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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, to start off with i have a 2006 ford escape limited DOHC v6 with 100,000 miles. About 2 weeks ago i was driving at roughly 30 mph and all of a sudden my transmission started to slip and than completely disengaged about 30 seconds after it started. Now it will only engage for 45 seconds after i first turn it on, than it starts to slip, and at 60 seconds it completely disengages. The car has to sit for a few minutes before it will engage again. The transmission fluid level is good, no burnt smell, clear red color. Up until now there have been no transmission problems, no problems with it shifting into any gear at any speed. There are no codes reading but some emissions problem as well though i don't think they are related but if they are ive posted them here. viewtopic.php?f=8&t=9721

My first thought is that the transmission filter is clogged because of how it works when you first start it up and than starts slipping. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am very handy when it comes to cars, i just replaced the head gasket on my wifes ford taurus.
 

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It sound like it could be more internal like torque convertor or bands to me?
And I'd read here on EC that our Escapes don't really have a filter (it's just a screen instead). But I'd still try to change the fluid by dropping the pan and check the screen while you're there.
Maybe someone with a little more expierence can pipe in here with some more help.
 

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There is no pan to drop on the transmission. The screen is only accessible if you disassemble the transmission.
I would suspect that the EPC solenoid is not functioning correctly, or its passages are possibly plugged. It adjusts the pressure on the fluid used to operate all the gizzards. When you are gentle on the gas pedal, the EPC lowers 'line' pressure, and the opposite when you use more throttle. If it doesn't work, the pressure may not be developed enough to maintain engagement of the clutch pack[forward, I think] that is used for all driving forward or reverse.
I think you can remove the solenoids from the 'pan' on the front of the transmission. I know that there are screens on some solenoid operated valves in other Ford transmissions, but am not that sure on the CD4E.
If you take it in for service, all of the electronics can be exercised and determined to be functional or not by a test machine.
tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok so it turns out it was a blown transmission due to wear. It ended up being $2,350 to have it rebuilt. After doing allot of research i found out also that starting in 2008 it became standard to instal a transmission cooler on ALL ford escapes due to transmissions dying early due to heat problems so i will be installing a transmission cooler myself. I will post a build on how to install the cooler and i would highly recommend to everyone to install one, they are cheap, $50. Or you could have your transmission die early up to you.
 

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greyfox said:
Ok so it turns out it was a blown transmission due to wear.
I too would have said the solenoid were a problem or just low fluid.

But I know some shops will just rebuild vs fixing a trans with high mileage. But there very well could have been a problem not easily diagnosed based on your symptoms.

I'm just curious, how often did you service the transmission fluid for those 100K miles?
Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I had just bought the car at 101k miles on it. I bought it as is at $7,900 and its a 06 limited, so it wasn't a bad price even with having to rebuild the tranny. I know it was the tranny cause when you opened up the drain plug at the bottom there was metal in the fluid that the shop found. My bet was that the guy who sold me drained the old fluid out the bottom getting out all the metal in the tranny and put new fluid in so it would run for a little bit and he could sell it. One of the bearings had given out causing a section to rub leaving all of those metal parts which were clogging up the transmission screen so it would stop engaging after running for a minute. It was just a matter of time before a catastrophic failure and it was a full rebuild with new torque converter and everything. But like i said i am finding that it looks like that the transmissions are not adequately cooled which is why they are failing early.
 

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greyfox said:
I had just bought the car at 101k miles on it. I bought it as is at $7,900 and its a 06 limited, so it wasn't a bad price even with having to rebuild the tranny. I know it was the tranny cause when you opened up the drain plug at the bottom there was metal in the fluid that the shop found. My bet was that the guy who sold me drained the old fluid out the bottom getting out all the metal in the tranny and put new fluid in so it would run for a little bit and he could sell it. One of the bearings had given out causing a section to rub leaving all of those metal parts which were clogging up the transmission screen so it would stop engaging after running for a minute. It was just a matter of time before a catastrophic failure and it was a full rebuild with new torque converter and everything. But like i said i am finding that it looks like that the transmissions are not adequately cooled which is why they are failing early.
Well, at least now you know to stay away from that guy for car purchases.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Indeed but even with the work i still got it below blue book value so i hold no hard feeling for him.
 

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There is no pan to drop on the transmission. The screen is only accessible if you disassemble the transmission.
I would suspect that the EPC solenoid is not functioning correctly, or its passages are possibly plugged. It adjusts the pressure on the fluid used to operate all the gizzards. When you are gentle on the gas pedal, the EPC lowers 'line' pressure, and the opposite when you use more throttle. If it doesn't work, the pressure may not be developed enough to maintain engagement of the clutch pack[forward, I think] that is used for all driving forward or reverse.
I think you can remove the solenoids from the 'pan' on the front of the transmission. I know that there are screens on some solenoid operated valves in other Ford transmissions, but am not that sure on the CD4E.
If you take it in for service, all of the electronics can be exercised and determined to be functional or not by a test machine.
tom
mine is doing that exact thing no warning was at a stop sign disengaged wait a few go a little faster then repeats? expensive fix !
 

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Sorry, father not faster Reg mech in town didn't even look said tranny was blown! Seems if the tranny was blown tranny wouldn't work at all and I would have had a warning, no tranny lite no engine lite seems to think it's fine, even the computer check that the car runs when you start says 4 wd is ok !!
 

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The pump that creates working pressure to engage clutch packs and servos is driven by a ~3/8" splined shaft that goes from the center of the torque converter, straight through everything to the other end, near the LF tire. There is where the pump resides.
If the splines give up or the shaft shears, you will have no engagement, or may have 'slight' or 'weak' engagement. (that disappears quickly).
The shaft and the pressure control solenoid are the two things that come to mind causing loss of drive without any prior indication.
If you have checked the fluid level, and it is on the hash marks when all warmed up, there's not a lot that most people can do.
There are web sellers, and I don't know them at all, but did check with one called streetwise, who will guarantee and will suggest a shop, and sells supposedly at lower price... What do I know? about them? nothing 'cept they
have a web page and advertise on youtube.
There was a firm in AZ that had a good reputation, similar arrangement about shipping and installation.
If you want to fix it yourself, wander over to the 'automatic transmission' channel on youtube and watch Mr Hiram Gutierrez work on a CD4E. His demo is excellent and you can see how it fits/unfits/fits.
tom
 
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