[vistablue]

My seats are really stained so I bought replacement seats both front and rear. What is the procedure for swaping out the seats? Is it simply a question of taking off the negative battery terminal first then R&R the seats?
Mike

 

[RobtRoma]

[mod]Moved question to How-To-Requests - RobtRoma[/mod]

 

[Mike Dee]

Most seats are simply held in by 4 bolts and whatever electrical, I rarely disconnect the battery unless I'm working directly on something like the main electrical, you can if you want, some people and manuals say to do it for almost everything, although I havent heard anyone say to do it before checking the oil...yet. I suppose if they tell you, then they arent liable if you short something and for some reason the fuse doesnt blow.

Most back seats just pop in, I think these ones pop in/out when moving the seatbacks, but need to be unbolted before you can remove them, I think I remember seeing bolts for them.
Older seats had to have the tracks lined up before you put them in or they would be crooked, which makes it very awkward and uncomfortable to sit in, especially if its the drivers seat lol. There is nothing complicated about changing a seat, except for seized bolts sometimes. If the bottoms are rusted, its a good idea to paint them before putting them in, it looks awful having a rusty seat bottom next to a nice clean carpet.
That must have been quite the expense, unless they are used seats.

 

[underthetire]

If it has side airbags, yes disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes.

Sent from my A3-A20FHD using Tapatalk

 

[vistablue]

I got them for $150.00 on Craigslist-very nice condition. So I pull the negative terminal and go for it then?

 

[Mike Dee]

It looks like most or all have the front side airbags and seatbelt pretensioners which is a tiny explosive that goes off in a crash and tightens your seatbelt, plus I glanced at my manual and theres almost a page for disarming and re-arming the airbags for 2005 and later, so its up to you, but ya, disconnect the battery.
Personally, I wouldnt worry about anything, but would be conscious of what "could" happen and would keep my fingers away from the seatbelt and the airbag pointed away from me, but get yourself a manual so that you can more easily do things, its usually $20 well spent.

 

[vistablue]

You mean like a Chiltons manual?

 

[Mike Dee]

Yep, or Haynes, they are both good and available almost everywhere you can buy parts.

http://www.rockauto.com/ has them both plus is a popular web store for parts.

 

[vistablue]

The front seats are held down by very large star type screws. Can someone tell me what size star type socket I need to buy?
Mike

 

[Rook]

Hmm, I wanna say a t55 security torx nut.

 

[acnewman55]

Can the OP update us on how this went?

Any snags or easy out/in?

Thanks

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Rex B]

For my 2008 the tool is a Torx Plus TP55. It is different from a regular Torx. A T55 torx can probably be made to work, but it's loose. The TP55 has heavier splines, and it fits the bolt head like a glove. OTC and Lisle make them, probably others.

Update: I bought one from NAPA for $11. Carlyle brand

 

[Escapeism]

My 2013 uses a t55 torx plus. My workshop manual also says that if you put in a new RCM (restraint control) or any other kind of module that it needs to be programmed. Since you are swapping did you check on the donor vehicles VIN number to make sure your airbag will function properly?