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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I figured since I got in almost all of my new audio toys, I would start an install log of sorts. Also since fourthmeal answered about 90 of my questions, this is a tribute to him. The plan is to get a decent upgrade of audio and soundproofing all while keeping the stock HU for now. I just can't replace it yet. Eventually, but not yet.

My mini upgrade was replacing the stock speakers with JL Audio Evolution 5x7 in all 4 doors. That alone made a big difference in sound. Lets face it the stock 5x7 suck. Just them alone made the truck much better. I then dove into the soundproofing info and familiarized myself with what was what. MLV, CCF, resonance tiles, etc. A big thanks to Don at sounddeadenershowdown.com for his help as well. He helped a lot in my order of everything I needed.

For audio, I admit that I get a great deal on certain manufacturers from a friend in the business. JL Audio is the premier manufacturer that my friend can get me a good deal on. So here is the build list:

Stock HU
Audiocontrol CL6i line out converter (front HU input, summed for rear)
JL Evolution C2 650 component fronts
JL Audio C2 5 x 7 rears (already installed)
JL Audio 10W1v2 sub
Fosgate Punch P400-4 amp
10" box covered in tan carpet (to match rear)

Again average equipment admittedly. I am not looking to enter a sound contest. Just wanting to add good, quality sound to my ride. Also looking to add some soundproofing. I already sealed the holes in the 4 doors. I will be basically adding 40 CLD Tiles to the inner/outer metal areas, Extruded Rope at the seams, MLV and CCF in the panels, cargo and rear quarters.
Nothing crazy but enough MLV/CCF to deaden road noise. The 2.5L is a loud little machine and this plan should quiet that.

Planning to start in February when my workload is a bit less. To start a few pics of the goodies:

MLV/CCF/Tiles in my office:

Stuff in the basement:


I am just waiting for the components to come in. They have been back ordered for a bit. Due early next week. I have everything else ready to go. My buddy made some 6.5-5x7 spacers for the fronts. I already put the sub in the box and soldered/wired the inside connections. As soon as the speakers come in I will start it off.

This will be at least a 2 step plan. One is to get the speakers run and installed with the converter, amp and crossovers mounted temporarily in the rear cargo area - probably just to a piece of plywood. At that time I will do the front soundproofing. Once I get everything dialed for sound I will then permanently mount under the false floor and do the rest of the soundproofing in the rear. I only want to take that apart once.
 

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Sounds like a great plan. Did you make you own box? Your selection looks great. There will always be "better". Goal is to buy what you can afford, and get pleasing sound to you.
 

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Thanks for the props but I have to say, you are the one doing the work and doing it well, so you deserve the props.

Just take lots of pics during the build, it will help others do their thing following you, just like you did with me. Each time one of us does that, we'll get better and better by learning from each other.
 

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fourthmeal said:
Just take lots of pics during the build, it will help others do their thing following you, just like you did with me. Each time one of us does that, we'll get better and better by learning from each other.
I second that. Take lots of pics. I'm following you with the front speaker install (I have components tho) and dampening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I plan to take pics along the way. I may have time to do some easy stuff this weekend like the rear gate and rear doors. Unfortunately my fronts are not in yet so I can't do the major stuff yet. I can at least do the 2 rear doors and hatch door trim panels.

For those following the soundproofing portion of this, Don recommended to remove the moisture barriers and use the factory butyl adhesive (or whatever it is) as a good mounting start for the MLV. When I peeled back the moisture barrier, there was a nice bead of the black glue that remaind in the door. That and the velcro mounts. He recommended for the doors to put the MLV right on the metal skin, then adhere the CCF to the MLV using the adhesive he provided. For everywhere else like floors and cargo area, he said to put the CCF first then the MLV. The CCF helps to eliminate any rattles in the panels.

My plan is to take off a trim panel, lay on top of the MLV and mark a rough outline with a silver felt tip marker. Then I will remove the moisture barrier and lay inside of the lines on the MLV and cut the MLV to a rough size. I figure I need to go slightly larger than the barrier and slightly smaller than the panel. Then I can line it up to the door. Once I have one MLV cut I can easily make a 2nd one by matching it up. Once the MLV is good I will cut the same size piece of CCF. Then glue it all up. Don recommends only gluing in a few strategic spots. Then just cut tiny openings for the door cable and wire harnesses and apply the MLV/CCF on the door. Should be a nice solid barrier with minimal openings when done.

Well that is the plan anyway. Hopefully I can actually get something started this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I only had about a 1/2 hour of time to myself this weekend. I managed to only apply CLD tiles to the rear hatch panel. Popped off the trim and took a look. Placed 2 tiles in various places on the inner and outer metal skin before I was summoned from the wife (she had the flu all weekend :cry: ). Didn't get a chance to take any pics. I will before I put in the MLV/CCF. I need to get something sharp to cut the MLV with.

