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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all I apologize if this has been covered in a previous thread, but my searches yielded no results.

I got an '04 escape limited earlier this year and I'm interested in upgrading the stereo in it. It already sounds great (mach 290) but I have a whole bunch of stereo equipment from previous vehicles, and I'd like to put them to use.

I'm looking for a new deck, but I'm unsure of what I actually need. I have 3 amps (actually 4, but one is just for the subwoofer) that I can use. I have:

2-channel pioneer 35w rms/channel at 4 ohms
2-channel clarion 50w rms/channel at 4ohms
4-channel jbl 60w rms/channel at 4ohms

I was planning on using the jbl and the pioneer, but I'm not sure if I actually need both because I don't know how the stereo is wired. When looking around at aftermarket speakers I noticed that most of the time the front speakers and the tweeters are sold as one package, and (I assume) they are wired together. So rather than needing a 6-channel amplifier for the tweets, fronts, and rears, you could use a 4-channel because the tweets and front speakers are technically one unit. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but that's what I've managed to gather so far.

I was planning on disconnecting the stock sub and amp and put in my 12" 400w Premier, and then put in my jbl amp for the rest of the speakers (or the jbl and the pioneer, or the jbl and the clarion depending on power handling).

I was going to leave the stock speakers in for now as I don't have the cash to upgrade them until I sell some of my stuff from my last car to friends/family/etc.

Anybody able to shed some light as to how the stereo is wired? Speaker sizes? I know the fronts are 5x7s but couldn't find out about the others. Or what about power handling? Would the stock speakers be able to handle an amplifier? Are the front speakers wired separately from the tweeters? I e-mailed ford and all they told me was that it was a Mach 290 system (290w RMS) with 7 speakers, and that speaker sizes and their power ratings were 'unavailable.'

All information greatly appreciated! I've been googling around and all I could really find were old forum posts from before the escape even existed so I am very happy to have found this forum :)
 

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First of all, Welcome to E-C.

There are several threads on the first page of this forum addressing many of the issues you bring up regarding upgrades to the factory system. Several of these posts have links to the retailers people have used to purchase their equipment. Many people opt for upgrading their Head Unit before anything else. If your amplifiers have "High Level Inputs" then you can re-wire the system to suit your needs. I would, however discourage using the factory HU into an amplifier and then back into the factory speakers. These components are typically "matched" by the designers. I know you mentioned not purchasing new equipment until you have built up some more funding. Keep in mind that you can find replacement drivers for your factory speakers for a really reasonable price. For example, I'm replacing the 5x7 speakers in the front with 6.5" drivers for 90 bucks, and putting in new tweets for about 30 bucks total. That puts it at 120 for a really solid soundstage up front.

Regarding head units. There are many pioneer HUs that would suit your needs. The first thing you need to identify though, is what "extras" do you want? Navigation? XM radio? Bluetooth? If you are planning on using all available speaker locations, you'll need a HU that has at LEAST six outputs. (front, rear and subwoofer).

I humbly recommend perusing the Audio/Video mods section of this forum. Loads of good information and a ton of links and ideas for creating solid sound systems.
 

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any of those amps capable of active crossover control? Because that's what may help my recommendations
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Alright here are links for the amps:

http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2 ... 37313.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_843 ... S60.4.html
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/mxaAmps/mxa4002.cfm

Can't remember the model number of the smaller pioneer amp, but I'm thinking I'd rather just go with the clarion anyway, that is if I need to use it.

I actually have 4 infinity reference series 6.5s, but I was under the impression that they wouldn't fit in this vehicle. If I can still use them then great, I won't have to go hunting around for some new speakers.

These are the speakers:

http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/prod ... Region=USA
http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/prod ... Region=USA

They aren't exactly as they picture there as mine are a few years old now. The shallow mount ones are 50w/150w, but the regular mounting depth ones are 60w/180w as listed on the website there.
*EDIT* I just noticed that the new reference speakers are actually 2ohm. Mine are definitely 4ohm though.

As for a head unit my main concern was whether or not I needed 4 sets of preouts or 3. Are the tweeters wired in with the front door speakers? Or would they require another amp. The rest of the features are something I would look for once I know about what kind of outputs I need. Mainly I'd like ipod control, mp3/wma (basically standard so no worries there), something with more than just a 2 or 3 band eq. A steering wheel mounted remote would be nice, or bluetooth, but it's not something I'd be interested in paying a whole lot more for.

