.. if you make a miss-step you can render your remote start inoperable and will require a trip to the dealer if you can't figure it our yourself. IF you hold the remote button down for 3 seconds you will reset the remote start system to factory default. Factory defaul will NOT allow the Escape to start. Follow the following steps closley and you shouldn't have a problem.

ALSO - By using this method you will be rendering MYKey useless when the remote start is used.

1) Remove the kick panel ubder the steering column. Locate the Remote Start Module (RMST from now on). It should be behind the panel where your right knee would be when sitting in the driver seat. You need to follow the big cable that runs from module and find two things: A) LED that won't be illuminated B) Black Button (RMST Bypass Button)

2) Once you have located your RMST, LED, and Button make sure the button is somewhere you can press it while seated in the drivers seat. It would help if you could see the LED.

3) Climb in the drivers seat and close the door. While pressing the BRAKE pedal turn the ignition key to RUN (NOT start). Once the key is in RUN posistion press the RMST Bypass Button for 10 seconds. Keep pressing the button until you hear 3 rapid horn honks.

4) Once you hear the honks release the RMST Bypass Button and the brake pedal.

5) Now press the RMST bypass Button and you will hear 4 honks. Press the RMST bypass button again and you will hear 5 honks.

6) Press and release the brake pedal and you will hear one honk. Keep pressing and releasing the brake pedal until you hear SEVEN honks. Now look under the dash at the LED you located earlier. It should be illuminated. Once you verify the LED is illuminated press the button on your REMOTE FOB ONCE. The LED should turn off. Once the LED is off you are done. Turn the ignition off and try your remote start.

If you use this and it works for you drop me a note. If you have any questions feel free to send me a PM
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here is a funny story.. I am going in to my dealership this week to teach them how to do this.

I wonder what it is worth? A couple free oil changes?
 

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Teaching the dealership...that's awesome! :clap: :thumb:

I've been meaning to try this programming change myself, but I don't want to make a lot of noise on my block with all the horn honking. I might take it to a country road where I can pull over and do it without drawing attention. That, or maybe disconnect the horn and temporarily wire a LED in its place so I can count blinks instead of honks. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the horn honki is nothing more than a small blip. It is a very short pulse. It shouldn't upset any of your neighbours. It also takes less than two min. to do the programming. Finding the button and LED take the most time.
 

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Thanks for the tip!!!

This is one valuable post!
 

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I tried this morning, and we have success! Thanks for the excellent instructions.

For others who want to try this, here are some visual aids for getting to the button and LED...

To remove the panel under the steering wheel, pull the top firmly downward until the clips release. The second picture will give you a better idea of what you're up against regarding clips.


Once the panel is down, it pulls easily off the hinge points at the bottom.


Next, remove these four 10mm bolts, and the metal cover that they're holding.


Removing the cover reveals the RMST module (black box toward the right), the LED (upper circled) and the button (lower circled).


Here's a better view of the button.


At this point, follow OneFastBike's instructions and it's easy peasy!

A small mirror is useful for viewing the LED while sitting in the driver's seat. I have a small mirror on a telescopic rod that I knew would come in handy one day. :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thanks for adding the visual aids!

I'm glad it worked out for you :)
 

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I'm sorry for resurrecting this old thread and will gladly start a new one if I'm supposed to.

Mom called today and offered to have a remote starter put in my Escape for Christmas. I've heard that if I go to the Ford dealer, they'll just send my car out to a local car audio place to have the install done. I don't have a problem having a car audio place do the install, but I want the Ford system put in my Escape; I don't want an aftermarket system given the complexity of today's car's circuitry. I've also read and heard stories of headaches caused by hack jobs. How do I avoid problems? Should I just order the accessory through my dealer? Here's a link to unit listed on Ford's website: http://www.fordvehicles.com/suvs/escape/accessories/#page=Feature5

Also, I installed a remote start in my first car by myself so I would be willing to undertake the installation myself if the Ford kit has a good set of instructions. Has anyone installed the Ford system themselves? I also remembering reading something about Bronze, Silver, and Gold versions of remote start; what is that about?

Finally, what happens with the keyfobs? My parents had remote starters installed in their past two Subarus when they bought them new. The Subaru keyfob solution was not an elegant one. There was a separate ignition key, a separate fob for unlock/ lock/ trunk/ and then a second fob with only a remote starter button. Too much crap for one car IMHO.

I would greatly prefer a single keyfob combo that had everything together.
 

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1) I also fixed the MyKey remote start problem with the above method (minus the part about removing bolts and stuff . . . my led was accessible by just removing the kick panel).

2) You do get a separate one-button fob for the remote start. I don't see a way to get around it given the integrated fob on the key.
 

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Does anyone have any insight on this? TTT

By the way, I was at a Ford dealer yesterday with my friend who was picking up her new Fiesta and I stopped by the service department to find out about the remote start. They quote me $299 for the parts and another $250 for labor so around $550 in total.

