[metalic_gingerale13]

2013 Escape 1.6L
Was throwing P0135 but I'm a bad car owner and let it go for too long. Most recent OBD check threw P2626 code (Upstream B1,S1), so I replaced the part. Used NGK part. Now it won't start or even make sounds for ignition.

For context of my procedure, I removed the battery, the air filter housing and unplugged the MAF. The Batter Junction Box connector (I think- C1035C is the designation in a diagram) was in the way to I unplugged that as well. After replacing the part I put everything back.

I tried to run the relearning idle/fuel trim but the error code "Engine Fault Service Now" won't let the car proceed to ignition. I can turn the key all the way forward but nothing happens.

I also tried resetting the battery with a method from YT: Turn on brights X5, then press breaks X3 and wait for battery light to blink.
- There is no illuminated battery light so nothing to blink.
Could be bogus but I'm not a technician.

I have the Hynes manual and am competent enough to do minimal maintenance.

Any suggestions or guidance would be great.

 

[Mountain Escape]

2013 Escape 1.6L
Was throwing P0135 but I'm a bad car owner and let it go for too long. Most recent OBD check threw P2626 code (Upstream B1,S1), so I replaced the part. Used NGK part. Now it won't start or even make sounds for ignition.

For context of my procedure, I removed the battery, the air filter housing and unplugged the MAF. The Batter Junction Box connector (I think- C1035C is the designation in a diagram) was in the way to I unplugged that as well. After replacing the part I put everything back.

I tried to run the relearning idle/fuel trim but the error code "Engine Fault Service Now" won't let the car proceed to ignition. I can turn the key all the way forward but nothing happens.

I also tried resetting the battery with a method from YT: Turn on brights X5, then press breaks X3 and wait for battery light to blink.
- There is no illuminated battery light so nothing to blink.
Could be bogus but I'm not a technician.

I have the Hynes manual and am competent enough to do minimal maintenance.

Any suggestions or guidance would be great.

Put the old parts back in for now, at least with it running, you can do diagnosis
Resetting the electrical systems is done by disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes, touching the positive and negative cables to deplete capacitors… Then reconnect. When you turn your ignition on, give it a 30 second delay before you start it.

 

[tomw]

If the only part you replaced was an O2 sensor, that is not likely to cause a 'no start'. My donut bet would be that you disconnected something elsewhere, such as within the PDB or BJB, and it did not get re-connected.
I would suggest going over everything you took apart, and if an electrical connector, disconnecting again, matching to make sure you put it back where you found it, and re-connecting.
One wire on the starter relay or the starter solenoid can prevent the engine from even cranking(turning the crankshaft), much less starting. That particular wire is used by the PATS, or was, to disable the starter.
tom

 

[metalic_gingerale13]

Okay still getting "Engine Fault Service Now" message on my dashboard MC. Key will turn passed acc but nothing happens.

What I have done:
I put everything back, then broke it down and checked all wire harnesses/clips for exposed or broken wires. Found nothing, yet. Unsure exactly where the starter relay wire is (have Haynes book, not sure how to follow the wire diagram as it associates to the wires in the engine bay).

Tried to reinstall old sensor. Nothing. Reinstalled new unit.

Checked fuses. Nada

I know I'm missing something. What other diagnostic routes might be taken by a pro?

 

[tomw]

On the instrument panel, do you have a flashing 'PATS' lignt? The Passive AntiTheft System is supposed to flash a light when the key is out of the ignition. If you do, when you insert the key into the ignition, it should turn off. If no flashing PATS, I think the starter is disabled.
One thought is that you may have a failed fuse possibly caused by something touching something, even for an instant, that should not be touching. I would check the fuses in the box under the hood, and also inside the cab. You can use a grounded test light with probe. Connect to battery ground and make sure by touching the '+' terminal with the pointy end. Then touch both sides of each fuse in the small opening in the plastic cover. The light should light on each side of the fuse, and if it only lights on one, likely the fuse has done its job, and melted before letting the wires melt their insulation. Replace with one of the same value.
I think there is a secondary fuse box inside, but have never looked. I would check it also if you don't find a popped fuse under hood.
tom

 

[Mountain Escape]

Okay still getting "Engine Fault Service Now" message on my dashboard MC. Key will turn passed acc but nothing happens.

What I have done:
I put everything back, then broke it down and checked all wire harnesses/clips for exposed or broken wires. Found nothing, yet. Unsure exactly where the starter relay wire is (have Haynes book, not sure how to follow the wire diagram as it associates to the wires in the engine bay).

Tried to reinstall old sensor. Nothing. Reinstalled new unit.

Checked fuses. Nada

I know I'm missing something. What other diagnostic routes might be taken by a pro?

I am surprised you're not throwing more than a couple codes

though I am not familiar with them. It should be your answer.
Your engine won't start as a default when there is a major problem, loss of fuel pressure/leak-fire danger, or no engine oil pressure… no coolant?

 

[metalic_gingerale13]

Update: one fuse was blown but it was for the door lock system. Changed nothing.
I can't connect my ODB to see if any new codes are shown.
The rest of the fuses were fine. Going to check the relays next if I can get them out.

While looking through the engine bay, no wires or plugs were damaged.

I wasn't able to find anything about a PATS light. My user manual does not show the image but the fuse for it was fine. I'm curious if the ignition relay is out.

The car ran okay before I took out the sensor. It had a rough idle and was louder than normal (thinking I may have to change the cat soon too). I can't thing of any damage that would cause the Engine fault from what I did.

Will update if I figure it out, or the mechanic that looks at it and tells me what's up.

Thanks all for the tips. Not giving up yet.

 

[Mountain Escape]

Update: one fuse was blown but it was for the door lock system. Changed nothing.
I can't connect my ODB to see if any new codes are shown.
The rest of the fuses were fine. Going to check the relays next if I can get them out.

While looking through the engine bay, no wires or plugs were damaged.

I wasn't able to find anything about a PATS light. My user manual does not show the image but the fuse for it was fine. I'm curious if the ignition relay is out.

The car ran okay before I took out the sensor. It had a rough idle and was louder than normal (thinking I may have to change the cat soon too). I can't thing of any damage that would cause the Engine fault from what I did.

Will update if I figure it out, or the mechanic that looks at it and tells me what's up.

Thanks all for the tips. Not giving up yet.

The Pats light is just a little red flashing light in the bottom left corner of your dash usually, that lets people know your vehicle is armed. it maybe flashes every 30 seconds or so.

Based upon what you are describing, I would almost suggest your body ground, or your engine ground inspection would be next. I believe the body ground is underneath the power distribution box.
When you turn your key to on, not start, do you hear all of the sensors and capacitors firing up? Usually you can hear the fuel pump pressurize.

have you pulled your 12 V battery, and had it checked for load? This test can only be performed while removed from the vehicle. It is free at most chain auto parts stores.