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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2012 Ford Escape XLT 2.5L (no mods)

- At stop light, I have a little bit of rough idle when in gear.
- At stop light, I have worse rough idle with A/C is on when in gear.
- At stop light, if I shift to park with A/C on OR off, the engine runs smooth.

I have replaced spark plugs and air filter.
I disconnected negative battery cable and ran wire to positive cable to clear out PCM. The rough idle still exists.
The engine runs good except in the above conditions.

Any help on what the problem might be would be appreciated. Thank you.
 

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My experience is with a 2005 V-6.
The liquid filled mount on the passenger side leaks and causes shaking similar to what you describe.
Also noise but that built up gradually so I could only appreciate the silence with a new mount.
A test is to have someone rev the engine in park while you observe the engine.
If it tilts appreciably when revved, it points to the mount.
There are other tests for the V-6 mount but replacement was cheap enough and easier than exhaustive testing.

Here's a YouTube testing a I4:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This weekend I will lift bottom of engine to see how much the motor mount bracket moves from rubber mount.

RockAuto does NOT sell these mounts. Besides Ford, where can I buy the motor mount bracket?
 

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As already mentioned, the motor mounts are the first place to look. In Neutral/Park at idle, there is no load on the engine so you won't feel it. In Drive, the engine is working against the transmission and is under load so you'll get vibration. The specific mount to look at is the hydraulic mount. It's on the Passenger side fender well.

The mounting point itself is in a hydraulic fluid filled pouch that sits suspended within the outer shell of the mount. You typically cannot see that it has failed because the fluid is contained within the mount. Only rarely will it leak fluid outside the mount and be obvious.

Just put a jack under the engine oil pan with cardboard or a 2x4 to increase the contact area. Lift the jack to where you just see the motor lift up a tad, Remove the center bolt of the mount where it connects to the bracket that comes from the engine. Start your engine. Don't rev it. Put into D with your foot on the brake and verify the vibration is gone. If it is, you just identified the problem. Rock auto has them from Anchor brand.
 

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weluv said:
Thank you for the replies. I was thinking it was either fuel or air problem. I did not think that it would be a engine mount. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
trust me, noone thinks engine mount in their first go-round.

It took me a fuel filter, plugs, and fuel injectors before I conceded, went to the dealer and they brought it up. I was skeptical but at that point, what was another $60 for the hydraulic mount vs what I had already spent?

Lo and behold, that was it. I ended up replacing all the mounts after seeing their condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I finally replaced both mounts. I still have the same vibration as before.
Sitting at a red light in drive, I feel vibrating throughout the Escape plus I see the hood vibrate but when I put the shifter in neutral or park, I feel no vibration.

With 119k miles on the Escape, it was probably good to put new mounts on.

Does anyone have any other suggestions of what could cause this vibration?
 

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Pretty sure you have an IAC that controls the idle speed. If it is not working exactly to spec, you could experience more vibration at idle, especially when you add extra loads such as the A/C compressor.
The IAC -idle air control - regulates idle rpm. It is sort of a miniature throttle, run by the computer. They can get gummy and sticky and be unable to adjust the idle properly. If working, as soon as you start a cold engine, the IAC will raise the idle speed to over 1,000 rpms. As the engine & coolant warm, the IAC will lower the idle rpm to ~750, depending on engine, and hold the idle rpm when you put the transmission into gear. Sometimes cleaning the IAC and the throttle plate and the area nearby will improve idle and response.
OTOH, if it has done this since new, then I got nothin'.
tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
tomw said:
Pretty sure you have an IAC that controls the idle speed. If it is not working exactly to spec, you could experience more vibration at idle, especially when you add extra loads such as the A/C compressor.
The IAC -idle air control - regulates idle rpm. It is sort of a miniature throttle, run by the computer. They can get gummy and sticky and be unable to adjust the idle properly. If working, as soon as you start a cold engine, the IAC will raise the idle speed to over 1,000 rpms. As the engine & coolant warm, the IAC will lower the idle rpm to ~750, depending on engine, and hold the idle rpm when you put the transmission into gear. Sometimes cleaning the IAC and the throttle plate and the area nearby will improve idle and response.
OTOH, if it has done this since new, then I got nothin'.
tom
What you wrote makes a lot of sense. Thanks.
I am having a hard time finding the IAC. RockAuto shows the part but then I stopped at the local Ford Dealer and he told me my 2012 Escape 2.5L does NOT have an IAC. I have looked three different times today and I can't find the IAC which should look like the RockAuto photo. I'm looking around the throttle body, intake, under the intake but I am lost. Youtube only wants to show the 3.0L because the IAC sets right on top of the engine. Does anyone have a photo of the location of IAC?
 

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I have a 2008 V6 and it has a throttle cable with IAC. I thought the IAC was only for the throttle cable equipped cars, as I understand it if you don't have a throttle cable then you have the electronic throttle system that doesn't use one the PCM regulates idle speed by adjusting the throttle plate itself. I may very well be wrong but that's my take on it, I have the same issue so definitely curious on what can resolve it. My idle becomes turbulent only when A/C is engaged and can feel the vibration in the cabin though my mounts are likely shot.

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I keep forgetting about drive by wire. Pretty sure they do not have an IAC but use the throttle under electronic control to maintain the idle.
I would clean the throttle body and make sure the throttle plate can move freely.
The IAC on the owned 07 uses a passage just to the 'right' or rear wall of the throttle body as its air inlet. It is just 'in front of' the throttle plate and visible if you remove the air inlet tube.
Drive by wire, or electronic throttle is a fish of a different color, and of note some of the other models that use it have had problems. I think it needs to be 'calibrated' when it is installed, so it 'knows' WOT and full closed positions. I do not own one, but have seen/read about them. Being old and sort of stuck in the past, I prefer mechanical control. But that is not going to happen with newer vehicles.
tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
tomw said:
I keep forgetting about drive by wire. Pretty sure they do not have an IAC but use the throttle under electronic control to maintain the idle.
I would clean the throttle body and make sure the throttle plate can move freely.
tom
For $51, I decided to replace throttle body. Pretty cheap. With 119K miles, it makes sense to change. I have my figures crossed this is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I have replaced throttle body and cleared out the computer per video
.

New motor mounts. New throttle body...

I still have the vibration while sitting at red light.

I would appreciate it if anybody has any suggestions of what might be causing the vibration. Please give me your thoughts.
 

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Which mounts did you replace? (I replaced both mounts, - from previous post)

It could make a difference.

Did the new TB help with the vibration when the A/C was engaged? You noted it was more noticeable when in Drive, stopped, with the A/C on. Did that improve at all?
tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
tomw said:
Which mounts did you replace? (I replaced both mounts, - from previous post)

It could make a difference.

Did the new TB help with the vibration when the A/C was engaged? You noted it was more noticeable when in Drive, stopped, with the A/C on. Did that improve at all?
tom
I replaced both mounts.
I replaced TB and reset computer.

No improvements. Same vibration now as there was before all these parts were replaced.

I bought this Escape in July and did not think much of the vibration. Now it just drives me crazy!
 

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There are 3 mounts.
My experience replacing the right front mount fixed the issue.
But maybe you need to change the transmission mount?
Perhaps slightly jack up the engine with a 2 X 8 under the oil pan and see if the rough idle changes or disappears.
A simple experiment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
keiser said:
There are 3 mounts.
My experience replacing the the right front mount fixed the issue.
But maybe you need to change the transmission mount?
Perhaps slightly jack up the engine with a 2 X 8 under the oil pan and see if the rough idle changes or disappears.
A simple experiment.
I replaced the mount by firewall and by passenger front tire.
 
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