The deck I was looking at originally was this one:

http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/ ... 7a0106en02

I was put off at first by the fact that it does not have a cd drive at all, but it will play off of sd cards, thumb drives, ipod, etc. And I use those the high high majority of the time anyway. After reading a few reviews though, I was thinking that maybe it wasn't something I'd want. Apparently feature-rich means horrible usability while driving. Which if you ask me is pretty damn important hahaha.

Basically what I plan on doing is this:

Upgrade Head Unit
Power front speakers and rear speakers with jbl cs60.4
Power subwoofer with the mtx mxa4002
Disconnect stock subwoofer/amplifier
Power tweets with Clarion apa250 (unless the jbl covers all the speakers, then I won't need to use this amp at all)

So really all I'm wanting to know is will I need to use the clarion amp, or will the 4-channel jbl one be enough for the fronts, rears, and tweets. I've never used component speakers before that have tweeters seperate from the rest of the speaker so I wasn't sure how exactly they are normally wired.

Now that I'm thinking about your post there iggie, are upgrading the rear speakers even necessary? I guess if I'm always up in the front seat (which I would be because I'd be driving hahaha) then the rear speakers don't matter too much.

I'll have to do some reading around on how to get those 6.5s into the 5x7 holes in the front and the 6x9(are they 6x9s?) holes in the back, but thanks to this forum :) that shouldn't be too difficult.

Sorry if this post is long-winded, but I guess that's just how I explain things ;)

Thanks for the input so far guys!
 

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stuntman said:
Alright here are links for the amps:

http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2 ... 37313.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_843 ... S60.4.html
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/mxaAmps/mxa4002.cfm

None of those are active capable, so I don't really have a suggestion with which ones to use.
Can't remember the model number of the smaller pioneer amp, but I'm thinking I'd rather just go with the clarion anyway, that is if I need to use it.

I actually have 4 infinity reference series 6.5s, but I was under the impression that they wouldn't fit in this vehicle. If I can still use them then great, I won't have to go hunting around for some new speakers.
I would always suggest round speakers with baffles made, preferably component drivers up front.

These are the speakers:

http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/prod ... Region=USA
http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/prod ... Region=USA

They aren't exactly as they picture there as mine are a few years old now. The shallow mount ones are 50w/150w, but the regular mounting depth ones are 60w/180w as listed on the website there.
*EDIT* I just noticed that the new reference speakers are actually 2ohm. Mine are definitely 4ohm though.

As for a head unit my main concern was whether or not I needed 4 sets of preouts or 3.
Most head units have 2 sets of pre-outs, some have 3. IF you are after a true quality system might as well go with three. Are the tweeters wired in with the front door speakers? Most tweeters are simply in-line with the woofer, the factory woofer is most likely not crossed over, just works with the natural response of the speaker. The tweeter is most likely paralleled with that with a basic 6dB/oct crossover in the form of a capacitor, a really basic type of crossover that leaves a lot to be desired. Or would they require another amp. The rest of the features are something I would look for once I know about what kind of outputs I need. Mainly I'd like ipod control, mp3/wma (basically standard so no worries there), something with more than just a 2 or 3 band eq. A steering wheel mounted remote would be nice, or bluetooth, but it's not something I'd be interested in paying a whole lot more for.

The deck I was looking at originally was this one:

http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/ ... 7a0106en02

I was put off at first by the fact that it does not have a cd drive at all, but it will play off of sd cards, thumb drives, ipod, etc. And I use those the high high majority of the time anyway. After reading a few reviews though, I was thinking that maybe it wasn't something I'd want. Apparently feature-rich means horrible usability while driving. Which if you ask me is pretty damn important hahaha.

Basically what I plan on doing is this:

Upgrade Head Unit
Power front speakers and rear speakers with jbl cs60.4
Power subwoofer with the mtx mxa4002
Disconnect stock subwoofer/amplifier
Power tweets with Clarion apa250 (unless the jbl covers all the speakers, then I won't need to use this amp at all)
Since they are parallel and you don't have active crossover provisions, either purchase component speakers or just run door woofers.

So really all I'm wanting to know is will I need to use the clarion amp, or will the 4-channel jbl one be enough for the fronts, rears, and tweets. I've never used component speakers before that have tweeters seperate from the rest of the speaker so I wasn't sure how exactly they are normally wired.

