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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The shop installed a malik brush guard but now the hood wont open, it is partially blocked by the guard itself. Is that normal for this guard? did the shop install it too tightly? how can i resolve this situation, I wanted to instruct them, better I am a moron for not checking when I was there. I assumed that they would pay more attention.

Is it because they tightened it too much, what is causing this issue?

thanks
 

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First off - welcome NYCXBAIT!!

Second off, are you meaning Manik brush guard? What year vehicle? I presume you are not referencing the in-cab hood release- instead you are talking about the "at the hood" release mechanism you can't get to because of the guard? Or is it the actual travel of the hood is impeded by the bar from the guard? If the dealership installed it, take it the :censor: back and tell them to rectify the issue!

If they wont fix the problem, maybe you can get creative with a shim on the install of the guard to move the position of it forward?
 

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I had this problem with my brush guard. I loosened all the bolts and pulled the guard downwards by standing on it. Once the bolts were tightened up again, the hood had ample clearance.

You should look up the grade and size of your bolts to find out what to torque them to. That will give your brush guard as much strength as possible, which we need as the attachment points are relatively weak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks you guys, yea sorry i am all business since I have this problem...

This forum is awesome, I found this place from ************** but there is no activity over there and I could not sign up for the my life. anyway... its the acutal bar that is blocking the hood. I am mechanically retarded.

I am not sure, I have to take it back to the shop, but I want to make sure I know of a solution for them instead of them giving me some runaround...

You are saying to loosen it and torque it differently, please explain thank you.

yes it is a manik bar, and my car is a 2004 mazda tribute
 

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I loosened all the mounting bolts enough that the brush guard could "swivel" about the mounting points. I did not completely remove the bolts, as that would just get you back to square one.

After everything was loosened, I pulled on the brush guard so that the top bar swung downwards (and away from the hood). Once in that position, I torqued the bolts to their maximum torque. You can find charts online that tell you what to torque them to based on grade and bolt diameter. You can determine the grade of the bolt based on markings on the bolt head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
im sorry, which mounting bolts? the one on the bottom that connects to the frame, or the bolts on the actual guard itself?

thanks
 

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Do you only have bolts on the bottom? You should have four mounting points, two on the bottom and two that bolt into the bumper reinforcement. Those are the bolts that should be loosened, not bolts that hold the actual brush guard together.
 

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nycxbait,

When Squishy is talking about the markings on the bolts, I believe the picture below will help.



I am not sure about the maximum torque rating because that is based on the diameter of the bolt.

Hope that sheds some light.
 

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Those are the SAE "grade" markings - you may have ISO "class" markings such as 8.8 or 10.9, or even the odd ones like DH3. SAE and ISO torque value tables should be readily available, but you may have to do some searching if you have odd markings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks for all of the help so far... so basically the shop torqued the bottom bolts too tightly and now its sticking too close to the car correct? if they torque it at the correct amount then it wont be so close and I will be able to open the hood?

Sorry for speaking in laymen terms, I work in advertising and have no mechanical talent.

thanks in advance.
 

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No, the torque values are not necessarily related to your problem. Your problem is that the bolts were tightened with the brush guard too close to the hood, fixing it in the wrong position.

I mentioned torque values because we do not have true frame attachment points, so we can't afford to have any slack in the bolts. Bolts should be in tension all the time, not shear, but if they are too loose, they will allow the brush guard to "slide" and put shear force onto the bolts. Ideally, the bolts will clamp the two metal parts together and that friction will take the hit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
alright I think I am starting to understand... ever so slowly, thank you for your patience,

So i have to tell them to re adjust the bolts in the bottom for more clearance and then tighten it back correct?

I really just need an inch or two.

I can't believe the shop didn't double check. ridlcous.

on the bright side, i only paid 40 dollars for the brush guard.... and its from manik, which supposedly is a good unit?

how much are they new anyway?
 

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I'm not sure about the Manik brand, but in general they are about $400 new for black and $600 new for stainless. I think I paid $100 for mine, which is stainless (although I would prefer a black).

When I had the clearance problem, I think it was the top mount that moved the most. You will probably need to adjust all four mounting points (at once, so that the brush guard can move freely).
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
got it resolved!

i told them what to do per this post and we got it fixed in less than 10 mins.

awesome thanks guys!
 
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