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Stock '04 stereo system specs

1804 Views 7 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  fourthmeal
I did a search but found no info;
What are the ohm rating & crossover points of the speakers in the upgraded stock '04 system? (Not sure if they called it the "Mach" then or not, all I know is I have the pillar pods and subwoofer)
Specifically, I a looking for
a) The pillar speakers - ohm rating & frequency range & or crossover point.
b) The front door speakers -ohm rating & frequency range & or crossover point.
c) The rear door speakers -ohm rating & frequency range & or crossover point.
d) The subwoofer - Number of voice coils, ohm rating per coil, frequency range & or crossover point.

Thanks to anyone that can help.
-In advance, so no one wastes their time recomending gutting the factory system & starting over. I am in no way interested in adding amps, etc. I am near 40 w/ 2 children & have had tons of diff. equipment in my earlier years. (I still have all my vintage RF stuff but am not interested in using it. Just looking to upgrade speakers.
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Being old and with kids doesn't imply that you suddenly don't have a passion for clear audio. Middle aged guys were my best customers when I built setups, primarily because they knew what they wanted but they also had specific things they still needed their car do to (like haul cargo or kids.) For that reason I developed a taste for building stealth systems which I've become decent at designing and building.

To answer your question, I don't have a Mach system and the 08's didn't have it as an option (they mistakenly called it an "Audiophile" system instead), but generally speaking factory equipment will not have a crossover on the woofer at all. Instead they rely on the natural rolloff of the driver itself. The tweeter is crossed typically with a 6dB/oct passive capacitor, very basic. You are more than welcome to find out what rating that cap has and do the math to figure out its crossover point, but I'd have to estimate that most of them are 3-3.5k.

Ohm rating should be 4 all around, since we're talking a stock deck and nothing extravagant (there is no external amp for any speaker except the sub, which does have unique ohm ratings.)

Upgrading speakers will give you better clarity provided you deaden the doors some (so resonance doesn't overcome your new-found clarity), but your efficiency will be less on most any aftermarket speaker so be prepared for a lack of bass output and a lack of overall un-clipped volume. You don't get to have both unless you add more power.
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JoeyK said:
Thanks Fourthmeal,
I could swear the pillar speakers were producing lower than 3k they sound almost like a mid/ high driver.
You kinda got on my main issue of not wanting to go overboard. -Not taking up space. I think I am going to keep my Boston GT50 in mind when I choose speakers and upgrade them & go from there. I'm sure, knowing me that I will get the bug to install it sooner or later but there's not really a feasible way to hide that puppy that I can think of. I have a spare in the trunk floor instead of underneath with a pre '05. But maybe that will be the only peice of equipment in the way. I might possibly shoe horn in a real 8" sub in the stock encloser or I guess I could go for a stealth box. I do really like the head unit, I never have been much on aftermarket decks but thought of hooking up my KGC-4042A in between the factory head unit & the amp.
But all this, other than the speakers will take a back set to a few other things I wanna do first. Any ideas you'd have to hide a GT50 (Other than the spare tire well, were there will be a full size spare soon) I'd love to hear! (No pun intended!) :)
I got all the basics covered on sound deadening, wiring, etc. I was an installer from '88 to 'around '93 - DON"T LAUGH! :lol: It's how I acquired all my oldschool RF equipment- I bought it new in the day! (Or worked for it in trade)
Consider an aftermarket deck purely for time alignment reasons. This truck needs it. Those pillars and woofers are not equi-distant from your seating position. And the right side is much further away so that needs to be timed right as well. A processor or amps w/ a built in processor would do it just fine.

You don't need much amplifier power here, just a standard 4ch will do for a set of front speakers and a sub (if you want to run your front stage passive.) Rears need not be powered up by an amp at all...head unit power is more than sufficient if you even want to run rears. I'd stay stock there and tune them way down via fader.

I once designed a few setups in your style of trunk. They are in the forum in their own thread here. I can also design a more modest system with just one small pancake sub that could fit into your spare wheel's space. Ultimate stealth!
to add to that, consider that since your full size spare will be taller than stock height, you could build a simple false floor to match up to the new tire's height and reuse the stock trunk covering. Under that increased height you can install an amp or even two, your crossovers, and never notice them in the trunk ever.
Double-check, it should fit lengthwise across the left side (or whichever side opposite the tire.) My cad measurements from my last older Escape design showed a fair amount of room. I think I had a pair of pancake 10" subs on the left side without difficulty.
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