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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I've often wondered if the claims are true. If Synthetic Oil can improve MPG by 3 to 5%. So now that I have a bit more time on my hands now. I'm going to try and find out. My plan is to hook up the Scan-Gauge and record my daily MPG for at least 30 days. Then, sometime the first week of May. Change over the Crankcase, Transfer case and Rear-end to either Mobile-1 or Royal Purple. Then drive and record the daily MPG another 30 days. I've already proved that the Escape gets lower MPG in winter. Especially in the GPH (gallons per hour) categorie.
I know this is non-scientific test because, of all the variables. (and the Scan-Gauge lacks a true Fuel Flow measurement. Just changed the oil to regular Mobile 5w-20 the first of this month. Any suggestions to get this accurate as possible? If, I can find this thread after 30 days of driving. I'll put up the MPG figure. PK
 

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I don't know how scientific it is, but I'm really interested in what you'll find out. Been wondering about synthetics...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
trib OK said:
The way Ford is with there fluids are synthetics acceptable?
Yes, but, I have heard/read that use only Group III oils in the trans and not to use Synthetic. I don't expect to see any big gains. Since, the transfer case came with full Synthetic in it already. (they say it's permanent and doesn't need replacing) But after 6 years and the workout the 4WD got this winter. I'm going to change it out anyway.
 

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I was actually thinking about switching to Synthetic oil for this oil change but I wasn't for sure if I should do it lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Scooter Scott said:
I was actually thinking about switching to Synthetic oil for this oil change but I wasn't for sure if I should do it lol
The first week of October, I put in Mobile-1. Then in the first week of January, I changed the filter and topped it off. It used about a third of a quart and sure was dark when I changed it. It had about 8.5K on it in that time. Also maybe an oil analysis would have said it was fine. I just -\/-
 

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I've been running synthetic in my Hybrid since day one. But I don't have anything to compare on whether or not it makes a difference.
Remember one thing though. From what I've heard it isn't a good idea to switch back and forth between the oils.
 

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I've been running syn oils for years (I run it in my Harley, my Hybrid Escape, my motorhome, my Wife's Jag etc etc etc). I am a big fan of syn, but I never noticed much (if any) of a fuel mileage difference.

I run 0-20 weight Mobil 1 in my Hybrid. I use Redline oil in the Harley.

~John
 

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It is not really a problem anymore switching between oils. There used to be the possibility of "additive clash" where additives in one oil would react negatively with additives from another oil, but that has been eliminated.

Along with a synthetic/mineral comparison, want to do a thicker/thinner comparison? Compare, say, 0W-30 Castrol Syntec (the German stuff), which is supposed to be one of thickest 30 weights (12.1 cst @ 100'C), to a 5W-20 on the thin side, like Lucas 5W-20 (8.0 cst @ 100'C). Both would be synthetics and the main difference would be viscosity.
 

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Squishy said:
It is not really a problem anymore switching between oils. There used to be the possibility of "additive clash" where additives in one oil would react negatively with additives from another oil, but that has been eliminated.

Along with a synthetic/mineral comparison, want to do a thicker/thinner comparison? Compare, say, 0W-30 Castrol Syntec (the German stuff), which is supposed to be one of thickest 30 weights (12.1 cst @ 100'C), to a 5W-20 on the thin side, like Lucas 5W-20 (8.0 cst @ 100'C). Both would be synthetics and the main difference would be viscosity.
Thanks for the info. I didn't know they corrected that problem.
 

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Advance Auto Parts has Pennzoil Platinum or Quaker State Q synthetics on sale for $3.98 thru 3/29.
I have run synthetics in both the F150 and Escape since I bought them and I change every 5000.
Used to prefer Mobil 1 but it is hardly ever on sale. If they can run NYC taxi cabs 200,000 miles on Mobil 1 and then tear them down and show virtually no wear on the internals, that's what sold me on synthetics.
:))
 

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Which filter? :D

You may have hit something there without even realizing it. Oil filters are important, but the differences they make are pretty negligible over the life of the engine. The only filters I would stay away from are Frams due to bad construction that leads to a greater chance of internal leaks (read: unfiltered oil) than other brands. Napa Gold (Wix) are some good filters. Personally, I do not think the filtration ability of an oil filter is as important as its anti-drainback valve construction. That is the flexible "cup" you see below the intake holes of a filter; they prevent oil from draining into the pan and helps you build up oil pressure quicker on start-up. The good ADBVs are made with silicone material, and is orange in colour. The cheaper black ones are nitrile rubber and may be subject to hardening.

