Ford Escape Automobiles Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have gotten many question on this over time and wanted to address it once and for all. A failing trans range sensor is more common on some vehicles than others, rotted pins on F150s, climbing voltage on the CD4Es, to general bad contact issue internal to the sensor on the Taurus vehicles. They all look the same and align the same way. Ford calls out for a special tool to align them and if you don't know already I show you how to align it without the special tool so you can still do the job yourself and do it correctly right in your driveway. Hope this helps.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
acrosstheveil said:
what are the symptoms of a bad transmission range sensor? can this be accessed without pulling the transmission?
The range sensor for the escapes on the CD4E is right on top nice and easy to get to. You will usually get a code, in the case of the escapes they have a rising voltage issue and the pcm will think they are in a different gear causing shift issues or a jerking sensation and will usually throw a light.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
195 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
acrosstheveil said:
thanks. you say it is easy access...how do you access it? through the engine compartment or under the car? is it under the battery?
On the escapes up until 2008 they are on top the trans right next to the battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Have an 03 Escape that started shifting in and out of gear intermittently. After a while the check engine light came on and the O/D light started flashing. Checked code P708 - Transmission Range Sensor high input. Had code reset and came back on the next day. Bought a new Ford sensor and installed according to online instructions and advice from Ford Service Dept. Car ran perfect for about two weeks and then problem started again. Took to local transmission shop twice where they hooked up scan tool and test drove and of course the problem never showed up. Was told the transmission seemed to be working fine and that it sounded like an intermittent electrical problem. Was referred to a local auto electric shop that a friend happens to work at and he went through the wiring harness and connections and couldn't find a problem. After talking again with the transmission shop and the local Ford dealership we decided to replace the range sensor again as well as the harness that it plugs into thinking we might have gotten another bad sensor. Once again the car ran great for almost two months this time but now it's showing the same symptoms again, only now much more often (daily) to the point where I'm afraid to keep driving it. Shifts randomly in and out of gear, at times really hard, check engine and O/D light with codes pointing to TRS, and sometimes will not go into reverse. Anybody got any ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
516 Posts
Recently I had some of the same symptoms you describe on two different vehicles I repaired. One was a 1999 Ford Taurus and the other was a 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora. I thought for sure the transmission had issues somewhere. Turns out it was the VSS or vehicle speed sensor in both cases.
I am not saying this could be your problem, but perhaps a scan tool could be used to check the signal from the VSS to determine is functionality.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
308 Posts
Im suspecting a bad TR sensor on my 02 3.0 XLT Escape, but my symptom is no back up lights in reverse or any other gear for that matter. Fuses and bulbs are good, the TR was suggested as a possible problem, but I wanted some more info before I dug it out from under everything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
csm100 said:
Have an 03 Escape that started shifting in and out of gear intermittently. After a while the check engine light came on and the O/D light started flashing. Checked code P708 - Transmission Range Sensor high input. Had code reset and came back on the next day. Bought a new Ford sensor and installed according to online instructions and advice from Ford Service Dept. Car ran perfect for about two weeks and then problem started again. Took to local transmission shop twice where they hooked up scan tool and test drove and of course the problem never showed up. Was told the transmission seemed to be working fine and that it sounded like an intermittent electrical problem. Was referred to a local auto electric shop that a friend happens to work at and he went through the wiring harness and connections and couldn't find a problem. After talking again with the transmission shop and the local Ford dealership we decided to replace the range sensor again as well as the harness that it plugs into thinking we might have gotten another bad sensor. Once again the car ran great for almost two months this time but now it's showing the same symptoms again, only now much more often (daily) to the point where I'm afraid to keep driving it. Shifts randomly in and out of gear, at times really hard, check engine and O/D light with codes pointing to TRS, and sometimes will not go into reverse. Anybody got any ideas?
I know this was years ago but i have the same problem and cant find the solution, did you figure it out or just get rid of the vehicle?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Im suspecting a bad TR sensor on my 02 3.0 XLT Escape, but my symptom is no back up lights in reverse or any other gear for that matter. Fuses and bulbs are good, the TR was suggested as a possible problem, but I wanted some more info before I dug it out from under everything.
Did you ever determine what the cause was for no reverse lights?
Same thing on my 2009 Ford Escape V6 automatic.
Bulbs are good, fuse is good, relay is good.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,211 Posts
Which fuses did you check? Oddly enough it seems like the wire from the trigger side of the relay (F35, 10amp, hot in start and run) exits and re-enters the BJB. F7 which is the fuse for the actual power to the lamps. Did you check that you got ground at pin 2 of the relay when in reverse, which is the signal from the TR? Obviously you need a volt meter, an assistant, and some safety, but checking all pins on the relay could help figure out what side (control, power) is faulty.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bbakernbay

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Which fuses did you check? Oddly enough it seems like the wire from the trigger side of the relay (F35, 10amp, hot in start and run) exits and re-enters the BJB. F7 which is the fuse for the actual power to the lamps. Did you check that you got ground at pin 2 of the relay when in reverse, which is the signal from the TR? Obviously you need a volt meter, an assistant, and some safety, but checking all pins on the relay could help figure out what side (control, power) is faulty.
Thankyou for your very prompt and detailed reply.

I only checked the one 10 A fuse in Location #35 which was shown as Reverse Lamp Fuse.

White Light Product Rectangle Font
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Which fuses did you check? Oddly enough it seems like the wire from the trigger side of the relay (F35, 10amp, hot in start and run) exits and re-enters the BJB. F7 which is the fuse for the actual power to the lamps. Did you check that you got ground at pin 2 of the relay when in reverse, which is the signal from the TR? Obviously you need a volt meter, an assistant, and some safety, but checking all pins on the relay could help figure out what side (control, power) is faulty.
Here is the relevant Wiring Diagram supplied to me from another forum Along with location of Transmission Range Sensor which could also be a fault location.

I think I need to get out my circuit tester to see where the current is flowing when placed in reverse.

My other option is to hook the cigarette lighter up to a led floodlight mounted on the trailer hitch for use as needed which is infrequent.

Thanks for posting your recommendations.
i
Product Map Font Line Rectangle

Rectangle Product Font Slope Parallel
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,211 Posts
Yup, I had the wrong year, and it changed from 2008 to 2009. The owners manual shows F26 as ignition coils, so if F26 was blown it wouldn't run, and F35 you could see if the rear window defroster worked.

I modified all sizes of relays that Ford uses to be able to put them in place, and hopefully get a reading, or be able to energize it by providing power and/or ground (after my first test I realized I need to add a diode).


But since you have the wiring diagram, you can make sure you have 12v where you should, when you should, and check for a ground when put in reverse.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bbakernbay
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top