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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I have came to the conclusion that I want to keep my back storage space for other than a huge subwoofer box. I currently have my amp setup to run the stock sub...but I am looking to replace that sub with something that doesn't distort as much :doh:

I found this: Clicky

Anyone else got any thoughts?
 

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I say go for it. It's not too large a risk, and if you don't like it your not out nearly three hundred bucks for one of those "World Class" Speakers.

World Class = :confused:

The sales reps at CC and BB have thrown that at me lately when I have been in both places.
$.25 words with a meaning of I don't know what, are they are trying to impress me?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Should I get a 4-ohm sub or a 2-ohm sub. I have a Alpine V12 MRV-100M amp.

Specs for my amp are:

SPECIFICATIONS
Power Output: RMS Continuous Power (at 12.0V, 20 Hz to 200 Hz)
Mono into 4 ohms ................................................................................................................. 100W (0.08% THD)
Mono into 2 ohms ................................................................................................................... 150W (0.3% THD)
Power Output: RMS Continuous Power (at 14.4V, 20 Hz to 200 Hz)
Mono into 4 ohms ................................................................................................................. 150W (0.08% THD)
Mono into 2 ohms ................................................................................................................... 200W (0.3% THD)
Max. Power (at 14.4V)
Mono into 4 ohms ...................................................................................................................................... 240W
Bridged into 2 ohms .................................................................................................................................. 300W
Frequency Response.................................................................................................... 20 Hz to 200 Hz (+0, -3 dB)
Signal-to-Noise Ratio ....................................................................................... 100 dBA (referenced to rated power)
Input Sensitivity (for rated power output) ....................................................... 200mV to 4.0V (1.0V at center detent)
Input Impedance .................................................................................................................................... 10k ohms <
Speaker Impedance............................................................................................................................... 4 or 2 ohms
Active Dividing Network Frequency and Slope ........................................................ 50 to 200 Hz, 24 dB per octave
Power Requirement ....................................................................................................11 - 16VDC Negative Ground
Dimensions (W x H x D) ..................................................... 280mm x 60mm x 180mm (10-15/16" x 2-3/8" x 7-1/8")
Weight ......................................................................................................................................... 2.8 kg (6 lbs. 2 oz)

I don't know what any of this means so can someone help? :)
 

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I don't know how this fits into with what is current in audio technology. But the less impedance you have, the more power that goes to whatever device (speaker) is at the end of the wire. If it's half the impedance, it should result in twice the power being delivered to the device. If you have a 100 watt amp, and a 2 ohm speaker, it should drive like equally (performs the same) to a speaker with a 200 watt amp, and a 4 ohm speaker. Essentially, it sounds like more for your money. You do have to be carefull you don't overdrive your speaker however. If it's rated for 100 watts at 4 ohms, you do not want to hook it to a 200 watt amp. You can, but you just can not crank the volume up or else you'll first get lots of distortion, then a broken speaker, or speaker coil.

the speakers specs:

8" Shallow-Mount CompVT Subwoofer
Power Handling:
Peak: 400 watts (that's the spike in power you would see on an Oscilloscope)
RMS: 200 watts ("normal" operating max power you should send to it)
IMPP woofer cone material
Santoprene surround
Suitable for marine use
Sprialead technology
4 ohm voice coil
Steel basket allows sub to keep cool
Frequency response: 30-350000 Hz (human hearing is roughly 20 to 20,000 Hz, so you won't hear all the music that this speaker is capabile of producing)
Sensitivity: 84.8 dB

My guess is that your amp and the speaker are fairly well matched. Beware, Price and specs don't necessarily mean good sound quality. And like I said before, it's not much at risk in buying that speaker for your Escape. Try it, you might like it! :yes:
 

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You will want a 4 ohm since the woofer is only a single voice coil with a 4 ohm impedance. So your amp will run this at 150 watts or so rather then the 200w at 2ohm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for your input guys!
 

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hey scooter why dont you look into one of those mtx enclosures like surf has? It doesnt take up that much room and will give you much more airspace for a better sub so you can be louder and of better quality but the cvr shallow mount is a pretty good series from what I have heard. If the sub is a single voice coil than you will want to get a 2 ohm sub so you can get more output from your amp
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Problem is that the sub that the enclosure is not made for a 05+ Escape and it also runs about $250 :(
 

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Is the MACH woofer a 6.5" or an 8"? I can't tell because of the 2 layers of grilles covering it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
8"
 

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8"....KICK AZZ...I love small subs...they can still play fairly deep and loud with the proper enclosure, and they are tight and accurate sounding too. If my stock sub wears out, I'll replace it with an 8" Infinity or JBL...

Thanks for the clarification!
 

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i miss my old box i had, it had 2 8in subs with a 600w legacy amp, then i had a pioneer amp running my 4 6x9's. i wish i had known when i got my escape that there was a different stereo in them, i thought it was upgraded because it had a 6 disk. but all the reading i did before i bought it didn't involve researching the stereo lol. im still debating getting a mach system from the parts yard and converting mine.
 

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The OEM 8" sub and component sets in the front doors/a-pillars are very respectable for what they are. If you get a newer CD-6 HU, it will have a DSP feature, (this is what I have), and with it engaged, it brings the front stage higher, and makes the output from the tweeters more pronounced. The sub actually thumps/rumbles the interior very well, and with the windows down, you can tell there is a decent stereo in the truck if you are outside (I've had people in cars in front of me look in their review mirrors to see where the bass was/is coming from). Is it going to last? I don't know, it should for a while, especially with it being made for Ford by JBL. Will it be loud enough? Well, if you were used to 8" subs in a previous vehicle, then maybe. I know for me it is.

Best of luck finding a MACH stereo, and on the conversion!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I just got the sub in and I already put it in and sealed it up w/ black silicone. Just waiting on the silicon to dry before I try her out :)

And sorry I forgot to take pics of the install :(

I can explain exactly how to do it though...I will do a write up later.
 
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