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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
i posted that link lol. but it doesnt have the plug diagram for the tweeters. I just want to know what each pin is.
 

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Ah I see that now. Pin 1 and 2 supply the crossover, pin 3 and 4 supply your front mids. The crossover filters the audio source and splits it so that highs go to tweeters and the rest goes to your mids.
Pin 1 = White with Light Green tracer
Pin 2 = Dark Green with Orange tracer (?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
now you have me really confused. lol Its got 4 pins and they are colored black, yellow, black, red.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
i see. your talking about the main woofer wire colors. Yes your right i just need to know how to tap into those wires and what color wires connect with what.
 

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ajc6882 said:
You can see it in the first and second picture (little blue and yellow thing poking through the foam That I unwrapped.
yep, that's the old "capacitor in line with the positive lead" style. should work nicely since it'll at least be well-matched to the tweeter. it's not the audiophile approach, but combining the two is a very smart, elegant design, and unless you're spending $250 on super-high-quality component speakers, you won't notice any audible difference between the typical capacitor setup or the highly-touted "linquitz-riley" crossover (or whatever it's called).
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
So I have the pictures of the factory Tweeter install on a non-factory tweeter Escape. Remember the tweeters have built in Crossovers as you can see in picture 1. First I removed the four screws that hold the panel in place( door handle, door grab handle, screw hidden under a cap, and the one on the side.) Then start removing the panel from the hinge area first. That's the best place to get behind the panel because its got a 1/8 spacer built into the panel which keeps the panel slightly away from the door. Then pull gently, I didn't break any clips. Then after removing the panel disconnect the power window and locks. By the way thought the doors were very well insulated(all the car panels are.) I removed part of the plastic weather seal to grease the tracks of the window while I was in there but you dont have to. just cut the sealant with a razor blade then heat it back up with a lighter and reseal it.

The worst part is trying to solder all the different color wires in the right way. I'm gonna give it a shot to explain how this is done. Here is a link of the stereo systems and tweeter harness plugs wiring and colors. viewtopic.php?f=26&t=910

1) Look at the Wiring Diagram.
2) Look at the Wires.
3) Look at the Wiring Diagram.
4) Then look at the wires again. Seriously.
5) So in the Drivers door(DD) and the Passenger door (PD) you'll remove the speaker and cut off the harness plug leaving about two inches attached to the plug and 3-4 inches sticking out from the main wires.
6) Now on the tweeters you'll need to cut off the harnesses, and connect two feet of 16 or 18/2 gauge Speaker wire to each wire RD-BK-YE-BK. I used 14/2 because I had it already. Don't forget to slip some heat shrink tubing over the wires before you solder or crimp them together. I also solder because I don't want any issues. Then heat the shrink tubing over the connections to prevent any shorting out or water from getting in.
7)The Tweeters have four wires. RD+,BK-,YE+,BL-. No when you cut the wire harness off its important to keep the 1st two RD--BK wires tied together and the YE --BK wires together. You dont want to mix them up.
8)Remove the old sail panel and install your new tweeter. You'll be missing the lower clip that the tweeter locks into but you can get that from ford or just leave it alone I don't think you'll need it. Then feed the tweeter wires through the door avoiding crush points from the window. I just zip tied it in a couple spots to the existing wires.
9)So connect the DD's OG/LG wire to the RD wire and the LB/WH to the RD's BK wire. Then connect the OG/LG speaker plug wire to the YE wire and the LB/WH to the YE's BK wire. MAKE SURE YOU USE SHRINK TUBING AGAIN BECAUSE OF CHANCES OF WATER!
10)So connect the PD's WH/LG wire to the RD wire and the DG/OG to the RD's BK wire. Then connect the WH/LG speaker plug wire to the YE wire and the DG/OG to the YE's BK wire. MAKE SURE YOU USE SHRINK TUBING AGAIN BECAUSE OF CHANCES OF WATER!
11)Plug the speaker in and hope nothing blows up.

These are the Tweeters

Door Panel Removed and black plastic seal exposed.

Cut plugs

Finished connected extension wires and heat shrink sealed solder joints.

Wires fed through the door just below tweeter.
 