Here is the sound plan:

Front Doors:
- Already sealed up the holes and applied CLD mateiral (previously)to inner metal.
- 4 CLD tiles going on the outer skin - 2 above and 2 below impact beam.
- Extruded Butyl rop right at the bar/skin interface
- MLV and CCF

Rear Doors:
- Already sealed up the holes and applied CLD mateiral (previously) to inner metal.
- 5 CLD tiles going on the outer skin - 3 above and 2 below impact beam.
- Extruded Butyl rop right at the bar/skin interface
- MLV and CCF

Rear Cargo Door:
- 4 CLD tiles - 2 outer and 2 inner. Sliced up to fit in various spaces
- MLV and CCF

Front Floor:
- 2 CLD Tiles
- MLV and CCF from door to console

RearFloor:
- 2 CLD Tiles
- MLV and CCF across the whole floor

Cargo Area Floor:
- 8 CLD Tiles
- MLV and CCF under the false floor

Quarter Panels (each):
- 3 CLD Tiles
- MLV and CCF

I sure hope to sneak in a few hours this week to get stuff going. I have a TON of home projects between our house and our rental so vying for "Escape time" is hard right now. Vehicle upgrades are strangely not as important to house fixes in her opinion. :stop: .
 

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sounds good.

I tore into my false floor yesterday evening and added more deadener as well. Its a race!

Oh yes, MLV cuts like butter with a standard box knife. It is SOFT. It could even cut if you bent it one way, then bent it the other and creased it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I had an hour all to myself today in between house fixes and getting our rental unit up and running. So I decided what better than to start the long sound/audio install. I managed to finish installing the CLD tiles to the rear hatch. Popped off the trim and added 2 panels each to the inner and outer skins. Then rough cut the MLV to fit inside the trim panel. Then cut the CCF to the same size. Used the adhesive that Don supplied to put the two pieces together.

The install for the rear trim includes the "snap" pieces that are in the middle of the trim. So I cut small holes in the MLV as the pins need to go through the MLV/CCF and into the metal skin. Used 4 velcro pieces - although the MLV/CCF needs to be mounted inside of the trim - and stuck everything together. For rattle avoidance, I purposefully cut the MLV slightly larger than the CCF and allowed the CCF to go in between the tab bases and the MLV.

Some pics:

CLD Tiles cut to fit and spaced out. Also added a couple pieces of butyl rope to the little metal areas:


MLV side view:


CCF side (my flash makes it look white):


I think I will be mounting the amp, LC6i and the crossovers underneath the plastic stock false floor. I was hoping to get the wet trunk plastic floor but realistically I can mount those to the floor underneath the plastic false floor. That is of course once everything is dialed in for sound and I won't need to adjust anything. I don't really have the time to build a false floor with all of my home projects. Maybe for my 2nd build. :D

The next step will be the rear door panels. Getting all of the easy stuff done first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Got the left rear done tonight. Now that I have worked the MLV and CCF previously, I am much faster at cutting it up. Same procedure as the rear gate in cutting the MLV and CCF to fit. Below is a quick pic of the rough cut just hung with the velcro. I closed up the openings once everything was lined up. Also added the CLD tiles and butyl rope to the inside metal skins. I was pressed for time so didn't get more than 1 picture. It lined up perfect and the panel went right back on first try. Got all of the snaps to grab easily.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Today I was able to get the other rear door done. It went much faster than the first. Then I started to look around at the pieces I have ready to go. I started looking at the wiring for the amp and line converter. I soldered up some connections to some wiring. Started with the positive power for the line converter. Soldered the terminal end and in-line fuse to get ready to attach to the battery and heat-shrinked everything. Mapped out where I will run the positive battery lead for the amp (big guage) and line converter (smaller guage) to run towards the firewall gromet. Planned out where to mount the amp fuse holder and basically just looked around. I got out the flashlight and inspected where the lines will run. Looks fairly easy to get under the molding by the kick panels and run to the rear on the inside.

Next step will be the big one - component install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
TopElimn8r said:
Well i'm just curious how much this has hushed the exterior noise in the interior?
Well I have only installed the CLD tiles, MLV and CCF to the rear cargo door and the 2 rear doors so far. I have a LOT more to install yet. But I definately notice a pretty good difference in road noise. Plus I can hear the stereo better at a slightly lower volume than previusly. I can't wait until the cargo, floors and front doors are done. I think it will be a total change in the vehicle quietness.

Today I mounted my amp and line converter to a wood frame. Nothing fancy, just something to hold everything in place. I decided to install under the false floor. All of the tabs will be used to zip tie all of the incoming/outgoing lines. I will be installing right in the rear cargo belly area. For now I will just place it in the rear and run the power to it until everything is dialed in, then place underneath.



Just trying to get the little pieces done here and there before the component install.
 

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Any chance you can take a bunch of pics and/or post some details when you connect the LC6i? Are you just using the front speaker output or front and rear summed together? I have the same unit and anything you can post will help greatly.

Thanks,
Jason
 

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Looks good, but a little carpet or vinyl goes a LONG way. I recommend always trimming up w/ something that covers the raw wood before installing.

Granted, my last false floor install from a couple years back didn't ever get finished so I am eating my own words, but you are doing this methodically and with precision, so it makes sense to get it covered while you are in there.
 

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StruckBy99 said:
Any chance you can take a bunch of pics and/or post some details when you connect the LC6i? Are you just using the front speaker output or front and rear summed together? I have the same unit and anything you can post will help greatly.

