[johe]

I'm in for a automatic trans oil change soon.
Have a 2006 V6 XLT 4x4 with automatic! transmission CD4E.
Plan to do it myself, there is some HOWTOs here., but still a bit confused.

I plan to drain the transmission first thru the drain (& look for metal on the magnet)
then flush using the houses that runs thru the cooler and the trans oil pump.

Have some queries:
1. What is the "Prowler 7-6-3" method that is mentioned?
2. Is there any other method tested?
3. Do anyone have pics of witch house to remove when flush. (inlet / outlet)
4. What to remove to access the trans cooling house

 

[Squishy]

The Prowler 7-6-3 is:
- Drain 4 quarts using the drain plug (8 quarts left)
- Add 7 quarts to the dipstick tube (15 quarts left)
- Drain 6 quarts through the cooler lines (9 quarts left)
- Add 3 quarts to the dipstick tube (back to 12 quarts)

You will need to remove your driver's side wheel and the plastic splash guards to get to the cooler hoses. You want to disconnect the hose at the transmission that is closer to you (the one away from the centre of the car), which is the line for fluid returning from the cooler. Use a flat screwdriver to push the end of the hose off the fitting, as pulling on the hose works to create an even tighter fit on the barb fitting. Get a can of penetrating lubricant for the splash guard bolts, and take your time working them back and forth to keep from ripping the bolt brackets out. When the bolts go back in, dab some antiseize compound on the threads.

 

[johe]

Thanks,
How do I get the 6 qt. oil out from the cooler lines?
Do I need to have the engine running?
Or will the oil drain anyway?

Second,
The filter, is it possible to change it, ie, without tear down?

BR,
Jonny

 

[Squishy]

The engine needs to be running to pump the oil out. There is no filter, just a metal mesh screen that you can't get to. If you want a filter, you will have to do this.

 

[johe]

OK, Good thanks - will change my trans oil soon.

 

[johe]

Queries:
How will I know what oil is factory filled in my XLT 4x4, 2006 ?

I have problem finding oil that meets spec here in Sweden.
Oil A (specs.)
• GM Dexron IIIG (G-34052)
• Ford Mercon M 931004
• Allison C-4
Oil B (specs.)
• Ford Mercon (WSP-M2C-185-A)
• Ford ESP-M2C-138-CJ, ESP-M2C-166-H,
ESD-M2C-186-A, SQM-2C-9010-A, SQM-2C-9010-B
• Allison C-4
Oil C (specs.)
• GM Dextron III (F-30878)
• Mercon V (M5971001)
• Allison C4

Witch oil to go for ?

 

[Squishy]

Is Oil C made by Quaker State? If so, I would use that oil. Mercon V is a big improvement over Mercon, but in the past there have been issues with using Mercon V - some transmissions developed a shudder at 45 MPH and would eventually fail if the fluid was not replaced with Mercon. We haven't heard of any such failures for a long time now, and Ford has indirectly stated that they addressed this issue with a new Mercon V formulation. If you want to stick with Mercon, then both Oil A and Oil B will work. Better yet, if you want to stay with Mercon, find one that is rated for GM Dexron III-H.

 

[johe]

Do I have factory Mercon V in my car (no change since new) ?

 

[Squishy]

According to this TSB, your transmission (CD4E) was switched to Mercon V starting with the 2007 model year. I'm not 100% certain if this was true for European markets, but I think yours came with Mercon.

 

[johe]

According to this TSB, your transmission (CD4E) was switched to Mercon V starting with the 2007 model year. I'm not 100% certain if this was true for European markets, but I think yours came with Mercon.

Thanks I'll assume Mercon and flush my system with oil a or b above.

 

[skibender]

If your going thru the work of flushing the entire system, why don't you upgrade to Mercon V (option C)? If you don't flush the system - just drain the pan, then stay with Mercon. I recently purchased an 06 also. I'm just draining the fluid out of the pan and refilling with Mercon (factory fill). I'll do this every 3rd or 4th oil change. I think I got this idea from Squishy who is very knowledgable about these Escapes.