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Awesome pics and write-up!

I can see clearly now that the 6x8's are just the paper ones used in all of Ford's stereo's with the big plastic grille on them. Makes me wanna shop for new 6x8's for mine (well, new component sets period actually).

Thanks for the info though! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
i run my stock speakers and a pioneer head unit. the head unit has a built in equalizer and independent control of highs, mids, lows and subwoofer. Which allows me to create excellent sound from stock speakers. Everyone asks me what kind of speakers I use.
 

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Well, the stock speakers do sound decent for what they are, must sound even better with slightly more power behind them...
 

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Sorry to revive an old post. But I finally found a pair of factory tweeters from an 03 Escape. I took them out and looked up this post. To my surprise, the tweeters only have 2 wires?? The connector has 4 holes but there are only 2 pins and 2 wires.
Any ideas? Should I just look for another set that are complete with 4 wires.
 

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tok said:
Sorry to revive an old post. But I finally found a pair of factory tweeters from an 03 Escape. I took them out and looked up this post. To my surprise, the tweeters only have 2 wires?? The connector has 4 holes but there are only 2 pins and 2 wires.
Any ideas? Should I just look for another set that are complete with 4 wires.
With any tweeter there is only 2 wires, + and -. But you do want to make sure there is a capacitor in the line somewhere, to cross those frequencies the tweeter can't play cleanly out of the signal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Yes there are only two wires in and two wires out. So the wires come from the door harness, then into the + and - wires, then they feed into the crossover and separate the highs into the tweeters and the mids/lows into the door speakers. In my case my pioneer f90bt blocks the lows and only lets lows go into the subwoofer. So each speaker only gets the optimum frequencies. That lets me blast the system with out distortion. :rockon:
 

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Sorry to revive this dead thread, but just purchased a 2003 in excellent shape and I'd like to add tweeters.

It seems that all the wiring photos are no longer on photobucket; or at least I can't see them. Does someone have them somewhere else?

Also, can I use the 2005 tweeters in a 2003?

Thanks to anyone who can help!
 

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Ok, I read a bunch of what I think is right... I have pulled factory sail panels with speakers from a 2001 and I'll be adding them.

I also pulled the factory sub from the 2001. I believe I know how to hook it up, even though my XLS didn't have one... Any chance the sub wiring is there in the models without the sub? I pulled enough of the harness to make my own, but I'm hoping to make this as easy on myself as possible.

Thanks for any help.
 

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Wanted to post back... Installed everything this weekend.... That factory subwoofer is definitely weak. I was glad I ripped out as much of the harnesses I could for the sub and the "tweeters." I used Metra 72-5600 to build harnesses with the bits I had to add the tweeters. It made figuring out the wiring super easy. Taking the door panel off, wiring things up right and putting it all back together took me 45 minutes per door.

I also added an aftermarket sub (JBL GT-BASSPRO12.) Running the wiring for both subs took a little bit of time, but everything worked out and the system sounds great. The sail panel speakers make a huge difference in this vehicle.
 

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Is there ANY way you can get me these pictures??? I have looked FOREVER for these instructions and was ready to give up! Thankyou for your write up! :beer:
ajc6882 said:
So I have the pictures of the factory Tweeter install on a non-factory tweeter Escape. Remember the tweeters have built in Crossovers as you can see in picture 1. First I removed the four screws that hold the panel in place( door handle, door grab handle, screw hidden under a cap, and the one on the side.) Then start removing the panel from the hinge area first. That's the best place to get behind the panel because its got a 1/8 spacer built into the panel which keeps the panel slightly away from the door. Then pull gently, I didn't break any clips. Then after removing the panel disconnect the power window and locks. By the way thought the doors were very well insulated(all the car panels are.) I removed part of the plastic weather seal to grease the tracks of the window while I was in there but you dont have to. just cut the sealant with a razor blade then heat it back up with a lighter and reseal it.