Now that I'm thinking about your post there iggie, are upgrading the rear speakers even necessary? Not in my suggestion. To me the best way to build a system is with a focus on stage presence and image all toward the front. IF anything, the rears can "fill" a bit.I guess if I'm always up in the front seat (which I would be because I'd be driving hahaha) then the rear speakers don't matter too much.

I'll have to do some reading around on how to get those 6.5s into the 5x7 holes in the front and the 6x9(are they 6x9s?) holes in the back, but thanks to this forum :) that shouldn't be too difficult. Its a 10 minute affair with a baffle material and a jigsaw.

Sorry if this post is long-winded, but I guess that's just how I explain things ;)

Thanks for the input so far guys!
Some great threads have already been made that cover this perfectly, with pics and how-to's. My own builds have useful info for you, but I do take it a different way to go after the best sound I can get. A lot of folks have also pioneered some solutions for you that sorta do what I do (active, processor, lots of deadening), and most seem VERY happy. I know I am.
 

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I'm going to steal fourthmeals move here, my thoughts are in bold. I'm sure fourth and a few others will have other inputs as well.

stuntman said:
Alright here are links for the amps:

http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2 ... 37313.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_843 ... S60.4.html I would use this JBL to power your Front drivers if I were recycling hardware in a situation like yours. Run both your tweets and your door panel speakers on separate channels. Use the output for "front" as your tweets and the "rear" outputs for your doors. But you'll wind up only using the "front" channel output from your HU to power the front and rear inputs on this amp. There appears to be adequate signal processing with the filters and xover ranges to set up your front sound stage.
http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/archive/mxaAmps/mxa4002.cfm

Can't remember the model number of the smaller pioneer amp, but I'm thinking I'd rather just go with the clarion anyway, that is if I need to use it.

I actually have 4 infinity reference series 6.5s, but I was under the impression that they wouldn't fit in this vehicle. If I can still use them then great, I won't have to go hunting around for some new speakers. You can manufacture an adapter plate to mount right onto the factory mounting holes and then cut out the right size to place a 6.5" driver into the adapter. Should take about 15 minutes per adapter to make them. Also, if you're using component speakers, attempt to mount the tweets on the A pillar (the bar that runs up the side of your windscreen) if at all possible. This will elevate your soundstage to your ears so you're not firing your sound quality into your legs

These are the speakers:

http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/prod ... Region=USA
http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/prod ... Region=USA

They aren't exactly as they picture there as mine are a few years old now. The shallow mount ones are 50w/150w, but the regular mounting depth ones are 60w/180w as listed on the website there.
*EDIT* I just noticed that the new reference speakers are actually 2ohm. Mine are definitely 4ohm though.

As for a head unit my main concern was whether or not I needed 4 sets of preouts or 3.Three sets should be all you need. Provided you do not plan on adding any additional hardware in the future. Also, (fourthmeal, here's your plug) if you are in the position to splurge approx. 600 dollars, you only need one set of pre-outs on your HU if you purchase and install the JBL MS8. Are the tweeters wired in with the front door speakers? Or would they require another amp.Again, use that 4 channel JBL to get your tweets and mids into the front all running off of your HUs front channel The rest of the features are something I would look for once I know about what kind of outputs I need. Mainly I'd like ipod control, mp3/wma (basically standard so no worries there), something with more than just a 2 or 3 band eq. A steering wheel mounted remote would be nice, or bluetooth, but it's not something I'd be interested in paying a whole lot more for.

The deck I was looking at originally was this one:

http://www.futureshop.ca/en-CA/product/ ... 7a0106en02

I was put off at first by the fact that it does not have a cd drive at all, but it will play off of sd cards, thumb drives, ipod, etc. And I use those the high high majority of the time anyway. After reading a few reviews though, I was thinking that maybe it wasn't something I'd want. Apparently feature-rich means horrible usability while driving. Which if you ask me is pretty damn important hahaha.

Basically what I plan on doing is this:

Upgrade Head Unit
Power front speakers and rear speakers with jbl cs60.4
Power subwoofer with the mtx mxa4002
Disconnect stock subwoofer/amplifier
Power tweets with Clarion apa250 (unless the jbl covers all the speakers, then I won't need to use this amp at all)

So really all I'm wanting to know is will I need to use the clarion amp, or will the 4-channel jbl one be enough for the fronts, rears, and tweets. I've never used component speakers before that have tweeters seperate from the rest of the speaker so I wasn't sure how exactly they are normally wired.

