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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Glass opens, Tailgate won't. Switched the button/relays glass opens not tailgate. Must be actuater assembly, new one dosent work either. Tested the new one with 12v battery works just fine. Problem doesn't seem to be in the rear? Triple checked fuses and relays.

Any ideas? Tailgate actuater doesn't make any noise as if it's trying to open buy doesn't have enough power type thing. Seems like its getting no power at all.

I use this for work and need to get into trunk several times a day, this is a major headache, any ideas are greatly appreciated!
 

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Yeah this is pretty common. You need to definitely swap the actuator.

Since your door is stuck closed you need to open the glass pop off the cover and use a screwdriver to pop open the door. There are a few starbits, just unscrew and reinstall the new one. There's no adjustment available so once it's on its on correctly.
 

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Glass opens, Tailgate won't. Switched the button/relays glass opens not tailgate. Must be actuater assembly, new one dosent work either. Tested the new one with 12v battery works just fine. Problem doesn't seem to be in the rear? Triple checked fuses and relays.

Any ideas? Tailgate actuater doesn't make any noise as if it's trying to open buy doesn't have enough power type thing. Seems like its getting no power at all.

I use this for work and need to get into trunk several times a day, this is a major headache, any ideas are greatly appreciated!
You didn't put the year, but there are videos how to pop the back hatch by mostly removing the interior piece on youtube. Actuator failures are common. My '11 did this. 10 minute swap.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah this is pretty common. You need to definitely swap the actuator.

Since your door is stuck closed you need to open the glass pop off the cover and use a screwdriver to pop open the door. There are a few starbits, just unscrew and reinstall the new one. There's no adjustment available so once it's on its on correctly.
Already tried new actuator and ruled out the rear button/relay
 

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Already tried new actuator and ruled out the rear button/relay
We need the wiring diagram (I assumed you checked all fuses under the dash?). Someone here can probably post the relevant part if they see this.

I would imagine that the glass actuator and latch actuator work the same way, so in absence of a wiring diagram, I would check the plugs of both and compare. I would think that both connectors would have 12V on them all the time. If the glass does have a constant 12V and the gate doesn't, you can even try running a jumper from the hot side of the glass actuator to the hot side of the gate actuator and see if that allows the gate to pop from the gate button. If so, trace the hot back (fuse?) and see where you're losing the 12V - could be broken/cut wiring harness.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone for the replies, actuator is new and moves easily. Tailgate is only getting 6-7v, where as the glass is getting 12v. Tired switching the plugs for tailgate and glass, trunk button will open glass but glass won't open tailgate. Traced the tailgate power back to the last plug before it goes into the door jam into the body getting 6-7v there. So it seems the problem isn't in the back? Not sure where the power for the tailgate goes from there, I'd like to check voltage where ever that comes out in the front of the vehicle.

Would it be safe/reliable to snip and cap the power to the tailgate and permanently jump it off the glass wiring?
 

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Thanks everyone for the replies, actuator is new and moves easily. Tailgate is only getting 6-7v, where as the glass is getting 12v. Tired switching the plugs for tailgate and glass, trunk button will open glass but glass won't open tailgate. Traced the tailgate power back to the last plug before it goes into the door jam into the body getting 6-7v there. So it seems the problem isn't in the back? Not sure where the power for the tailgate goes from there, I'd like to check voltage where ever that comes out in the front of the vehicle.

Would it be safe/reliable to snip and cap the power to the tailgate and permanently jump it off the glass wiring?
I don't see any problem with jumping it, if nothing else, maybe you hit the button and both will open at the same time?
It almost sounds like you've got a critter infestation… Something eating through your wire partway? Chasing the harness through the body panels can be a pain, but you really should do it. If you got a critter in there, it's going to continue eating.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Critter is possible I had a mouse last summer, caught him in a mouse trap. Iv had a trap set in there ever since but who knows. I tried jumping it still no luck. Jumping it made both buttons open glass and neither the trunk. Ended up disconnecting motor on the actuator and used rebar tie around the level on the actuator, drilled a small hole in the door panel to pull it through. I'm throwing in the towel, bought a honda pilot yesterday. Thanks for the help everyone I appreciate it.
 
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