The worst part is trying to solder all the different color wires in the right way. I'm gonna give it a shot to explain how this is done. Here is a link of the stereo systems and tweeter harness plugs wiring and colors. viewtopic.php?f=26&t=910

1) Look at the Wiring Diagram.
2) Look at the Wires.
3) Look at the Wiring Diagram.
4) Then look at the wires again. Seriously.
5) So in the Drivers door(DD) and the Passenger door (PD) you'll remove the speaker and cut off the harness plug leaving about two inches attached to the plug and 3-4 inches sticking out from the main wires.
6) Now on the tweeters you'll need to cut off the harnesses, and connect two feet of 16 or 18/2 gauge Speaker wire to each wire RD-BK-YE-BK. I used 14/2 because I had it already. Don't forget to slip some heat shrink tubing over the wires before you solder or crimp them together. I also solder because I don't want any issues. Then heat the shrink tubing over the connections to prevent any shorting out or water from getting in.
7)The Tweeters have four wires. RD+,BK-,YE+,BL-. No when you cut the wire harness off its important to keep the 1st two RD--BK wires tied together and the YE --BK wires together. You dont want to mix them up.
8)Remove the old sail panel and install your new tweeter. You'll be missing the lower clip that the tweeter locks into but you can get that from ford or just leave it alone I don't think you'll need it. Then feed the tweeter wires through the door avoiding crush points from the window. I just zip tied it in a couple spots to the existing wires.
9)So connect the DD's OG/LG wire to the RD wire and the LB/WH to the RD's BK wire. Then connect the OG/LG speaker plug wire to the YE wire and the LB/WH to the YE's BK wire. MAKE SURE YOU USE SHRINK TUBING AGAIN BECAUSE OF CHANCES OF WATER!
10)So connect the PD's WH/LG wire to the RD wire and the DG/OG to the RD's BK wire. Then connect the WH/LG speaker plug wire to the YE wire and the DG/OG to the YE's BK wire. MAKE SURE YOU USE SHRINK TUBING AGAIN BECAUSE OF CHANCES OF WATER!
11)Plug the speaker in and hope nothing blows up.

These are the Tweeters

Door Panel Removed and black plastic seal exposed.

Cut plugs

Finished connected extension wires and heat shrink sealed solder joints.

Wires fed through the door just below tweeter.
 

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Thanks for bringing this old thread back up. I've had a set for a couple of years I wanted to install but didn't know how. Any chance you have pics to share? :peace:
dirkomatic said:
Wanted to post back... Installed everything this weekend.... That factory subwoofer is definitely weak. I was glad I ripped out as much of the harnesses I could for the sub and the "tweeters." I used Metra 72-5600 to build harnesses with the bits I had to add the tweeters. It made figuring out the wiring super easy. Taking the door panel off, wiring things up right and putting it all back together took me 45 minutes per door.

I also added an aftermarket sub (JBL GT-BASSPRO12.) Running the wiring for both subs took a little bit of time, but everything worked out and the system sounds great. The sail panel speakers make a huge difference in this vehicle.
 

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You should really consider using a nicer set of component speakers. The factory 2 5/16" tweeters, and 5x7s are really crap. I installed the focal ps165v1 set in mine, but it takes a little bit of craftsmanship. I got a sheet of 1/4" abs off of amazon and made adapters for the door and sail panels. They look like crap and I cut them with a jigsaw, but they sound awesome and theres no rattles. Im using an alpine pdx-v9 amp and crossing them over at 4kHz. If you dont want to get crafty with adapters you can look into a 2.5" speaker that has a frequency response up to 17kHz and basically any 5x7 mid. However, once you do the adapters youll never have to do it again and you can install any component set in them.

As for the factory subwoofer, I tried that route out too. The sub is underpowered and takes a special output from the factory headunit to run the factory amp. Theres 2 versions of the sub a 6.75" and 8" version. The 8" rear beauty panel wont fit or color match the earlier escapes. I have. Oth versions of the box, and factory subs available if anyone is interested, but the subs arent that great and would recommend using a kicker sub for either box. They are shallow enough to fit and can take quite a bit more power than the factory sub. I had a kicker 6.75" sub in the factory box and sent 150wrms to it from my 500wrms amp and it bottoms out at 1/2 volume on the head unit. Ive upgraded to a decent sub rated at 450wrms, but will be building a custom box to fit behind the front passenger seat.
 
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