Now that I'm thinking about your post there iggie, are upgrading the rear speakers even necessary? I guess if I'm always up in the front seat (which I would be because I'd be driving hahaha) then the rear speakers don't matter too much.Here's where I differ in approaches. Some prefer to have the rears faded out almost 90%, so that they merely act as fill for the soundstage between front and subs. I'm going to be installing some Earthquake SWS 6.5 (what they label) subwoofers into the rear doors. The specs on these drivers, plus mapping in WinISD, shows that they would sound fairly clear in approx. .5 cu. ft. to respond well in the 60-80hz range instead of being a full range speaker. You can amplify the stock drivers or even other aftermarket drivers provided you cross it over and fade it properly to be mostly fill as long as it's not distracting your soundstage.

I'll have to do some reading around on how to get those 6.5s into the 5x7 holes in the front and the 6x9(are they 6x9s?) holes in the back, but thanks to this forum :) that shouldn't be too difficult.Make your own adapter plate. Use the existing speaker as an outline for the maximum outside measurements, drill, cut, install, smile

Sorry if this post is long-winded, but I guess that's just how I explain things ;)

Thanks for the input so far guys!
There is a lot of walkthrough of similar approaches throughout this forum. Honestly, there is no lack of info on anything you may be planning to do to your system. OH! and sound deaden like it's going out of style.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the tips guys. I don't think I'll be getting that JBL MS8, but it does look pretty awesome. $900CDN is a little much at the moment though hehe. I think what I would most likely do would be to get some aftermarket tweets, then use those with all of my 6.5s.

Never played around with any sound deadening, but I'll do some reading on here and find out what it's all about.

Mounting the tweets up in the A-pillar should be no problem, as the stock ones are already there :) All I'll have to do is pull em out and stick the new ones in (hopefully...)

Last question before I end this thread and do some more reading though: do you think I would have alternator problems with a system like that? All added up I guess it would be about 700W, but that would only be if everything was delivering the maximum amount of power. Read somewhere that the alternator puts out 110A, which I'm pretty happy about. My last vehicle's alternator was like 45A or something hahaha

*EDIT*

Okay last last question, what size are those stock tweets? Are they 3-1/2"? I've never bought tweeters before, sorry :blush: haha
 

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stuntman said:
Thanks for the tips guys. I don't think I'll be getting that JBL MS8, but it does look pretty awesome. $900CDN is a little much at the moment though hehe. I think what I would most likely do would be to get some aftermarket tweets, then use those with all of my 6.5s.

Never played around with any sound deadening, but I'll do some reading on here and find out what it's all about.

Mounting the tweets up in the A-pillar should be no problem, as the stock ones are already there :) All I'll have to do is pull em out and stick the new ones in (hopefully...)

Last question before I end this thread and do some more reading though: do you think I would have alternator problems with a system like that?absolutely not. However you should, before ANYTHING else, perform what is called the "big three upgrade". This means you beef up the battery + to alternator + output to 4 gauge, battery ground to chassis to 0 gauge, the engine block to chassis ground to 0 gauge. I call it the big four because I see a lot of alternators with their own chassis ground. upgrade that to as large as you can snake in between the space available. I'd go for 8 gauge MINIMUM. All added up I guess it would be about 700W, but that would only be if everything was delivering the maximum amount of power. Read somewhere that the alternator puts out 110A, which I'm pretty happy about. My last vehicle's alternator was like 45A or something hahaha

*EDIT*

Okay last last question, what size are those stock tweets?not entirely sure, I don't have nor have I seen the speakers you mention Are they 3-1/2"? I've never bought tweeters before, sorry :blush: haha
Check some of the other threads in here. There are loads of links for gear that will work if you read through them. I know it's painful, but in the end, it's worth it to have a clear solid system and KNOW what you have and WHY you have it.
 

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I don't mean to hijack your thread but I have a question for fourthmeal.

What are you NOT seeing in that JBL 4 channel amplifier that I'm seeing. I see HPF/LPF/BPF and xover for both front and rear channels. I am just trying to learn more about this modern processing that I used to rely upon external crossovers for.

Thank you in advance.

*edit* I just noticed that the xover only goes up to 320hz. This is entirely too low for tweets. My bad. I misread this to be 320mhz when I looked at it initially.
 

