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There are actually 3 or possibly 4 mounts.
So you've changed the most common failure [passenger side] but there are still more that could be the issue, as unlikely as it may be.
No need to keep throwing on new parts but do the quick jack test - be sure to use a board - and see if anything changes when slightly elevated.
 

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One other thing you can do while supporting the engine is to loosen all the mounts. That will/should release any tension that would overload one of the mounts while letting one be underutilized. It can happen that the mounts get under tension when installed at the factory(there was a TSB about this) or when a mount is replaced. If you(or someone else) installed a new mount previously, while letting the engine hang on the other mounts, it is possible that the mount(s) are sharing the load unequally, especially if one of the mounts is tightened down when the engine is sagging or high(depends) and is tightened down at the limit(in either direction) of its capability to absorb vibration. I may be over explaining, but if you had one mount that was squished by load, due to another in failure, it could stay squished when the new mount is installed unless the whole assembly was 'leveled' with all the mount fasteners loosened, and the mounts allowed to 'equalize', and then the fasteners tightened. That was the short version of the TSB, more or less.
tom
 

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2012 Ford Escape XLT 2.5L (no mods)

  • At stop light, I have a little bit of rough idle when in gear.
  • At stop light, I have worse rough idle with A/C is on when in gear.
  • At stop light, if I shift to park with A/C on OR off, the engine runs smooth.

I have replaced spark plugs and air filter.
I disconnected negative battery cable and ran wire to positive cable to clear out PCM. The rough idle still exists.
The engine runs good except in the above conditions.

Any help on what the problem might be would be appreciated. Thank you.
Did you ever figure this out? I have a 2010 2.5 same exact thing
 
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