 

[johe]

Mercon seems to be not stock? Have to order special order it!
I previous had a Mitsubishi Pajero Sport (Monterey in US?) That required
BP Autran / MM SP3, this product was only sold in 200 liter barrels.
A very efficient for Mitsubishi to stop DIY - on transmission.

Assume the Mercon is a different story.

 

[johe]

If your going thru the work of flushing the entire system, why don't you upgrade to Mercon V (option C)? If you don't flush the system - just drain the pan, then stay with Mercon. I recently purchased an 06 also. I'm just draining the fluid out of the pan and refilling with Mercon (factory fill). I'll do this every 3rd or 4th oil change. I think I got this idea from Squishy who is very knowledgable about these Escapes.

Steve,
I was just thinking doing it the way you do. Drain and refill. In my Haynes manual, It
describe the work just as that, with an extra drain and refill after shifting to "D","P" and "R"
, before the last drain & refill.
Thank for the advice - sure makes it easier.

 

[skibender]

The key to doing a drain and refill is you stay with the same type of fluid. I think someone said that Ford switched to Mercon V in 2007 models so I'm assuming that you have Mercon and not Mercon V. My 2006 has Mercon. I don't think it's a good idea to mix them. The drain and refill method is so easy because there's no filter change to worry about.

 

[Squishy]

How long have you left the original fluid in there? If it has been more than 30,000 miles, I would do a complete exchange this first time. It would get more fresh fluid in there so you can do your drain-and-fills more effectively later, and it would be a chance to switch to Mercon V.

 

[johe]

I have 40.000 + miles with factory trans. fluid.
Asked my mechanic for a change on last service, (this years spring).
He said -"fluid id good; colour, smell, taste :yahoo: " No reason to
change!
We do have a cold climate here, I have not towed any heavy trailers, nor
too much city (stop/start) driving. The oil have never been overheated,
it shift smooth.

They charge close to 500 USD for a flush and refill, much to expensive
for me. Escape (Maverick in Sweden and Europe) is rare, this is why the
charge like they do.

Have limited access to a car lift, witch I need to do the oil change, so;
If I do drain and refill (4 qt./liter) each time, and repeat it a number of
times this winter - I hope this will do the trick.

 

[Squishy]

You don't need a lift to do the exchange; only the front left corner needs to be lifted up. If you can reach the drain plug, you can reach the cooler output hose (once you remove the wheel and splash guard). The fluid tends to look good on the dipstick because all the crud settles to the bottom of the pan. At least we don't have a fluid like Honda Z1 where the additives turn brown after just 5,000 miles - really throws off the old-school sight-smell-taste mechanics. :lol:

At 40,000 miles, if you have the time and the climate is bearable, do a full exchange or a dump-and-fill three times with short drives in between. The new formula of Mercon V can be mixed with Mercon, but Ford advised against mixing the original Mercon V. I don't know of any way to tell the difference between the formulations, and I don't even know if the specifications even changed. Just don't grab a bottle covered in dust if you want to try Mercon V. Mercon is safest for the CD4E, but Mercon V is a better fluid. The choice is yours. :shrug:

 

[johe]

Hi,
I have find trans. oil at a good price. This is really a good forum with
competent helpful people, special thanks to Squishy.
I will take the extra time and do a Prowler 7-6-3 flush and refill.

 

[skibender]

The new formula of Mercon V can be mixed with Mercon, but Ford advised against mixing the original Mercon V. I don't know of any way to tell the difference between the formulations, and I don't even know if the specifications even changed. Just don't grab a bottle covered in dust if you want to try Mercon V. Mercon is safest for the CD4E, but Mercon V is a better fluid. The choice is yours. :shrug:

I'm curious if anyone has added the new formulation to existing Mercon. I'd be interested in there were any problems as this seems to be the best route to go - if one can tell which is the new formulation.