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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Some time ago my rear wiper gave out. I attempted to get my mechanic to fix this, but he said it had become tight and he feared he would break the back glass out. Of course we checked the fuses and such, I believe those components are working and power is reaching the rear plug. While he may have been doing it correctly, I didn't understand how he was going about removing the motor. He was attempting to twist on the shaft with a set of pliers, but I have not been able to visualize how that will remove anything.

I found this LINK that jpark posted in another thread on wiper parts. However it's for a newer Escape than mine. (My Escape's info is in my sig and on my forum user badge.)

I'm thinking the wiper arm cap needs to come off, where you can remove the nut holding the arm on, then remove a nut farther down the shaft, maybe under the seal cap. Then remove the bolts holding it from the interior of the case and slide it out of the housing. But seems to me there is more to it, and removing that arm cap looks like it needs special tools or has some method of removing without damaging it that I've not been able to figure out.

It's too cold to work on this here for the time being, but if I can figure out how I'm thinking I can do this myself when it warms up. I already have the motor and been packing it around in the back for a while now. A new wiper blade and I should have a clean rear glass once again. (My washer fluid hose is busted somewhere, but that's a project of it's own for another day.)

Any ideas or information on how to go about removing the old motor and what tools I will need would be appreciated. I can provide pics or more info as needed.
 

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Hi.
I'm doing it wright now...Local shop tolled me $75 for motor and $50-labor
I bought motor for $45. I already changed it but I messed up the nut (# 8 on your link) so I ordered it from a dealer, paid $10. I will try to do some pictures. It's not a big deal, the main problem - taking of that nut (in my case). I will tell you more after I finish mine...
 

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Thanks.
Here is what dealer gave me...by the way it wasn't a nut, I ruined the spinning part of the motor, so with some silicone help and new nut its working OK now.
You will need to take the cap off, disconnect the plug, check your new motor than unscrew 2 bolts from inside part of the motor, one is #10 .Than take the wiper off(You might need a WD40. pull it back a little, there is a metal clip on the bottom, take a flat screwdriver and move that clip a side, you not going to take that clip off, just a side), take all seals off and unscrew that nut (I did it with grainier, cause I had another one). Just pull the motor out. Reinstall all the seals...
http://s1003.photobucket.com/albums/af159/tarikolha/
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Awesome, thanks a lot! That should help me figure it out, I'll probably end up printing all this out and using it once it warms up here and I can get out there and work on it. That sounds pretty straight forward as long as it hasn't rusted up too bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Done! Finally! A 60 degree day in February made for a good time to work on this.

Thanks again for the schematic and basic instructions, having an idea what was going on in there helped tremendously. I looked at the receipt for the wiper motor I kept in the box, I been procrastinating on this for well over a year.

Turns out my problem was how tight the wiper arm boot had bonded itself to the motor shaft. It took cutting it with a hacksaw and gently breaking it in half using a screwdriver and a hammer. (VERY carefully mind you as that back glass always seemed to be in the way or absorbing pressure somehow.)

The level of corrosion was amazing, it had completely attached itself. Event the nut over the seals was VERY tight. Slow steady pressure finally got it to slowly ease off the threads. I had to do quite a bit of cleaning before I put everything back together. I recommend everyone with a rear wiper arm, go out soon and see if it will come off easy, if it does lube it good now before it attaches itself.

Yet to see if any of the seals will leak, everything seems pretty tight, and I added silicone sealant to the 2 places objects pass through the glass.

All I need now is a new wiper arm ($20-$30) and a new wiper blade.
 

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I'm in the process of changing our my motor as well. I've been trying to loosen up the rear wiper arm with PB Blaster, but haven't had any success yet. I thought about cutting the shaft, but I'd like to get the core back for the old motor. I was also hoping to use the old arm, but things aren't looking too good there either, even if I am able to remove it. Oh well, at least it's still cheaper than having the dealer do it.

Let me know if there's anything else I need to look out for in the swap!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
L_Mac said:
I'm in the process of changing our my motor as well. I've been trying to loosen up the rear wiper arm with PB Blaster, but haven't had any success yet. I thought about cutting the shaft, but I'd like to get the core back for the old motor. I was also hoping to use the old arm, but things aren't looking too good there either, even if I am able to remove it. Oh well, at least it's still cheaper than having the dealer do it.

Let me know if there's anything else I need to look out for in the swap!
Well, it doesn't look good for the wiper arm if yours is like mine, but the good news is I didn't have to damage the old wiper motor head to remove the arm.

First off, start from the outside, all the interior side bolts must be in place and tight so it doesn't move around while your working. (I found this out quickly. ;) )

I used a hack saw blade (a dremmel tool might work) to make a cut parallel to the motor shaft and directly above it. Once I got down to the teeth you could see them at the bottom of the cut. Tap in a screwdriver gently, and it may take some prizing and tapping, but the aluminum is weak and should break off in a chunk large enough to free up the arm to the point it can be pulled off easily.

Now once the arm is off, if it was that tight the nut holding on the motor probably won't be any better. I used a deep well socket. It came off, but it took great pressure applied very carefully. That nut isn't the best quality either, and you need it for the replacement. It should come off, just be careful.

Now there is a washer and a odd shaped spacer that makes up for the curve of the window. That can come off too, but I highly recommend leaving it on there as it doesn't go back easily and it only covers the rubber seal. It doesn't need to be removed, but if the buildup is really bad (as was my case) it seemed to help some.

Take off the interior side cover, and only 2 fasteners should still be holding it to the glass, and of course unhook the electrical plug. One fastener looks like a star shape and can be taken off with a socket. It turns correctly from the outside, which is a flat headed smooth button. It is backwards from the inside, so turn it to the right. Now that is free the motor and cover together should be able to come through. It might take a good bit of squirming and wiggling it around to loosen it up so it will come out.

Once it's out of the window, 2 small screws hold it into the plastic cover. They are 5mm socket I think. Keep the rubber spacers from the motor, they were not provided on mine, both have washers as well, note how these come off.

Going back on is just a reverse order of taking it off. I added silicone sealer to the 2 places where fasteners pass through the glass, yet to see if it's watertight but I believe it will be.

Good luck, wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, just took some careful thought before doing. Cutting the arm was difficult for me cause I didn't want another part to replace, but once I got inside it I clearly seen I wasn't going anywhere till it came off. I probably provided more info than you wanted, but if this gets searched for whoever is looking will have a more complete set of instructions.
 

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Thanks for all the info - it's very helpful. I was going to cut the shaft, but that's a great idea to cut down to it from the wiper arm. I'll start hackin' away at it once I get the chance!
 

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Great write-up, mine doesn't work. I think I can hear the relay kick in as I operate the switch so it's probably not electrical & this guide will come in handy when the temperature here becomes more bearable to do the swap.
 

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2013 Escape's rear windshield (on the hatch) was shattered and replaced today but the housing on the rear windshield wiper is now broken. The motor works just fine, I'm looking to replace the plastic housing you require to bolt up the wiper motor in place can anyone lead me in the right direction?
 
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