i posted that link lol. but it doesnt have the plug diagram for the tweeters. I just want to know what each pin is.
yep, that's the old "capacitor in line with the positive lead" style. should work nicely since it'll at least be well-matched to the tweeter. it's not the audiophile approach, but combining the two is a very smart, elegant design, and unless you're spending $250 on super-high-quality component speakers, you won't notice any audible difference between the typical capacitor setup or the highly-touted "linquitz-riley" crossover (or whatever it's called).ajc6882 said:You can see it in the first and second picture (little blue and yellow thing poking through the foam That I unwrapped.
With any tweeter there is only 2 wires, + and -. But you do want to make sure there is a capacitor in the line somewhere, to cross those frequencies the tweeter can't play cleanly out of the signal.tok said:Sorry to revive an old post. But I finally found a pair of factory tweeters from an 03 Escape. I took them out and looked up this post. To my surprise, the tweeters only have 2 wires?? The connector has 4 holes but there are only 2 pins and 2 wires.
Any ideas? Should I just look for another set that are complete with 4 wires.
ajc6882 said:So I have the pictures of the factory Tweeter install on a non-factory tweeter Escape. Remember the tweeters have built in Crossovers as you can see in picture 1. First I removed the four screws that hold the panel in place( door handle, door grab handle, screw hidden under a cap, and the one on the side.) Then start removing the panel from the hinge area first. That's the best place to get behind the panel because its got a 1/8 spacer built into the panel which keeps the panel slightly away from the door. Then pull gently, I didn't break any clips. Then after removing the panel disconnect the power window and locks. By the way thought the doors were very well insulated(all the car panels are.) I removed part of the plastic weather seal to grease the tracks of the window while I was in there but you dont have to. just cut the sealant with a razor blade then heat it back up with a lighter and reseal it.
The worst part is trying to solder all the different color wires in the right way. I'm gonna give it a shot to explain how this is done. Here is a link of the stereo systems and tweeter harness plugs wiring and colors. viewtopic.php?f=26&t=910
1) Look at the Wiring Diagram.
2) Look at the Wires.
3) Look at the Wiring Diagram.
4) Then look at the wires again. Seriously.
5) So in the Drivers door(DD) and the Passenger door (PD) you'll remove the speaker and cut off the harness plug leaving about two inches attached to the plug and 3-4 inches sticking out from the main wires.
6) Now on the tweeters you'll need to cut off the harnesses, and connect two feet of 16 or 18/2 gauge Speaker wire to each wire RD-BK-YE-BK. I used 14/2 because I had it already. Don't forget to slip some heat shrink tubing over the wires before you solder or crimp them together. I also solder because I don't want any issues. Then heat the shrink tubing over the connections to prevent any shorting out or water from getting in.
7)The Tweeters have four wires. RD+,BK-,YE+,BL-. No when you cut the wire harness off its important to keep the 1st two RD--BK wires tied together and the YE --BK wires together. You dont want to mix them up.
8)Remove the old sail panel and install your new tweeter. You'll be missing the lower clip that the tweeter locks into but you can get that from ford or just leave it alone I don't think you'll need it. Then feed the tweeter wires through the door avoiding crush points from the window. I just zip tied it in a couple spots to the existing wires.
9)So connect the DD's OG/LG wire to the RD wire and the LB/WH to the RD's BK wire. Then connect the OG/LG speaker plug wire to the YE wire and the LB/WH to the YE's BK wire. MAKE SURE YOU USE SHRINK TUBING AGAIN BECAUSE OF CHANCES OF WATER!
10)So connect the PD's WH/LG wire to the RD wire and the DG/OG to the RD's BK wire. Then connect the WH/LG speaker plug wire to the YE wire and the DG/OG to the YE's BK wire. MAKE SURE YOU USE SHRINK TUBING AGAIN BECAUSE OF CHANCES OF WATER!
11)Plug the speaker in and hope nothing blows up.
These are the Tweeters
Door Panel Removed and black plastic seal exposed.
Finished connected extension wires and heat shrink sealed solder joints.
Wires fed through the door just below tweeter.
dirkomatic said:Wanted to post back... Installed everything this weekend.... That factory subwoofer is definitely weak. I was glad I ripped out as much of the harnesses I could for the sub and the "tweeters." I used Metra 72-5600 to build harnesses with the bits I had to add the tweeters. It made figuring out the wiring super easy. Taking the door panel off, wiring things up right and putting it all back together took me 45 minutes per door.
I also added an aftermarket sub (JBL GT-BASSPRO12.) Running the wiring for both subs took a little bit of time, but everything worked out and the system sounds great. The sail panel speakers make a huge difference in this vehicle.