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Because sifting through TONS of threads regarding the same topic can be super painful, I've posted my build here.
iggie2299 said:
iggie2299 wrote:
Hours of reading, re reading and scratching my head trying to match speakers and frequency responses have left my craving my Escape. I would prefer to have the ability to put these drivers in and test them out but based on what I found at Zaphs site and what I (think) I understand about my crossover points, soundstage characteristics and harmonic distortion I think I've got my driver setup. For tweets I'm planning on using https://www.madisound.com/store/product ... ts_id=8352. For the front drivers I intend to utilize http://www.gr-research.com/index.asp?Pa ... ProdID=112. These will be powered off of http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00273 ... ss_product with some significant time spent finding the sweet spots in the crossover.

For subs I'm using two http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 648wt_1139 powered from the Kenwood KAC-1952D running at 2 ohms. I'll be running speaker level output for the rear doors into factory drivers in the back seat. All controlled by http://www.crutchfield.com/s_130AVHP420 ... l?tp=20217. This HU allows me to get future upgrades for navigation and sat. radio without dropping a mint on it right off the bat.

Thanks to YouKnowMyName, I know that I can potentially install all my amplifiers into an interior wall panel and possibly maintain some storage from the original wet bin area.

I have also gotten my quote from Don over at SDS, and will be having that order shipped as soon as I have a guaranteed state side shipping address. (read, as soon as my orders are cut)

I did pick up http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 500wt_1154 for the purpose of playing with in tiny enclosures and various other applications. I picked them up because, when I plot them into winISD, they help amplify the output of the 60-80hz range in approx .5 cubes of space each. It's kind of a side project to be honest and they may even wind up getting installed into my fathers car just to get him some decent base response over his factory system. Only time will tell on this one though.
The only change is that i'll be putting those earthquake "subs" into the rear doors and attempting to use them as MID base subwoofers running at about 65w each. It's going to be an experiment to say the least. This build revolves around fourthmeals build located http://www.escape-city.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=4828. The rest I have pieced together by spending LITERALLY hours perusing this forum trying to find out what the inside of this vehicle looks like when it's gut, what worked, what didn't work and what people were and were not happy with after the long run. Keep us posted on your build...OH....and :pics:
 

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iggie2299 said:
I don't mean to hijack your thread but I have a question for fourthmeal.

What are you NOT seeing in that JBL 4 channel amplifier that I'm seeing. I see HPF/LPF/BPF and xover for both front and rear channels. I am just trying to learn more about this modern processing that I used to rely upon external crossovers for.

Thank you in advance.

*edit* I just noticed that the xover only goes up to 320hz. This is entirely too low for tweets. My bad. I misread this to be 320mhz when I looked at it initially.
:thumb:
Yep, its the crossovers. You need something operating around 2-4kHz hp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I was out looking at some head units today and when I was talking to the guy at the store I mentioned how I was advised to run the tweets/front speakers off of the 4-channel amp, but then wire all 4 channels to just the 'front' speakers on the head unit, and use the 2-channel for the rear speakers. I'm a little confused as to how one would do this, as I'd end up with 4 pairs of rca cables (one pair from the sub as well as the rest of the speakers), but only 3 sets on the deck.

The guy at the store also said that tweets usually come with whats called a crossover so that is splits up the higher and lower frequencies, with the higher going to the tweeters, and lower going to the door speakers.

My question is: if I bought the speakers seperately from the tweets, will I still have this crossover? Also if I am using the crossover then wouldn't the power from the amp get split up between the tweets and the door speakers? That seems almost counter-productive.

But then again what do I know... :lol:

*EDIT*

Seems like this thread here:

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=4149

will tell me what I want to know, but I'm not exactly sure how to read this diagram...

Also these are the tweeters I was thinking of buying.

http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/prod ... Region=USA

Also where can I find out how to take apart the entire interior of the vehicle? I've been through all of the how-to articles that apply to 2001-2004 and the only useful ones I've found are how to remove the door handle and how to take out the driver's seat.

This forum needs some sticky'd threads! haha

Also (yeah I know) I found a quote from fourthmeal

"The rear speakers usually don't even need upgrading. Ideally, you should have them as rear fill, so they don't drag the soundstage backward." (viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6700)

So would I even benefit from upgrading and putting an amp to the rear speakers? If I'm not going to get a huge improvement from doing that, then I was thinking I would just save myself the headache of swapping out the speakers and putting in another amplifier for them. And if anyone has a thread that shows how to make the adapters so my 6.5s will fit in the doors please link it!!!!