Thanks,
Jason
I can't tell you for sure what he's going to do, but I can tell you what I would do.

I would pull signal from the front, and power up the fronts and sub with that. And leave the rear alone entirely, from head unit to speaker. Makes a nice rear fill that way, as long as the power is faded 20% rear, 80% front. Keeps a solid front image and doesn't distract you. Adds a bit of "air" to the sound without compromising the dashboard acoustic image and instrument placement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Fourthmeal has it correct. I am pulling the front speaker output from the HU. From there I will summ the rear signal using the LC6i. Then to the amp and back out to the fronts/sub. I am leaving the rear units alone (even though I put in new C2 5 x 7). That way all of the "good" sound that the HU puts out will be used.

I was planning to run a layer of MLV between the amp/LC6i and the wood. Make a nice little MLV sandwich before installing it in permanently. That way the entire wood/electronic interface has a bit of something in between. I was going to cut a piece of MLV about 6 inches larger than the wood and adhere to the rear cargo MLV once I install it. That way I have a contigious layer in the cargo area. I haven't yet determined how I will mount the amp/LC6i/wood piece to the floor belly yet. Maybe a 3M adhesive tape or something like that. Something that can be removed (if needed) and not screwed into the metal.

I am actually taking tomorrow off from work and planning to do the install all day and get as much done as I can. I need a mental health day from work and I have just about finished all of my prep stuff. I hope to get at least the electronics in and wired up.
 

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fourthmeal said:
StruckBy99 said:
Any chance you can take a bunch of pics and/or post some details when you connect the LC6i? Are you just using the front speaker output or front and rear summed together? I have the same unit and anything you can post will help greatly.

Thanks,
Jason
I can't tell you for sure what he's going to do, but I can tell you what I would do.

I would pull signal from the front, and power up the fronts and sub with that. And leave the rear alone entirely, from head unit to speaker. Makes a nice rear fill that way, as long as the power is faded 20% rear, 80% front. Keeps a solid front image and doesn't distract you. Adds a bit of "air" to the sound without compromising the dashboard acoustic image and instrument placement.
Only downside for me is I need all 6 channels. Can I use all 6 from just two inputs?? I'll be running tweet/mid/midbass in the front and I'm putting midbass only in the rear doors and they will only play from 63hz up to around 3-400hz.

Sinister:
I'm really anxious to see how the LC6i works out for you. If can post or send me a pic of where and which wires you tap into for the fronts, I sure would appreciate it. Should have a good looking, great sounding system when your done!

Jason
 

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StruckBy99 said:
fourthmeal said:
StruckBy99 said:
Any chance you can take a bunch of pics and/or post some details when you connect the LC6i? Are you just using the front speaker output or front and rear summed together? I have the same unit and anything you can post will help greatly.

Thanks,
Jason
I can't tell you for sure what he's going to do, but I can tell you what I would do.

I would pull signal from the front, and power up the fronts and sub with that. And leave the rear alone entirely, from head unit to speaker. Makes a nice rear fill that way, as long as the power is faded 20% rear, 80% front. Keeps a solid front image and doesn't distract you. Adds a bit of "air" to the sound without compromising the dashboard acoustic image and instrument placement.
Only downside for me is I need all 6 channels. Can I use all 6 from just two inputs?? I'll be running tweet/mid/midbass in the front and I'm putting midbass only in the rear doors and they will only play from 63hz up to around 3-400hz.

Sinister:
I'm really anxious to see how the LC6i works out for you. If can post or send me a pic of where and which wires you tap into for the fronts, I sure would appreciate it. Should have a good looking, great sounding system when your done!

Jason
Shouldn't be a thing at all, especially if you are applying your processing after the LC6i. I run just 2ch out from my aftermarket HU to my processor exactly in the same way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I did a bit of work tonight to get ready for the install tomorrow. I wired up the positive wires for the amp and LC6i. Attached to the battery and ran housing. Went right into the firewall rubber gromet. I left the fuses out of the install under I am all finished. On the inside I ran more housing behind the emergency brake assembly and ran the wiring behind it. Then ran along the floor edge next to the stock wire harness. While I had the front open I put in the MLV/CCF on the floor. I will put in the CLD tiles when I remove the middle console near the center. The floor had factory damping so i didn't want to attach the tiles to that.

I ran the two wires right into the rear and left for tomorrow. I pulled off the rear quarter panel to have a preview. I managed to get the CLD tiles on the inside and outside skin and cut the MLV before calling it a night.

Wiring under the hood:


Door/floor panel:


Rear panel before install:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Start time: 8am. Finish time: TBD. I spent all day on the install today. I went from 8am to about 4:30 then went to the gym and did another 3 ours after that. Wow. I got all the speakers wired, got the amp and LC6i in and wired and everything works. Front panels are in the basement as I didn't put them back on yet. I didn't have time to cut the front MLV/CCF so I left them off. Just placed the tweeters on the metal skin for now with some sticky velcro.

I must say that I haven't adjusted anything yet and it sounds MASSIVE. It sounds LOUD and clean. Pics tomorrow and a mini write-up....
 
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