Now AIR filters, or rather a lack of air filtration, is a big cause of wear in comparison with the effects of oil and oil filter choices. It is a good idea to keep the filters changed according to manufacturer specifications. One exception would be if you have a free-flowing "performance" filter like a K&N, which tends to filter better as it gets dirtier (to a point). For those, I would follow K&N or the respective manufacturer's suggestions on replacement or cleaning.
 

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Squishy said:
Which filter? :D

You may have hit something there without even realizing it. Oil filters are important, but the differences they make are pretty negligible over the life of the engine. The only filters I would stay away from are Frams due to bad construction that leads to a greater chance of internal leaks (read: unfiltered oil) than other brands. Napa Gold (Wix) are some good filters. Personally, I do not think the filtration ability of an oil filter is as important as its anti-drainback valve construction. That is the flexible "cup" you see below the intake holes of a filter; they prevent oil from draining into the pan and helps you build up oil pressure quicker on start-up. The good ADBVs are made with silicone material, and is orange in colour. The cheaper black ones are nitrile rubber and may be subject to hardening.

Now AIR filters, or rather a lack of air filtration, is a big cause of wear in comparison with the effects of oil and oil filter choices. It is a good idea to keep the filters changed according to manufacturer specifications. One exception would be if you have a free-flowing "performance" filter like a K&N, which tends to filter better as it gets dirtier (to a point). For those, I would follow K&N or the respective manufacturer's suggestions on replacement or cleaning.
i agree. i always run NAPA filters. and every time i get my tires rotated (free rotation is awesome!!) i change my oil, and blow out the filter. at 50,000km i will buy a new air filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Crazy Old Man said:
It seems to me that the filter is at least as important as the oil - any comments?
Sure is just as important. I have a Synthetic oil study tucked away in one of my folders. In it, they changed the filter at the manufacturers recommended mileage intervals and topping off. Synthetic oil may last 10/20K but filters don't. With that said. I use Motorcraft/Purolator or Wix filters. Along with my Filter-Mag...... filtermag dot com.
 

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I just bought Quaker State last night. I used it all the time in my Eclipse and it seemed to work just fine. I will try it out and see if I notice any changes.

Need to take back the Fram filter though :lol:

When I was younger that is all my dad used to change the oil was Fram filters so that is why I got it..but will take it back and get another one now. They didn't have my Motorcraft kind in at the time otherwise I would have gotten that.
 

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Regarding filters, the Fram are junk as most ppl have realised by now. My research has shown the Napa Gold series, their premium line are very good. WIX is also acknowledged as excellent.

Fords4ever said:
If they can run NYC taxi cabs 200,000 miles on Mobil 1 and then tear them down and show virtually no wear on the internals, that's what sold me on synthetics.
:))
I agree that the type/quality of oil used has a big effect on engine component longevity but another HUGE factor in this example is the fact these engines never really get shut off. Tests have shown that the majority of engine wear comes from the start and warm up period.
 

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It may also be important not to change the oil filters too prematurely, as they tend to filter smaller particles as they get dirtier. There is a theory on BITOG that the oil analyses that show a trend of higher wear on low mileage oil changes (3k) compared to higher mileage changes (7k+) is because of the oil filter being changed on the 3k intervals (instead of the initial theory that oil additives need to be activated and work better after a certain mileage). I have not yet seen anyone do that comparison while leaving the oil filter in for two 3k changes, but the theory seems to carry over from the air filter studies.
 

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Squishy said:
It may also be important not to change the oil filters too prematurely, as they tend to filter smaller particles as they get dirtier. There is a theory on BITOG that the oil analyses that show a trend of higher wear on low mileage oil changes (3k) compared to higher mileage changes (7k+) is because of the oil filter being changed on the 3k intervals (instead of the initial theory that oil additives need to be activated and work better after a certain mileage). I have not yet seen anyone do that comparison while leaving the oil filter in for two 3k changes, but the theory seems to carry over from the air filter studies.
I've never heard that before, but it seems to make sense. Would save a few bucks, too!
 
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