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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This Escape is my girlfriends and its pretty much to the point where I am about to strap some C4 on it and run.....

2001 Escape XLT V6 with 120K miles on it and it doesn't want to idle when cold.

Started a few months ago when CEL came on, I ran the code and it came back as a misfire in cylinder 3, after some choice words, busted knuckles and many hours of work, I had the coil replaced and while in there swapped the plugs, air filter and the manifold gaskets and it seemed to run fine.

Fast Forward a few months

Its now fall and in the mornings when its cold it wouldn't hold idle for more than 3 mins unless your holding the gas down a bit. I popped the hood and noticed that one of the bolts holding the Idle Control Unit was loose and creating a leak, ended up replacing the bolt and it still wouldn't hold idle. I also noticed that there is a exhaust leak on the flange near the rear axle.

I am wondering if the Idle Control Unit went bad but I have doubts on that, but outside of that I have no idea what could be the problem. Help
 

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The Idle Air Control Unit could be your problem, try taking it out and cleaning it, might fix it :shrug:
 

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I would do a tune-up. Including cleaning the MAF sensor, battery conections, looking for cracked hoses, checking connections . I would also do a relearning of the fuel mixture by disconnecting the battery. Take your time, go by the book and everything should go smooth. :yes:
 

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Cleaning the IAC might be a temporary fix. If it's at fault &/or needs replacing, I would get a Motorcraft part - it seems like others have reported that the aftermarket units didn't last long. The Motorcraft unit for my 02 2.0L is made in Japan. The other ones are probably made in china or somewhere.
 

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A 2001 vehicle holds pretty well if idling at cold is the only major issue...I think.
1/the MAF sensor needs taking care off, together with the air intake.Cleaning the air intake pipe makes a hell of of a difference for that age vehicle.I am certain that the baterfly cock does not shut properly.
2/The loose bolt of the AIC has already resulted in the deteoration of the AIC gaske.It is a tiny one and prone to damage.As said above you might as well clean the AIC itself.
Easy thing you can do yourself ,I hope, and your Escape will idle fine.
 

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For sure replace the IAC gasket, whether or not you replace IAC itself.
Be sure to torque the bolts down to the correct spec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright the weather is getting warmer so I have been able to do more work to this truck....

Replaced the IAC yesterday, changed the battery, cleaned the MAF sensor and throttle body and as of right now the car will start idle at 1,000 and instead of dropping down to 750-800 it will jump to 2,500-3K and not drop down when warmed up, I also noticed the car will pretty much drive itself once in gear and downshifts down to 1st gear really hard...

I pulled the new IAC off and put the old one back on and the old issues of start then stall out within 2 mins come back...

Vacuum Lines new nothing is loose. so the only thing I can think of is the Throttle Position Sensor needs to be cleaned of replaced?
 

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Was the MAF sensor's thin wires very dirty?
Cleaning them reads better the incoming air allowing for more fuel compared to what it used to.
Before going any further, I would disconnect the battery's negative terminal.Leave the car for at least half an hour and take it from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Its the second time I have cleaned the MAF sensor so it wasn't that dirty but I still did it.

I had the battery disconnected but for about 15 mins.

I seriously think this car is possessed and evil, but the girlfriend loves it for some odd reason as for me like I said packing full of C4 or Anfo and pushing a button and watching disappear forever would make me a happy camper.....LOL
 
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