What do you guys think?
 

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Mantruck101 said:
Does anyone have any insight on this? TTT

By the way, I was at a Ford dealer yesterday with my friend who was picking up her new Fiesta and I stopped by the service department to find out about the remote start. They quote me $299 for the parts and another $250 for labor so around $550 in total.

What do you guys think?
It actually looks exactly like the small fob in the picture of the Subaru keys.

As for the cost, I can't personally say. I wasn't willing to pay extra for remote start (now that we have a garage at home and I park in an underground garage at work), and the dealership didn't want to find an indentical Escape without the system already installed, so I got mine for free. If remote start was important for me, I would consider the Ford system. We have an aftermarket remote start on our 2005, and it works well. The Ford system works equally well (with the MyKey fix). I would probably choose the Ford system again for the 2010 because the aftermarket systems come with a normal key fob with lock, unlock, and start buttons--perfect for the 2005 because we just replaced the factory fob with the remote start fob. Given the inegrated fob on the 2010, I would not want a duplicate fob.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The main reason I went with the dealer installed remote start was the factory warranty. There are remote starts out there with some very slick features but they may void your electrical warranty.

For me the best part of the remote start is the ability to remove my key and leave the truck running (with A/C) if I have to run in to a store on a HOT summer day and I have my dog in the truck.
 

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Thanks for the information, Michael. I appreciate your input. I wish I could have gotten it for free.

Onefastbike, do you mind me asking how much it was to install the Ford remote start in your Escape? I was quoted ~$550 and would like to know if that's a decent price or not.

Thanks everybody.
 

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Just registered and logged in to say "THANK YOU!!!!" whoever you are, that came up
with this fix. I was getting very frustrated :rant: . I had jumped through hoops trying to fix my daughters RMST on 2010 escape. Your instructions were very clear. I went through the procedure at 8:00 pm in the dark. WORKED LIKE A CHAMP!!. I was very relieved and happy to
say the least. May god bless you. And to expand on your mirror idea, I used my wifes makeup
compact tied to my shoe. Thanks again! SUNCAP
 

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It's a year later, but I've finally decided to go ahead with this mod. Ford Accessories's website lists two "factory" options: I'm springing for the bi-directional system instead of the simpler one-way system.

http://accessories.ford.com/vehicles/es ... start.html

Can anyone confirm that this MyKey fix works with the bi-directional system too? It seems that the posters in this thread have the one-way system.
 

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Mantruck101 said:
It's a year later, but I've finally decided to go ahead with this mod. Ford Accessories's website lists two "factory" options: I'm springing for the bi-directional system instead of the simpler one-way system.

http://accessories.ford.com/vehicles/es ... start.html

Can anyone confirm that this MyKey fix works with the bi-directional system too? It seems that the posters in this thread have the one-way system.
99% sure the programming options are the same for both.
 

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lilblue said:
Mantruck101 said:
It's a year later, but I've finally decided to go ahead with this mod. Ford Accessories's website lists two "factory" options: I'm springing for the bi-directional system instead of the simpler one-way system.

http://accessories.ford.com/vehicles/es ... start.html

Can anyone confirm that this MyKey fix works with the bi-directional system too? It seems that the posters in this thread have the one-way system.
99% sure the programming options are the same for both.
Awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The programming manual that I ordered from Code Systems has the same steps for both.
 

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I just want to confirm that this works for the bi-directional system too.

Side-note #1: I turned on my interior lights with the instrument cluster dimmer switch while doing this reprogramming as it was dark outside and I wanted some light. Everything seemed to program correctly but when I finished, my Escape would not start with the remote start fob. It gave me three short honks instead. I delved into the remote start owner's manual and the troubleshooting section said that 3 short honks means that a door is open. After slamming all 4 doors and the hatch several times, I realized that I left the interior lights on.

The wiring for the remote start must be interfaced with the interior lights to determine if a door is open. Once I switched the interior lights off, the remote start worked again and did not shut off when I opened a door. Just a tidbit to hopefully prevent someone from pulling their hair out!!

Side-note #2: This reprogramming also enables the "quick stop" feature. If you're running errands and want to leave your Escape running via remote start, it's now possible.

(1) Put your Escape in Park and take your foot off the brake pedal.
(2) Press the remote start button on your RS keyfob twice.
(3) You can now remove your key and your Escape will stay running while you run in the post office/ grocery store/ etc. and the 10 minute timer starts (or 15 minutes if you reprogrammed it).
(4) Get out and lock your Escape via keyfob after closing the driver's door. (Escape won't lock if driver's door is opening and engine is running).
(5) When you return to your Escape, it will act like it a "normal" remote start.

I also traveled down to my Uncle's house and reprogrammed his 2011 Escape with remote start for him too. Total time spent on BOTH Escapes was about a half hour.

The hardest part honestly is finding that little black button on the RS wiring harness. I didn't bother to find the LED as it really isn't necessary to see the LED since the horn honks.
 
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