It's seeming more and more like this project is going to take more than a weekend, especially with my level of knowledge :wall:
 

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stuntman said:
So I was out looking at some head units today and when I was talking to the guy at the store I mentioned how I was advised to run the tweets/front speakers off of the 4-channel amp, but then wire all 4 channels to just the 'front' speakers on the head unit, and use the 2-channel for the rear speakers. I'm a little confused as to how one would do this, as I'd end up with 4 pairs of rca cables (one pair from the sub as well as the rest of the speakers), but only 3 sets on the deck. You use what is called a splitter. It will have one female RCA in and two male RCA out.

The guy at the store also said that tweets usually come with whats called a crossover so that is splits up the higher and lower frequencies, with the higher going to the tweeters, and lower going to the door speakers. I was incorrect about your amplifiers crossover capabilities. You will need some kind of crossover. Either active or passive, to keep the bass out of your tweets and the highs out of your mids. Technically, the rep at the store is correct but also thinking in a linear (car audio applications manufacturers only) path.

My question is: if I bought the speakers seperately from the tweets, will I still have this crossover? It depends. A lot of car audio manufacturers sell tweeters that come with passive crossovers. Also if I am using the crossover then wouldn't the power from the amp get split up between the tweets and the door speakers? That seems almost counter-productive. If you use the four channel amp, a passive crossover there is a way to do it without "splitting" the power. You would wire your mids directly to the amp using it's LPF and xover. Then, wire your passive crossovers to the other channels on your amp and wire the tweets to the xovers from there.

But then again what do I know... :lol:

*EDIT*

Seems like this thread here:

viewtopic.php?f=28&t=4149

will tell me what I want to know, but I'm not exactly sure how to read this diagram...

Also these are the tweeters I was thinking of buying.

http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/prod ... Region=USA

Also where can I find out how to take apart the entire interior of the vehicle? Honestly, just look at seams, locate screws, remove screws for the panel you want to remove, pull gently to avoid ripping or tearing something hidden beneath it, rinse and repeatI've been through all of the how-to articles that apply to 2001-2004 and the only useful ones I've found are how to remove the door handle and how to take out the driver's seat.

This forum needs some sticky'd threads! haha

Also (yeah I know) I found a quote from fourthmeal

"The rear speakers usually don't even need upgrading. Ideally, you should have them as rear fill, so they don't drag the soundstage backward." (viewtopic.php?f=9&t=6700)

So would I even benefit from upgrading and putting an amp to the rear speakers? If I'm not going to get a huge improvement from doing that, then I was thinking I would just save myself the headache of swapping out the speakers and putting in another amplifier for them. And if anyone has a thread that shows how to make the adapters so my 6.5s will fit in the doors please link it!!!!I'll try to describe it. First, remove your stock speakers from the door. Next, using 3/8" to 1/2" mdf, lay your factory speaker face down on the wood. Trace the outside of the frame of the speaker onto the wood. While it's laying there, mark the mounting holes from your factory speaker. Now remove the factory speaker and find the template that came with your current After Market speaker. Position this template INSIDE the outline that you just made. Ensure that your template is not all the way up against any single side of the previous tracing. (try to center it as best you can). Trace your template. Remove the template from your MDF. Cut out the hole for the After Market speaker first. Once that is done, cut along the line you traced from your factory speaker. Drill out the mounting holes. Mount the adapter into the door panel where the factory speaker used to be. Then, mount your After Market speaker into your new adapter plate after hooking up the wiring. I hope that was descriptive enough.

It's seeming more and more like this project is going to take more than a weekend, especially with my level of knowledge :wall:
It doesn't take so much skill as it takes patience, planning and accepting that some things just don't come apart as easily as they should.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ah ok that makes a lot of sense.

Do those tweets that I linked there have a crossover that would work? It says it's an in-line crossover so I'm not sure where exactly that fits into active or passive. I would assume passive though? Maybe? =\

**EDIT**

Turns out these tweeters are impossible to order because nobody likes shipping to Canada... Guess I'll have to find some other ones. Can anyone recommend a good brand?
 

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I would never ever recommend adding tweeters like that. You also happened to pick the most irritating and ear-bleeding tweets known to mankind.

What they want you to do is bi-amp a component set btw. IMO, you already know I recommend a processor, so that stays my suggestion. If you are going to bi-amp you might as well run active.
 
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